4th Gens: OEM AUX Switch Panel

[myoung84]

This info is floating around on here somewhere, but I thought since we have some new 4th gen members that I'll post it again for them to see. This can be installed in the lower part of the dash under the AC controls and replaces the blank insert. If you have a Laramie, that spot is already occupied by the heated seat buttons and you can't install it there. This is also only for 10-12 trucks since the dash changed for 2013. Older and newer trucks along with the Laramies can certainly install this as well but you'll have to figure out somewhere else to mount it.

Part numbers for the switch panel and pigtail wiring harness are below along with links to the online store where I purchased my parts. The wire harness is required.

5164912AC - Switch Panel
68057288AA - Pigtail Wiring

http://www.factorymoparparts.com/5164912ac.html
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/68057288aa.html

The wire harness will come with the plastic plug and 8 loose wires with metal ends crimped on. You will need to insert 7 of the 8 wires into the plug. Take note of the missing pin in the switch panel and don’t put a wire in that hole. Using the wiring diagram below, start wiring the panel once installed in the dash. Pins 1 and 7 are the 12V inputs. These should both go to a switched 12V source. You can also wire one or both wires to a constant 12V source and this would allow the switches to be operational when the truck is off. I would recommend not doing this since you would have the potential to drain the battery if you leave something on. Pin 2 will go to ground. Finally, pins 3-6 are the ground output wires for buttons 1-4. These will go to one side of the coil on a relay.



All wiring past this point will depend on what you are powering and will vary on each installation. The most common scenario such as lights would require a single relay per button. One of the output wires from the switch panel would go to the coil on the relay, either pin 85 or 86, doesn’t matter. The other side of the coil will go to a 12V source. This can be a constant source directly from the battery or you can jumper off pins 1 and 7 from the switch panel if you are installing the relays inside the truck. For my lights, I ran the output wire from the switch panel under the hood and mounted my relays near the battery.

You have the option of switching the 12V side or the ground side of your lights. I normally switch the 12V side. You would need to run the appropriate size wire from the battery, through a fuse, and to pin 87 on the relay. I will normally make a jumper wire from this pin to the 12V side of the coil on the relay, there’s no need to have separate wires ran. Then run the same size wire from pin 30 to the 12V side of your lights or other load. The ground side of you lights will go directly to ground. If you choose to switch the ground side, you will run your ground wire through pins 87 and 30 and connect the 12V side of your lights directly to the battery, through a fuse. You’ll also need to run a separate 12V wire to the coil of the relay if you choose this method.

Here's a wiring diagram I created with the most common installation. If you have something else you're trying to switch or operate let me know and we'll see if it's possible. I have my LED light bar, rear LED lights, Front Camera, and Locker Bypass on my switches. I'll post the Locker Bypass instructions in the next post.

[myoung84]

Power Wagon Locker Bypass

Rather than have an ON-OFF-ON switch (SPDT) you can use a standard SPDT relay and one of the buttons. I’m not going to reinvent the wheel on the wiring of the locker bypass itself, the link to the instructions on hard wiring the bypass is on the Power Wagon Registry site is below. You can use the same instructions if you’re lucky enough to find a plug and play locker bypass harness. Rather than wire in the switch, use the following instructions to wire in the relay.

The wire colors from the PW Registry instructions didn’t match up on my truck, but it's the same process. I think the colors on mine were blue and white, with the blue one being the wire you cut. I have modified diagram below from the link on the PWR to show the instructions for using a relay instead of a switch. Run the wire from the plug side (that plugs into the transfer case) to pin 87a, then the other side of this wire to pin 30. Then splice in to the second wire on the t-case harness, wire in the resistor, and run to pin 87 on the relay. Wire the coil side of the relay they same way as above. Now, when you hit the AUX button, the relay will trigger, and the truck will think it’s in 4-low and allow the lockers to work. As long as you wired the 12V input in the switch panel to a switched source, the button will turn off each time the truck is turned off and the bypass will go back to normal mode.

Also note that trucks built after January 2012 have a new Borg Warner transfer case and the resistance values have changed. I don’t know what these new values are, but once you find out the value for 4L, then the instructions above will still work.

For guys that aren't using the OEM panel, you can still use the relay wiring instructions and wire up a standard ON-OFF switch. One side of the switch would go to ground and the other would go to relay coil in lieu of the wire from the OEM panel.

http://powerwagonregistry.org/locker_bypass.php

[Juday]

Thanks for posting this. Someday, I'll get around to installing mine. It's only sat on the workbench for about 6 months now.....

[myoung84]

LOL. It's one of my favorite mods...

[Prairidawg]

Awesome! Been wondering about this, thanks!