Re: Aluminess Sliders(pics)
Three mounts evenly spaced down the rail.RustyPW wrote:How many places along the body does the rail mount to?
Well hot damn Russ!! Don't ya recognize him? LOLRustyPW wrote:How many places along the body does the rail mount to?
It must have been his PW we saw in Moab while we got some food at Pasta Jay's!!! Ya circled the block twice. Got the rooftop tent an all. It was a Sunday.
That was probably when I was searching for my wife and daughter that were out shopping. We get down there 4 or 5 times a year...nice to be so close.Pit Slave wrote:Well hot damn Russ!! Don't ya recognize him? LOLRustyPW wrote:How many places along the body does the rail mount to?
Pit Slave wrote:Well hot damn Russ!! Don't ya recognize him? LOLRustyPW wrote:How many places along the body does the rail mount to?
They had a set cut that just needed welding in steel so I went that way.Juday wrote:Sweet! Did you get the steel, or chromoly versions?
From my own experience, I think they should probably work fine - my steps attach to the body in a similar fashion (but are much less heavy-duty), and they've held up the entire weight of the truck on more than a few occasions. The steps are bent all to heck, but the body attachment points are just fine. That being said, I probably wouldn't use them as a jacking point or let the weight of the truck fall on them with too much force...those are the things that I'd want the factory rock rails for.Pennies wrote:As far as strength goes I think they will be perfect for the wheeling that I do. I live 3 hours from Moab and have family there so I do several trips each year that include moderate rock crawling, but nothing extreme. The rest of my time is spent wandering and finding new places to see. I'll get some real world testing in this weekend.
Good deal. I think I'll probably get the exact same setup you have when it comes time to get mine. I just can't see paying twice the price for the chromoly versions. Unless they're twice as good?.....I don't know.Pennies wrote:They had a set cut that just needed welding in steel so I went that way.Juday wrote:Sweet! Did you get the steel, or chromoly versions?
After years of carrying a HiLift and never actually using it, I gave it to a friend who thought it looked cool on his FJ. I have had my son and I(about 400lbs) stand on the rail and bounce with no noticeable deflection though. Not the same kind of weight, but I was happy.Cactus Red wrote:Have you tried a HiLift on them yet? I'm curious to see if they deflect at all. They sure look nice - wish they could tie them back to the frame or a body mount tho. My modified stock rails deflect slightly with the weight of the truck on them. The additional 5.50" of the step adds a lot of leverage.
Though after more thought, I think I'll get the basic version without the extra rail coming off. If you have any updated pictures, be sure to throw those up on here too! 
I have had a set of N-Fabs on my 3G for about five years. The N-Fabs replaced a set of Smitty-Bilts that were rusting out after less than two years on the truck. When I mounted the N-Fabs, I painted all the holes after drilling, used all stainless steel fasteners, and put a glob of clear RTV silicone in each hole before I bolted things up. Not a spec of rust anywhere, but we don't get salted roads in So Cal.I have a set of N Fabs that mount to the pinch points that are rusting out.
DO IT!!Ducky's Dad wrote:I think I might drive the PW to Aluminess with him and see about getting some rails built for the PW.
Ducky's Dad wrote:I have had a set of N-Fabs on my 3G for about five years. The N-Fabs replaced a set of Smitty-Bilts that were rusting out after less than two years on the truck. When I mounted the N-Fabs, I painted all the holes after drilling, used all stainless steel fasteners, and put a glob of clear RTV silicone in each hole before I bolted things up. Not a spec of rust anywhere, but we don't get salted roads in So Cal.I have a set of N Fabs that mount to the pinch points that are rusting out.
A friend just ordered a Tundra rear bumper from Aluminess. I think I might drive the PW to Aluminess with him and see about getting some rails built for the PW.
Edit: Need to put in a good word for 4WP at their Compton store. They honored the "lifetime" warranty on the rusty Smittybilts, and swapped me the N-Fabs at no charge. Made me a happy camper, and they deserve recognition.
Next time you have to touch-up the rust spots, try a thorough cleaning of the rusty areas (sandpaper or wire brush/wire wheel), then coat those areas with a rust conversion product like POR-15. This and other similar products are available for brush and rattle-can application and convert any remaining rust to an inert oxide that you can then paint over. There are various brands, including a Rust-O-Leum rust converter that I have seen at WalMart and Home Depot. Auto body supplies also sell this kind of stuff. I have used it with pretty good results, but make sure it is thoroughly dried before you paint over it.My N Fabs are not rusting at the mounts; they are rusting at the steps ( I have the three step model), as well as the undersides.
