Hey guys here is a brief write up on how to change your front wheel bearings. Really it is fairly simple but I know some people are still a little unsure how to do it. So here is a brief demonstration.
Tools you need
Basic socket set.
Needle nose pliers
Breaker bar
Long steel spike (or something long and strong but no more than 1 1/4" thick
6-8" 3 jaw puller
1 3/4" socket and ratchet or bar for it
Hammer
New wheel bearing (obviously)
During this process you have the chance to change the ujoint like I did as mine was ceasing up badly.
Also this is a very good time to grease aftermarket ball joints if you have them
Get yourself ready to go. I'm not going to show you how to take the wheel off
How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing
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nts007
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How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing
- Attachments
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- Get your stuff ready
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- Using the same socket that you used to remove your wheel lug nuts, remove the brake caliper carrier bracket. Don't bother taking the caliper off the bracket. Just remove the bracket
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- Unhook the abs line from the inside fender
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- A milk crate is the perfect height to store the caliper out of the way
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- Pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut on the hub then Use the 1 3/4 socket to break the nut free. It will spin off fairly easy once broken. Use a long bar to keep the hub from turning
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- This stuff works awesome if you need it ever
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- Next remove these 4 bolts from the backside of the knuckle. These 4 bolts hold the unit bearing on. Don't lose Em. Also don't skip this step and start pulling the bearing. They are 18mm socket
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- Using the 3jaw pry the hub off the spline. This won't hurt anything. Once it pops the rust it will come off easy
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- Alright so now you are at this point. Here you can choose to install the new bearing in the reverse order of removal or continue on to the ujoint
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- In my case out it comes to remove the ujoint
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- I always bag the splines to keep Em clean. Anything works
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- This is a good time to grease things so pull out your magic great kit and find the needle grease end. Not the actually needle grease injector just one like this
Last edited by nts007 on Fri Aug 21, 2015 9:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more
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nts007
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Re: How to change a A Frong Wheel Bearing
Continued
- Attachments
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- Using this little guy grease that pesky lower dynatrac ball joint
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- There. All greased. Got about 3 shots in it
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- I replaced the ujoint with a new spicer. This is far more difficult than changing a wheel bearing. Someone else can post how to
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- Install axle shaft and then slide on new wheel bearing. Now thread all 4 hub bolts and alternating them tighten the hub into the knuckle
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- Tighten down the hub but and replace cotter pin
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- And there you go. After reinstalling brake caliper and the abs line. DONT forget the abs line!!
You have finished your wheel bearing. Total time for the change not including the greasing or the ujoint is 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Anyone can do it
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more
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verdesardog
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Re: How to change a A Frong Wheel Bearing
you did all that work but didn't quite finish it 
2006 Big Horn 2500 Ram CTD. IMAGINE ALL THE PEOPLE LIVING LIFE IN PEACE
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nts007
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- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:01 pm
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Re: How to change a A Frong Wheel Bearing
No I finished. The unit bearings only cost $330 each. They last 80 to 130k km. sometimes longer.i can't justify the cost of a free spin kit
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more
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TwinStick
Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing
Wow, just looked em up on rock auto for my truck. Timken HA590166, #5179955AA, $131.79 each. Maybe the diesels are different ???
Good write up. Thanks. This will help people out.
Good write up. Thanks. This will help people out.
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nts007
- 2000_Posts
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- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:01 pm
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Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing
They are listed here at $600. Rock auto is always cheap but add exchange and shipping and you may save $20 at the end of it. Plus you wait for a week or 2. This is walk in walk out. I'm ok with it. Free spin kit would cost me $3000 at least.TwinStick wrote:Wow, just looked em up on rock auto for my truck. Timken HA590166, #5179955AA, $131.79 each. Maybe the diesels are different ???
Good write up. Thanks. This will help people out.
Also I have 09 pw axles. The ones for my original 08 axles were $290 each. For the 05 it's $240. The 09 hub is bigger than the 08
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more
Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing
Thanks for the nice write up...I have new Timkens that I haven't installed yet. I paid $140.99 ea. from Rock Auto, but that was 2 years ago.
Ben CW3 2/10th AIR CAV FT ORD CA. (retired)
2006 Power Wagon-6spd, rear air bags, Diff Guards:Carli F. RockCrusher R., matching rim for spare tire, removed back seat for storage----I own the following: 2005 Hallmark pop-top Camper---1970 Scout 800 4x4 w/232ci 6cyl 4spd---2006 Yamaha XT225 Dual Sport---Pictures @ https://www.flickr.com/photos/powerwagon/collections
2006 Power Wagon-6spd, rear air bags, Diff Guards:Carli F. RockCrusher R., matching rim for spare tire, removed back seat for storage----I own the following: 2005 Hallmark pop-top Camper---1970 Scout 800 4x4 w/232ci 6cyl 4spd---2006 Yamaha XT225 Dual Sport---Pictures @ https://www.flickr.com/photos/powerwagon/collections
Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing
You really need to read and adhere to the torque spec on the Big nut and cotter pin. Just tight will not do it, and you will be back in there again.
2006 Power Wagon
Line X – 2in Front Leveler (Pro Comp), Hard wired Lockers, Front Fog Lights,
35in KM2’s, De-Politicized Winch (No LVI, Etc)
5th Wheel hitch
1980 CJ7 – Rino Lined, 33x12.50 Pro Comp AMC 360ci
1974 CJ7 – AMC 304ci, Beaten but fun “Brush Buggy”
Kaw Brute 650 – One Bad 4x4, winch, 12 lights
Line X – 2in Front Leveler (Pro Comp), Hard wired Lockers, Front Fog Lights,
35in KM2’s, De-Politicized Winch (No LVI, Etc)
5th Wheel hitch
1980 CJ7 – Rino Lined, 33x12.50 Pro Comp AMC 360ci
1974 CJ7 – AMC 304ci, Beaten but fun “Brush Buggy”
Kaw Brute 650 – One Bad 4x4, winch, 12 lights
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nts007
- 2000_Posts
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- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:01 pm
- Model Year: 2008
- Location: Sask, Canada, Earth
Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing
Yes I will. In 80-150k km.
In all truthfulness do you really believe that the dodge techs ever pay attention to torque specs? I know they don't. Only on engine and suspension critical areas. I have many friends that are and have been Chrysler mechanics. On a wheel bearing they just mark the old and realign to the mark when tightening.
In this case the nut is just holding the spline shaft to the hub. The hub is bolted to the knuckle. The spline axle shaft is only connected to the hub and it free floats into the diff. So yes. Tight is tight. Not broke tight but not gonna move tight. The nut just holds the axle shaft in place and is not a support or preload like a Dana 60. It's a unit bearing. Remove the nut and shaft and you can still drive
In all truthfulness do you really believe that the dodge techs ever pay attention to torque specs? I know they don't. Only on engine and suspension critical areas. I have many friends that are and have been Chrysler mechanics. On a wheel bearing they just mark the old and realign to the mark when tightening.
In this case the nut is just holding the spline shaft to the hub. The hub is bolted to the knuckle. The spline axle shaft is only connected to the hub and it free floats into the diff. So yes. Tight is tight. Not broke tight but not gonna move tight. The nut just holds the axle shaft in place and is not a support or preload like a Dana 60. It's a unit bearing. Remove the nut and shaft and you can still drive
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more