Headers

[Ak68w]

Hey guys, I’ve browsed the forum and others on this and there seems to be no concise definitive answer on what the best headers for the 5.7 is. Mine is a 12’ and I’m looking for a relativeliey cheap option 500$ ish or less that will bolt up to the existing exhaust. I’m not opposed to a long tube setup where the cat is removed as I have a shop that can tune. Also, I noticed some headers like the Jan will give you an option for square or round ports, is there one that must be used, or is it a preference? If it’s a preference, any opinions on which is better?
Thanks for the feedback.

[OffroadTreks]

I don't think under $500 and "BEST" are going to work out together.

The JBA Stainless is $549.00 at best and those are shorties. I wouldn't bother with shorties. American Racing Long Tubes is all I'd look at.

[thedriver21]

I went with the JBA shorty ceramic headers due to having to smog the truck in CA. With a tune you can tell a difference. Im sure long tubes would be even better but I find my headers were worth the money with a tune.

[DamageWagon]

I went with the JBA shorty ceramic headers due to having to smog the truck in CA. With a tune you can tell a difference. Im sure long tubes would be even better but I find my headers were worth the money with a tune.

Did you have to modify the headers to fit? Any hammer work?

[jakestopp244]

i got a set of jba long tubes for cheap for my 12 and thought id just have someone make a ypipe and they didnt come close to fitting and if i remeber right their website claimed they worked on 2500s and i blew up there email and got told i could get a discount on shorties, long story short there a junk company save the hassle and do american racing headers if ur gunna do any. there worth the money.

[thedriver21]

I went with the JBA shorty ceramic headers due to having to smog the truck in CA. With a tune you can tell a difference. Im sure long tubes would be even better but I find my headers were worth the money with a tune.

Did you have to modify the headers to fit? Any hammer work?

Had to tap a tiny dent in the passenger side but nothing crazy. I also used the stage 8 bolts so I don’t have to worry about torquing them every few months. Other than that they bolted right in

[DamageWagon]

Nice, I’ve considered them but JBA said they don’t fit. The only ones I found that for sure were good to go are the ARH set but for $2k with cats plus required tune that’s a big chunk of coin.

[Gypsysmith]

Anybody tried TTI? They are the poo on vintage mopars. Their website is under construction, but I remember them showing products for hemi rams.

[RustyPW]

Anybody tried TTI? They are the poo on vintage mopars. Their website is under construction, but I remember them showing products for hemi rams.

I been looking at them for years. At one time, you could clink on the link and go see the headers and y pipes. About a year ago. They changed their website. And you couldn't clink on the link anymore. It would be best if you gave them a call to find out for sure.

[RustyPW]

i got a set of jba long tubes for cheap for my 12 and thought id just have someone make a ypipe and they didnt come close to fitting and if i remeber right their website claimed they worked on 2500s and i blew up there email and got told i could get a discount on shorties, long story short there a junk company save the hassle and do american racing headers if ur gunna do any. there worth the money.

Had JBA's on my 99 Ram. They didn't fit right then. Had to bent the y pipe to fit.

[Gypsysmith]

[/quote]
I been looking at them for years. At one time, you could clink on the link and go see the headers and y pipes. About a year ago. They changed their website. And you couldn't clink on the link anymore. It would be best if you gave them a call to find out for sure.
[/quote]

I too have been waiting years for the want to somehow turn into a need on my 2WD Ram. My PW is still relatively new to me, and I still have a good long list of stuff to improve behind the engine. It’s gonna be a while. Satisfying my curiosity is dangerous.

[06wagon]

I ran TTI long tubes on my 2006. I called them about fitment, since I swapped to a 6.1 SRT motor and running the a G56. The headers fit nicely, no mods or fitment issues. They also put the correct header flange on since it was a 6.1 motor. Their work is extremely nice!!!! Well worth the money

[Schlad56]

I have jba shorty headers on my 2006 jba headers fit no problem. I thought they didn’t fit when I tried to install them a common occurrence is that it’s not that the headers don’t fit it’s that your engine mount/s are shot this is common cuz at the time no one on earth had them and mopar couldn’t get them fast enough payed 225 for them from a dick in Seattle think there normal under 50 truck was torn apart already and I was desperate to have my vehicle back running so they got slightly more expensive

[Ak68w]

Yeah don’t think I need a 2000$ system plus install. I’m replacing the stock manifolds simply to eliminate the leaks so my gas mileage comes back and my plugs don’t get loaded with fuel, and so I can use the remote start feature.

Got on summit and added the -2 finish shorties, two new OEM gaskets, and the stage 8 fasteners. Subtotal 745.39$ before shipping which I think will be free over 99$. I’ll sit on it for a day or two maybe. Summit was substantially cheaper than Jegs. Not sure if anyone knows anywhere else to get them at a better price online. The-2 series headers themselves are 639.05$

Thanks for everyone’s input on this!

[Allgonoshow]

I ran TTI long tubes on my 2006. I called them about fitment, since I swapped to a 6.1 SRT motor and running the a G56. The headers fit nicely, no mods or fitment issues. They also put the correct header flange on since it was a 6.1 motor. Their work is extremely nice!!!! Well worth the money

You swapped a SRT 6.1 mated to a G56 into an 06 power wagon??
I'm trying to figure out the best bang for buck to get more power into my 2013 pw since the 5.7 valvetrain ate itself as they do... I really don't want to fix or throw a crate 5.7 back in if it's only going to last 100k again. If I had the money right now I'd throw a helephant with a manual trans in it. That's gonna happen some day though.

[SeppW]

I don't think under $500 and "BEST" are going to work out together.

The JBA Stainless is $549.00 at best and those are shorties. I wouldn't bother with shorties. American Racing Long Tubes is all I'd look at.

ARH seconded.

[06wagon]

I ran TTI long tubes on my 2006. I called them about fitment, since I swapped to a 6.1 SRT motor and running the a G56. The headers fit nicely, no mods or fitment issues. They also put the correct header flange on since it was a 6.1 motor. Their work is extremely nice!!!! Well worth the money

You swapped a SRT 6.1 mated to a G56 into an 06 power wagon??
I'm trying to figure out the best bang for buck to get more power into my 2013 pw since the 5.7 valvetrain ate itself as they do... I really don't want to fix or throw a crate 5.7 back in if it's only going to last 100k again. If I had the money right now I'd throw a helephant with a manual trans in it. That's gonna happen some day though.

Yea. I used it for truck/sled pulls. So motor made around that 650 hp on pump gas. It was an expensive build to due to stay in the "rules". If I had to do it again.... I would've went turbos

[Ak68w]

Anyone ever tried pace setters?

https://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-m ... 9289070988

[Ak68w]

So, the above mentioned paces setters are for 2wd only. I ended up going with the JBA’s after speaking with a guy named Dustin there at JBA. He said that they quit marketing them for these pickups because every once in a while they would get someone calling up with fitment problems on the passenger side. The 1961S-2JT or -JS will fit the truck, and some go right in, and some have issues. Of course mine had issues but I told them up front if they needed to tap a dent in the tube on the passenger side to go ahead and do it. That’s what they did, but the clearance along about an 8” section between the header and the manifold is about 1/8 - 1/16. Very very tight. When I come to a stop sometimes they will rattle on the frame. When I take it to my buddies next week for the tune, I’m going to see what he thinks about shimming the engine mounts, and or replacing them. Curious if anyone has tackled this? I’ll try to post some pics tomorrow.

All in all it did fix my leak but I still have some sort of ticking sound under acceleration. I’m assuming at this point it’s some sort of valve train noise I’ll have to live with.

[ScubaSteve]

Slip joints tend to leak a bit sometimes if you don't really crank down on the band clamp. Also, headers will allow more valve noise and exhaust pulse noises to pass through due to the thinner material than the manifold, so you will have some noisiness to deal with.

As far as shimming engine mounts and all that garbage to make headers fit, I wouldn't do it. I would modify the header before I ever started tinkering with engine placement.