Broken exhaust manifold studs

autogateman · Post by **autogateman** » Sun Jul 19, 2015 11:31 pm

How big of a job is it to drill out broken manifold studs? i dropped my truck off tuesday so it could be fixed while I was on vacation and they called and said they cant do it without pulling the heads, which I know is bull. So now Im back in town, needing to go back to work and my truck sounds like crap! Was really needing this fixed for when I got back. Anywho, if I take off tomorrow (Monday) to fix it, how hard of a job is this?

thanks,
rod

Ducky's Dad · Post by **Ducky's Dad** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 12:08 am

I don't know because I have not fixed mine yet. Found the problem a couple weeks ago. Looks like a manifold stud and a downtube flange stud on mine. Does look like a major pain, but I don't think the heads have to come off.

Post by **Cactus Red** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 12:45 am

It took the tech at the dealer roughly 10 hours the last time. They remove the inner fender for access, and a bunch of other crap as well. The head doesn't have to be removed. Both times it's been in required two days.

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azracer · Post by **azracer** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 12:48 am

Cactus Red wrote:It took the tech at the dealer roughly 10 hours the last time. They remove the inner fender for access, and a bunch of other crap as well. The head doesn't have to be removed. Both times it's been in required two days.

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Mine was done in less than a day but mine was the passenger side manifold.

.

Will · Post by **Will** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:00 am

How many miles Rod? Mine did it on the passenger side, dropped it off at 7:30am and picked it up at lunchtime. Like Cactus said, the best way is remove tire and inner fender well for access. Supposedly it's not really that hard, the ones that break off come out fairly easily once the manifold is removed. Good luck.

verdesardog · Post by **verdesardog** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:21 am

my '94 Dakota V6 was always breaking ex man studs also, I wonder if using a header gasket between the manifold and head would give the studs just enough cushion to not break any more studs???

Will · Post by **Will** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:17 am

I knew immediately when mine did it. Hit a deep hole of water and shocked them... only happened that one time, would probably do it again in the same scenario.

ACRucrazy · Post by **ACRucrazy** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:31 am

ARP has to make some studs for these engines no?

coder · Post by **coder** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 12:55 pm

My dealer did mine in 1/2 day charged me about 4 hours labor plus parts. Form what they told me they did not remove the heads. The dealer I go to has very knowledgeable technicians and works on a lot of trucks.

ACRucrazy · Post by **ACRucrazy** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 1:10 pm

phpBB [video]

Clickable link for Tapatalk

Post by **Cactus Red** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 1:36 pm

Will wrote:How many miles Rod? Mine did it on the passenger side, dropped it off at 7:30am and picked it up at lunchtime. Like Cactus said, the best way is remove tire and inner fender well for access. Supposedly it's not really that hard, the ones that break off come out fairly easily once the manifold is removed. Good luck.

Unless it has to be drilled out and an insert installed... Both on mine required that.

Dennis Miller "You can't order black coffee anymore. It's un-creamed..."

Ducky's Dad · Post by **Ducky's Dad** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 2:47 pm

Great video, thanks for posting. Glad I watched it before I started my repair. Now, I'm just going to pay somebody. I don't need the grief, in the driveway, in the sun, without a lift, yada, yada, yada. Feeling like I dodged (pun intended) a bullet.

And, if this problem is so common and well documented, why hasn't Chrysler corrected it? Can't be that expensive to use better studs or gaskets.

TwinStick · Post by **TwinStick** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:42 pm

They have not fixed it because it generates a LOT of revenue for them. $85+ an hour.

autogateman · Post by **autogateman** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 12:09 am

Well , I decided to drop it off tonight at a shop in baton rouge thats very well known for their diesel repair and heavy truck work. They have about 15 mechanics and guaranteed they could start first thing in the am so that even if they had to pull the head I should still get it back tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Will, it has 58000 miles on it.

Will · Post by **Will** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:49 am

autogateman wrote:Well , I decided to drop it off tonight at a shop in baton rouge thats very well known for their diesel repair and heavy truck work. They have about 15 mechanics and guaranteed they could start first thing in the am so that even if they had to pull the head I should still get it back tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Will, it has 58000 miles on it.

Dang, you're 8,000 miles over the emissions warranty. Do you have other warranty that'll cover it?

Will · Post by **Will** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:49 am

Cactus Red wrote:
Will wrote:How many miles Rod? Mine did it on the passenger side, dropped it off at 7:30am and picked it up at lunchtime. Like Cactus said, the best way is remove tire and inner fender well for access. Supposedly it's not really that hard, the ones that break off come out fairly easily once the manifold is removed. Good luck.
Unless it has to be drilled out and an insert installed... Both on mine required that.

Dennis Miller "You can't order black coffee anymore. It's un-creamed..."

I was trying to be optimistic

PWDan · Post by **PWDan** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:58 am

Good call. I've watched my friends do a bunch of Fords at his shop and the aluminum heads are tricky. I know he uses a reverse drill bit and he said a lot of the time the stud will back out while drilling it but he said he usually charges between $500-$600 per side depending how many studs are broke. I've also seen the bit run off center and into the aluminum head which is a problem. I've done a few on iron head engines but even those can get screwed up pretty easy if you're not dead center when ya start drilling. I just think that's a job better left to somebody that's had lots of practice on other peoples trucks before ours.

autogateman · Post by **autogateman** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:07 pm

Will wrote:
autogateman wrote:Well , I decided to drop it off tonight at a shop in baton rouge thats very well known for their diesel repair and heavy truck work. They have about 15 mechanics and guaranteed they could start first thing in the am so that even if they had to pull the head I should still get it back tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Will, it has 58000 miles on it.
Dang, you're 8,000 miles over the emissions warranty. Do you have other warranty that'll cover it?

Not that I know of. Not worried too much about the cost, more so that I can get it back in service quickly.

Post by **Cactus Red** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:44 pm

That's odd, mine was 100% covered at 77K. Nary a dime out of pocket, including the rental car.

PWDan · Post by **PWDan** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:01 pm

Cactus Red wrote:That's odd, mine was 100% covered at 77K. Nary a dime out of pocket, including the rental car.

What year is yours and did you have an extended warranty or anything like that? I'm at 57,000 now and mine just started ticking on start up but I assumed it was just the 5.7 tick. Now I'm a little concerned that it might be the same issue with the passenger side studs. I have to check it out and see if there's any broken.

Post by **Cactus Red** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 10:39 pm

'09, with a lifetime b2b, but that wasn't needed. It was charged to RAM.

Dennis Miller "You can't order black coffee anymore. It's un-creamed..."

autogateman · Post by **autogateman** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:39 am

Picking it up this morning. total was 568$

SnakeEyes · Post by **SnakeEyes** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:02 pm

Reading this thread makes me wonder if I should do some preventative work and take all my studs out now on my 2015 and replace them all with throughly coated in anti seize grade 8 stainless bolts now while they come out easy

jswider · Post by **jswider** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:40 pm

Just had my 2012 done last week. Both sides were bad. Took them 2 days. Covered under warranty at 28000 miles.

Ducky's Dad · Post by **Ducky's Dad** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 10:47 am

Stopped at the Dodge dealer (mostly for free coffee and a donut) and asked about warranty coverage for my exhaust bolts. I have the CA emissions warranty and they told me the repair would have been covered within the 7yr/80M warranty period as emissions-related. My '05 is at 10yr/50M, so no coverage for me. Svc Mgr checked for TSBs on the exhaust bolts and found nothing. They had no advice on better bolts/studs or gaskets. They also said they are not seeing as many of these repairs as they used to, so maybe Chrysler came up with a production improvement. Svc Mgr also told me that the 4.7 is more commonly affected than the 5.7.

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