At a Mod Crossroad- Need Help

[Ducky's Dad]

What I said:

an effective reduction in gear ratio and lower revs at cruising speed.

What I meant:

an effective reduction in gear ratio and lower revs at cruising speed.

Not a goddamn thing incorrect about my statement. I'll stand by it. If you use larger tires and reduce the axle revolutions per mile by 6%, that is the mathematical equivalent of reducing your 4.56 axle ratio to 4.29. That is an effective reduction in the ratio. I did not say that larger tires gave you lower gears, I said they would give you a lower effective ratio. 4.29 is, in fact, a lower ratio that 4.56. The math does not lie.

And larger tires do not reduce the truck's torque. They reduce the torque multiplication because of the lower effective ratio. The truck has the same torque it had with the smaller tires, but that torque is being applied differently. It feels like lower torque, but that's because of the physics of the lower effective ratio.

[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

Reduction would imply moving further away from a one to one (1:1) ratio. A 6% increase in tire diameter doesn't reduce your axle ratio from from 4.56:1 to 4.29:1, it increases it from 4.56:1 to 4.29:1. Also, I didn't mean to imply that larger tires reduce an engine's torque, it reduces torque to the ground. If you dyno a vehicle with smaller tires, then dyno it again with larger tires there will be a loss of torque due to the increased "gearing ratio" that's produced by larger diameter tires. 4.29:1 is not a lower effective gear ratio compared to 4:56:1. Keep in mind that to reduce gearing you're moving further from a 1:1 ratio, not closer to it. I realize the "math" of it all sounds counter intuitive, but what I've explained is the truth. Nevertheless, I feel stupid "arguing" about such a trivial subject. Sorry. I mean no offense. My first degree was High Performance Automotive Technology and Mechanical Engineering. I get hung up on technicalities! :0P


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[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

In our stock trucks, and in 2WD, for every 4.56 turns of the driveshaft our axle shafts spin once. To reduce that gearing for more torque to the wheels/tires/ground, you'd reduce the gearing ratio to something like 5:13 (requiring the 11.5 rear end). For guys with lets say 40's on their trucks this makes sense since it increases torque to the wheels/tires/ground to compensate for having larger diameter tires than what Ram engineers originally calculated for the vehicle.

This may help to explain it better ... http://www.teamdavinci.com/understandin ... uction.htm


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[Ducky's Dad]

"Lower ratio" is not the same as "lower gearing." I was talking about lower ratio (the pure mathematical concept). You are talking about lower gearing, and confusing the two terms. Bigger tires give you a lower ratio, which translates to higher gearing (more mph per 1000 rpm).

[Mr.Smith]

Hahahahahaha! Your both Pretty...04Ram2500Hemi look what you did! Hahahahahaha! Just kidding, what'd you decide?

[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

"Lower ratio" is not the same as "lower gearing." I was talking about lower ratio (the pure mathematical concept). You are talking about lower gearing, and confusing the two terms. Bigger tires give you a lower ratio, which translates to higher gearing (more mph per 1000 rpm).

Agree to disagree ...


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[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

"Lower ratio" is not the same as "lower gearing." I was talking about lower ratio (the pure mathematical concept). You are talking about lower gearing, and confusing the two terms. Bigger tires give you a lower ratio, which translates to higher gearing (more mph per 1000 rpm).

Agree to disagree ...


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[04Ram2500Hemi]

Hahahahahaha! Your both Pretty...04Ram2500Hemi look what you did! Hahahahahaha! Just kidding, what'd you decide?

Still need to get exact quote on tires. I may wait until I hit 30,000 miles before I swap tires, which would be about this time next year. The BFG's aren't going to be worth a darn so I might as well run them a little longer. Plus it gives me more time to save some mod money.

[Will]

Hahahahahaha! Your both Pretty...04Ram2500Hemi look what you did! Hahahahahaha! Just kidding, what'd you decide?

Still need to get exact quote on tires. I may wait until I hit 30,000 miles before I swap tires, which would be about this time next year. The BFG's aren't going to be worth a darn so I might as well run them a little longer. Plus it gives me more time to save some mod money.

Considering the lead time on the arms, you can order them now and save for the tires while you wait.

[Mr.Smith]

^^^X2 on both!

[RAM4ROKS]

I think I was at 12,500 miles or something like that when I ditched my 33s in favor of 37s! These trucks look 100% better with bigger tires!!!!

[Will]

I think I was at 12,500 miles or something like that when I ditched my 33s in favor of 37s! These trucks look 100% better with bigger tires!!!!

Once you go 37, you're in heaven

[BANGG]

The cool thing is these trucks need very little modification to run 37's. And with the gearing in them already they can easily handle them. And YES, they do look (and perform) best with 37's!

[04Ram2500Hemi]

The cool thing is these trucks need very little modification to run 37's. And with the gearing in them already they can easily handle them. And YES, they do look (and perform) best with 37's!

Yeah- but I'm trying to be cheap- LOL! I'm never going to go on the Ultimate Adventure, so I'm thinking in the future Thuren Arms with 35" tires would be perfect for me.

[Will]

The cool thing is these trucks need very little modification to run 37's. And with the gearing in them already they can easily handle them. And YES, they do look (and perform) best with 37's!

Yeah- but I'm trying to be cheap- LOL! I'm never going to go on the Ultimate Adventure, so I'm thinking in the future Thuren Arms with 35" tires would be perfect for me.

All I have is Thurens arms and Yoko 37"s... The tire's profile makes it possible

[BANGG]

It's all a matter of personal preference. I really don't care what kind of vehicle or set-up anyone has. I've always said the perfect off-road/adventure vehicle is the one that get's you where you want to go AND BACK AGAIN! It doesn't matter what it is as long as you enjoy driving it!

[adeluca73]

It's all a matter of personal preference. I really don't care what kind of vehicle or set-up anyone has. I've always said the perfect off-road/adventure vehicle is the one that get's you where you want to go AND BACK AGAIN! It doesn't matter what it is as long as you enjoy driving it!

^^ ^^

[05PWrockcrawler]

It's all a matter of personal preference. I really don't care what kind of vehicle or set-up anyone has. I've always said the perfect off-road/adventure vehicle is the one that get's you where you want to go AND BACK AGAIN! It doesn't matter what it is as long as you enjoy driving it!

Totally agree but I do like to have different or weird rigs. Be easier if I had a jeep though lol


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[Takingatrip1]

NEW GUY QUESTION: without swapping the control arms can 35's be mounted on the stock wheels without them rubbing at full lock/full droop or stuff. ?

[Will]

NEW GUY QUESTION: without swapping the control arms can 35's be mounted on the stock wheels without them rubbing at full lock/full droop or stuff. ?

Only place they will rub is full cock on the control arms on a 4th gen.

[Will]

NEW GUY QUESTION: without swapping the control arms can 35's be mounted on the stock wheels without them rubbing at full lock/full droop or stuff. ?

Only place they will rub is full cock on the control arms on a 4th gen.

[04Ram2500Hemi]

So I'm going to bring this thread back to life because I think I have two Toyo A/T II options:
285/75/17 which is basically a 34x11.50 (33.9x11.3 according to Toyo's website)
35x12.50 (34.5x12.50 according to Toyo's website)

This brings me back to my financial dilemma. I don't believe the 285's would require new control arms which would save me a few pennies, which would then pay for the AEV wheels when they come out in another few months (by SEMA AEV claims). The stock BFG's according to their website are a 32.8x11.50 which is why I think factory control arms would still work (I kind of feel that the 11.50 wide is the magic number on the Power Wagon). I also think my current tire chains would work on the 285 tires (not 100%but it should be close) and that would save me even more money.

So long ass rambling short:
285's and AEV wheels?
or
35 tires, Thuren Control Arms, new tire chains?

[JBM Power Wagon]

So I'm going to bring this thread back to life because I think I have two Toyo A/T II options:
285/75/17 which is basically a 34x11.50 (33.9x11.3 according to Toyo's website)
35x12.50 (34.5x12.50 according to Toyo's website)

This brings me back to my financial dilemma. I don't believe the 285's would require new control arms which would save me a few pennies, which would then pay for the AEV wheels when they come out in another few months (by SEMA AEV claims). The stock BFG's according to their website are a 32.8x11.50 which is why I think factory control arms would still work (I kind of feel that the 11.50 wide is the magic number on the Power Wagon). I also think my current tire chains would work on the 285 tires (not 100%but it should be close) and that would save me even more money.

So long ass rambling short:
285's and AEV wheels?
or
35 tires, Thuren Control Arms, new tire chains?

If it were me I would take function over form, which equates to 35" tires, new control arms and new chains.

[Skyd Ram]

So I'm going to bring this thread back to life because I think I have two Toyo A/T II options:
285/75/17 which is basically a 34x11.50 (33.9x11.3 according to Toyo's website)
35x12.50 (34.5x12.50 according to Toyo's website)

This brings me back to my financial dilemma. I don't believe the 285's would require new control arms which would save me a few pennies, which would then pay for the AEV wheels when they come out in another few months (by SEMA AEV claims). The stock BFG's according to their website are a 32.8x11.50 which is why I think factory control arms would still work (I kind of feel that the 11.50 wide is the magic number on the Power Wagon). I also think my current tire chains would work on the 285 tires (not 100%but it should be close) and that would save me even more money.

So long ass rambling short:
285's and AEV wheels?
or
35 tires, Thuren Control Arms, new tire chains?

If it were me I would take function over form, which equates to 35" tires, new control arms and new chains.

I agree,
Plus the AEV wheels are supposed to be 10" wide with more offset than the factory wheels. That would put them at being too wide for anything less than a 35x12.5 and would require control arms anyways to minimize tire rub on the fenders.

[04Ram2500Hemi]

So I'm going to bring this thread back to life because I think I have two Toyo A/T II options:
285/75/17 which is basically a 34x11.50 (33.9x11.3 according to Toyo's website)
35x12.50 (34.5x12.50 according to Toyo's website)

This brings me back to my financial dilemma. I don't believe the 285's would require new control arms which would save me a few pennies, which would then pay for the AEV wheels when they come out in another few months (by SEMA AEV claims). The stock BFG's according to their website are a 32.8x11.50 which is why I think factory control arms would still work (I kind of feel that the 11.50 wide is the magic number on the Power Wagon). I also think my current tire chains would work on the 285 tires (not 100%but it should be close) and that would save me even more money.

So long ass rambling short:
285's and AEV wheels?
or
35 tires, Thuren Control Arms, new tire chains?

If it were me I would take function over form, which equates to 35" tires, new control arms and new chains.

I agree,
Plus the AEV wheels are supposed to be 10" wide with more offset than the factory wheels. That would put them at being too wide for anything less than a 35x12.5 and would require control arms anyways to minimize tire rub on the fenders.

Well 10" wide rims and more offset it sounds like AEV Wheels is out. That saves me enough money to pay for the control arms, so I call that a win. Plus I really like the looks of my factory rims.