4.88

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Mon Jun 22, 2015 4:27 pm

Changing my ring and pinion to 4.88 in 2 weeks on a 2014 power wagon. Shop is charging about 1800.00 for all. They mentioned not needing to do a whole master kit because my bearings are still good(11,000 miles.) If a master kit is required it would bump it to about 2100.00. They want to use oem 4.88 rear and yukon front. Is there anything I need to be sure before I let them have it.

Post by **Pit Slave** » Mon Jun 22, 2015 5:37 pm

I'm having difficulty in understanding the price for the swap. Where are you located?

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usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Mon Jun 22, 2015 6:10 pm

Charlotte, NC

Post by **Cactus Red** » Mon Jun 22, 2015 10:13 pm

That's very reasonable for two diff's. A grand a pop is pretty normal with new gears included.

Get them to give you explicit break in procedures, and follow them to the TEE. Over heating new gears is the primary failure mechanism.

Dennis Miller "You can't order black coffee anymore. It's un-creamed..."

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Mon Jun 22, 2015 10:29 pm

Thanks, Ill probably change the gear oil 15,000 miles after the install.

olyelr · Post by **olyelr** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 12:14 am

Sounds like a pretty decent price to me. Not sure about the master kit though.

What size tires are you running? What is your suspension setup?

Mr.Smith · Post by **Mr.Smith** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 12:48 am

Even if that's @ the "going rate"...still seems high. For that price I'd do the work myself or enlist a knowledgeable friend to assist.

Post by **Cactus Red** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 12:59 am

usmc369 wrote:Thanks, Ill probably change the gear oil 15,000 miles after the install.

I'd be surprised if they don't recommend much sooner, like a 1000 or so, and to start with non synthetic straight 90W for the first go. After the breaking, then switch to 75-90W synthetic.

Having gears done is something I spent too much $$$ on back in my Toyota PU with dual t'cases at 209:1 - the wee little 8" Toyota axles are very tough for their size, but 5.29 gears have a very tiny pinion tooth, and I broke 5 of'm, including both front and rear on Outer Limits at the Hammer's. Heck of a drive back to the Tin Bender Jambo with both popping.

Dennis Miller "You can't order black coffee anymore. It's un-creamed..."

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 7:14 am

Thanks for all info,truck is all stock for now, tires (33), and suspension. Intend on moving to 315's when these go. The truck pulls trailer great loaded to about 8000, don't wanna run into any problems when i do upsize my tires.

Trouble Maker · Post by **Trouble Maker** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 1:40 pm

Yukon has a break in procedure to follow and recommends changing the oil and double checking the backlash after 500 miles.
https://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/Man ... ctions.pdf

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 11:25 pm

Gears are going in Mon., How do front gears break in with a central axle disconnect? Or do they still rotate. Will give an update when complete, thanks.

Trouble Maker · Post by **Trouble Maker** » Fri Jul 17, 2015 12:37 am

usmc369 wrote:Gears are going in Mon., How do front gears break in with a central axle disconnect? Or do they still rotate. Will give an update when complete, thanks.

Only thing that turns in 2wd is the spider gears and axle shafts. Since the front gears see very little use compared to the rear and most of that is at low loads/low speeds and I wouldn't worry about them too much. If you really wanted to you could remove the front driveshaft and put it in 4wd just to let the gears lap into each other but that won't really load the drive side of the gears only the coast side. As long as the pattern/backlash was good on the install I wouldn't worry about it too much.

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:34 pm

Gear shop is having a hard time with the change out, something about pinion bearing in the rear is different for 2014 model year. These trucks may have a 11.8 pinion shaft?? Has anybody had this done or am I the guinea pig here?

I have heard of others going to 4.56 from 4.10 (2014) and had this same problem, but if your truck came equipped with 3.73(2014) it will have the normal size shaft-11.5. Thanks all

loveracing1988 · Post by **loveracing1988** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 12:25 am

A guy on another ram forum went from 4.10's to 4.56 and claimed the same thing, only his shop told him he has a 11.8 gearset.

Post by **Pit Slave** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:32 am

Yes, they are now with the 11.8 gear set, same as in the SRW 3500.

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loveracing1988 · Post by **loveracing1988** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:14 pm

Pit Slave wrote:Yes, they are now with the 11.8 gear set, same as in the SRW 3500.

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It is NOT an 11.8 gearset. The pinion bearings might be the same as the 11.8 but it is still an 11.5. The 3500 srw still get the 11.5 as well. The only trucks getting the 11.8 are the drw trucks.

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:48 pm

Apparently the original pinion bearings (rear) will not work with aftermarket gear set. Master install kits will have the wrong bearing, they need a conversion bearing (timken) which is larger. Also said that I would not need spacers for the 9.25 front or 11.5 rear. These are yukon gears and they are going to check them after 500 miles. Now he's thinking late thursday for completion.

loveracing1988 · Post by **loveracing1988** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 5:49 am

usmc369 wrote:Apparently the original pinion bearings (rear) will not work with aftermarket gear set. Master install kits will have the wrong bearing, they need a conversion bearing (timken) which is larger. Also said that I would not need spacers for the 9.25 front or 11.5 rear. These are yukon gears and they are going to check them after 500 miles. Now he's thinking late thursday for completion.

That makes sense because the other swap I saw ran into the same problems with the same gears and came to the same resolution.

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:59 pm

Gears are in, still sounds like stock with no abnormal pitches. Only 50 miles on since install, will be more detailed when they are properly broken in. If anyone else is planning on doing this, the part number for the conversion bearing is TIMKEN T03HM807035. This bearing is necessary for model 2014 and up, and it is not widely known yet. This bearing WILL NOT be in the master install kit.

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Fri Jul 31, 2015 6:34 pm

Just an update, the truck feels lighter and more nimble now. It jumps up to speed faster with less throttle. I also have too keep my feet on brake at all times in reverse and drive because at idle it will move, even up my driveway which is atleast a 3% grade. The rpm's are about 2250 at 70mph. The sweet spot is between 35-45mph is when I read the highest gas mileage on the scale 20-22mpg. All in all i am very happy with this mod.

Will · Post by **Will** » Sat Aug 01, 2015 6:35 am

Congratulations man, sounds like a great move. So.....when are you getting bigger tires?

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usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:56 am

Definitely will bump up to 35's, but must bide my time. I have to wait till the wife forgets about what was spent on gear install.lol

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Sun Aug 02, 2015 5:07 pm

Just do 37's save yourself the money of jumping from one tire to another .... In the end everyone goes 37's (evil face) lol

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BlkWgn · Post by **BlkWgn** » Mon Aug 03, 2015 1:40 am

2wagons1driveway wrote:Just do 37's save yourself the money of jumping from one tire to another .... In the end everyone goes 37's (evil face) lol

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So true, I wish I had done 37's. Think I only have about 6 months of life left in the 35's though

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Sat Aug 08, 2015 9:57 am

Hell, I would be happy if my duratracs actually measured 33". It appears their only 31.6 inches tall.

Break in on gears is going well, it feels like I'm in tow haul all the time which gives me quicker jump off the line.

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