Clunking universal?

[AceMan]

When in 4wd, I'll put in D, and no problem, then shift to N, and I hear a weird clunk, the to R, it's quiet, then I N then to D, no problem, but from D to N, nasty clunk. It does not happen in 2wd.

My dealer tech friend crawled under and couldn't identify the source and said he needs it in the air to get a better perspective. I was there for a short period just stopping by, since he's leaving the dealer to go to another. I'm bringing it on Tue to get it looked at by one of the other guys, I know there, along with possible front calipers (grabs left occasionally), and rear driver side door power lock not working.

Any thoughts on the clunking?

[Cactus Red]

Sure sounds like it could be the front CV, but it could be a case of low blinker fluid too...

[AceMan]

Front CV? Ok, thanks!

Low blinker fluid. I had that checked by the guy behind the counter at the local 7-Eleven. He said it was fine.

[Throttle 8]

When in 4wd, I'll put in D, and no problem, then shift to N, and I hear a weird clunk, the to R, it's quiet, then I N then to D, no problem, but from D to N, nasty clunk. It does not happen in 2wd.

My dealer tech friend crawled under and couldn't identify the source and said he needs it in the air to get a better perspective. I was there for a short period just stopping by, since he's leaving the dealer to go to another. I'm bringing it on Tue to get it looked at by one of the other guys, I know there, along with possible front calipers (grabs left occasionally), and rear driver side door power lock not working.

Any thoughts on the clunking?

I had this exact same thing happen six months ago. I am 90% certain that it is a broken wire in the harness at the back door. They did not leave enough slack in the harness, and the wires wear then break. I am told this is a very common occurance. A complete loom is $160., or you can peel back the loom and splice in a new piece and shrink wrap it.

[AceMan]

... , and rear driver side door power lock not working. ...

I had this exact same thing happen six months ago. I am 90% certain that it is a broken wire in the harness at the back door. They did not leave enough slack in the harness, and the wires wear then break. I am told this is a very common occurrence. A complete loom is $160., or you can peel back the loom and splice in a new piece and shrink wrap it.

Thanks! Is that right where the loom enters the door, or anywhere in the loom inside the door?

[TwinStick]

My d-side rear door power lock quit working YEARS ago. I have not fixed it yet. This is great info, thanks guys. I just went & robbed HF a few days ago. I got all the wiring stuff i need to do this job. Coincidence ? I think not .

[AceMan]

My d-side rear door power lock quit working YEARS ago. I have not fixed it yet. This is great info, thanks guys. I just went & robbed HF a few days ago. I got all the wiring stuff i need to do this job. Coincidence ? I think not .

Coincidence! Yes! LOL!

Posted by Nexus via Tapatalk. Please excuse any misspelling.

[pdavey]

I agree with Throttle 8. Had the same thing happen to me, just replaced a segment of the wire with something slightly longer soldered it and shrink wrapped it, no more issues. 20 minute job.

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[Throttle 8]

... , and rear driver side door power lock not working. ...

I had this exact same thing happen six months ago. I am 90% certain that it is a broken wire in the harness at the back door. They did not leave enough slack in the harness, and the wires wear then break. I am told this is a very common occurrence. A complete loom is $160., or you can peel back the loom and splice in a new piece and shrink wrap it.

Thanks! Is that right where the loom enters the door, or anywhere in the loom inside the door?

Exactly! It will be somewhere close to the pivot point. If they had made the wires 3 inches longer, there would be no issue!

[VA_Wagon Man]

Where is the wire breaking, in the part that is visible between the door and the b-pillar? Because mine doesn't work either, and neither do my rear door speakers......

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[cruz]

When in 4wd, I'll put in D, and no problem, then shift to N, and I hear a weird clunk, the to R, it's quiet, then I N then to D, no problem, but from D to N, nasty clunk. It does not happen in 2wd.

My dealer tech friend crawled under and couldn't identify the source and said he needs it in the air to get a better perspective. I was there for a short period just stopping by, since he's leaving the dealer to go to another. I'm bringing it on Tue to get it looked at by one of the other guys, I know there, along with possible front calipers (grabs left occasionally), and rear driver side door power lock not working.

Any thoughts on the clunking?

Probably nothing more than the torque in the driveline unloading, unless it's real harsh I wouldn't worry.

[pdavey]

Where is the wire breaking, in the part that is visible between the door and the b-pillar? Because mine doesn't work either, and neither do my rear door speakers......

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Yes it is in the carrier between the door and the b-piller. Just pull back the rubber and you will see where they are broken. I had the same issue with my speaker wire. Ultimately what happened was two of my wires had split. As throttle said they just chinced on materials. An inch or so more and you wouldn't have any issues.

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[Throttle 8]

Where is the wire breaking, in the part that is visible between the door and the b-pillar? Because mine doesn't work either, and neither do my rear door speakers......

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Yes it is in the carrier between the door and the b-piller. Just pull back the rubber and you will see where they are broken. I had the same issue with my speaker wire. Ultimately what happened was two of my wires had split. As throttle said they just chinced on materials. An inch or so more and you wouldn't have any issues.

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2

What he said!!!!

[AceMan]

When in 4wd, I'll put in D, and no problem, then shift to N, and I hear a weird clunk, the to R, it's quiet, then I N then to D, no problem, but from D to N, nasty clunk. It does not happen in 2wd.

My dealer tech friend crawled under and couldn't identify the source and said he needs it in the air to get a better perspective. I was there for a short period just stopping by, since he's leaving the dealer to go to another. I'm bringing it on Tue to get it looked at by one of the other guys, I know there, along with possible front calipers (grabs left occasionally), and rear driver side door power lock not working.

Any thoughts on the clunking?

Probably nothing more than the torque in the driveline unloading, unless it's real harsh I wouldn't worry.

It is harsh. I don't like it.

And since it's still under warranty, I'll let them deal with the harness or power lock actuator. At this time base on everyone's feedback, I too, think it's probably the harness. It's too hot out there right now to work on it anyway.

[VA_Wagon Man]

I just fixed BOTH rear speakers, power door lock and power window! As the turtles would say, COWABUNGA DUDE!!!
Thanks!!
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[AceMan]

How long did it take?

[VA_Wagon Man]

Too long in this heat. I guess it was around an hour.... I didn't really time it.

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[pdavey]

Just did a write-up on the repair. As VA_Wagon_Man said about 30 minutes to an hour depending on the damage.

http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... ?f=2&t=228

[AceMan]

Thanks, Pete. Great write-up!!

[TwinStick]

This is a must do then. My rear speaker quit at the same time as the lock. Thanks guys.

[AceMan]

Clunk update: Torque unloading. Power lock: spliced wire. So everyone was right!

[ABFargo]

Sure sounds like it could be the front CV, but it could be a case of low blinker fluid too...

We get 30-50,000 miles out of early front CV joints. If your truck is in this range, most likely cause.
Last time I checked here, OEM shaft was $750, with shaft from aftermarket around $375.
If on warranty, let Dodge pay, otherwise go for aftermarket (driveline repair shop).

[AceMan]

Sure sounds like it could be the front CV, but it could be a case of low blinker fluid too...

We get 30-50,000 miles out of early front CV joints. If your truck is in this range, most likely cause.
Last time I checked here, OEM shaft was $750, with shaft from aftermarket around $375.
If on warranty, let Dodge pay, otherwise go for aftermarket (driveline repair shop).

You mean the axle joints?

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[ABFargo]

Nope, front driveshaft.
Early d-shafts had no grease zerk.
Gen 4 front d-shafts have a needle zerk, allowing the centering ball in the CV to be greased, prolonging life.
Re: front axle u-joints, normally get 50-70,000 out of them as well.
Good front axle shaft upgrade is RCV replacement axle shafts. (minor thread jack)

[FirerescuePW]

Nope, front driveshaft.
Early d-shafts had no grease zerk.
Gen 4 front d-shafts have a needle zerk, allowing the centering ball in the CV to be greased, prolonging life.
Re: front axle u-joints, normally get 50-70,000 out of them as well.
Good front axle shaft upgrade is RCV replacement axle shafts. (minor thread jack)

If you are talking about a grease zerk on the double cardan joint, PWs have always had them. I have an '05, and there is even a warning decal on the rad support directing mechanics to find it and grease it.

Sent from an undisclosed location.