4.88 vs 5.13

[Truckin Redneck]

So I am going to to be regearing soon. I have a 15 PW and am swapping to 37s. I tow a ton, three days a week on average. Located in montana I do have a little altitude to deal with, also interstate speed limit is 80MPH. I was wanting to talk to those who have swapped. What do you like? Would you have gone lower/higher? Let me know.

[ScubaSteve]

I have 5.13's in my 2016 on 37's and its just about perfect. Almost a tad too low. 4.88's and 37's basically put it back where it was with 4.10's and the stock 32/33's.

Since you tow a lot, the 5.13's will probably be the better bet. Cruising at 65mph puts me right around 2000rpm and 80mph is pushing about 2400, IIRC.

[Mule]

whatever gearing a 2500 cummins has might work better...

Towing is why i'm looking at a cummins for the next go-round. (Keeping the PW though.)

[TankerZak]

I just had 5.13s installed. I'd agree with ScubaSteve. I haven't driven much... but it MIGHT be a tad low... or it's perfect. If you tow a lot or might someday go to 40s I'd do 5.13 for sure. If not I might waffle... but I'm pretty happy with 5.13s. But towing uphill in 2nd gear at 35 mph getting 2mpg was gettig old on 37s with 4.10s. This should fix that. I'm already spending a lot more time in 6th gear when driving.

[jeep_boy02]

I'd be interested in hearing any 4G guys chime in. I'm considering 37s and wondering about towing with the 456s.

I know I don't want 513s but idk how noticable that small of a change would be.

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[btsbarton]

whatever gearing a 2500 cummins has might work better...

Towing is why i'm looking at a cummins for the next go-round. (Keeping the PW though.)

3.73s in 2500s with Cummins .
4.10s available option on 3500 Cummins.

It ain’t the final drive that gives Cummins trucks the grunt….

[RustyPW]

I want 5.13's. But it's not going to happen with the 10.5 rear. I would have to swap to the 11.5.

[aheiser]

I want 5.13's. But it's not going to happen with the 10.5 rear. I would have to swap to the 11.5.

I hear you! I love my 2012 and want to keep it for a long time, but dang I wish I had 4.88s in it. I'm seriously thinking about looking into a 11.5 swap. Need to do some research. Obviously have a ton of bracketry on the 11.5 to cut off, mounts to weld on, etc. But hoping the the width is the same, and if it was a 11.5 PW axle, that the e-locker in it would plug right in and not make issues, etc. Wonder if anyone has done this and has documented any of it?

[RustyPW]

It's very doable. Hard part would be finding a good PW 11.5 rear diff.

[ScubaSteve]

I want 5.13's. But it's not going to happen with the 10.5 rear. I would have to swap to the 11.5.

I hear you! I love my 2012 and want to keep it for a long time, but dang I wish I had 4.88s in it. I'm seriously thinking about looking into a 11.5 swap. Need to do some research. Obviously have a ton of bracketry on the 11.5 to cut off, mounts to weld on, etc. But hoping the the width is the same, and if it was a 11.5 PW axle, that the e-locker in it would plug right in and not make issues, etc. Wonder if anyone has done this and has documented any of it?

You're better off just getting an 11.5 out of an older diesel or 3500 so you don't have to deal with all the 5 link rear end garbage. Probably get one out of those for cheaper, too. Of course you'll have to buy yourself another diff, but the factory Tracrite with locker is available.

[Luke Duke]

Can you guys give me the part #'s for the 2014+ axles? Everything I've found is 2013 and down. I think 4.88 would be ideal but 37s would be a nice touch with my AEV wheels tad bit extra offset.

Luke

[KevinABQ]

Nitro and Yukon are who everyone who has done this has said they used. I think Yukon was preferred, but not sure any more. A quick look shows that Nitro at least has 4.8 and 5.3 for the 11.5 diff, but errors ordering are expensive.

I understand that it’s also not the kind of install that you should be doing if you have to ask questions here. I know it’s way out of my league. So you might be better off starting with a mechanic who does this stuff all the time and can ensure you get all the right parts installed correctly.

[jeep_boy02]

Honestly when it comes to gears nowadays there's no reason to shop yukon. You're paying for a name that is just on a box.

They are not made in US any more, nor is Richmond, yukon gets from all over the place so you're really in a crazy shoot on if you get decent gears or not. Research your brands country of origin. Korea is good and lots of inexpensive options, like Elite.

Step it up some to revolution, they're Korean also. Italian is the best options, Korea is good to go. Stay away from China, Indonesia, turkey...

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[Luke Duke]

Honestly when it comes to gears nowadays there's no reason to shop yukon. You're paying for a name that is just on a box.

They are not made in US any more, nor is Richmond, yukon gets from all over the place so you're really in a crazy shoot on if you get decent gears or not. Research your brands country of origin. Korea is good and lots of inexpensive options, like Elite.

Step it up some to revolution, they're Korean also. Italian is the best options, Korea is good to go. Stay away from China, Indonesia, turkey...

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This is what my research has shown as well. I was hoping to get AAM if I could find the no part #s.

Nitro and Yukon are who everyone who has done this has said they used. I think Yukon was preferred, but not sure any more. A quick look shows that Nitro at least has 4.8 and 5.3 for the 11.5 diff, but errors ordering are expensive.

I understand that it’s also not the kind of install that you should be doing if you have to ask questions here. I know it’s way out of my league. So you might be better off starting with a mechanic who does this stuff all the time and can ensure you get all the right parts installed correctly.

When my Grandfather was young, you know early to
Mid-70s, I’d have had him out at the house doing it while “I helped”. But those days are gone unfortunately, so I’ll have to find a shop or depend on my dad to get it done…neither is a great proposition .

The truly unfortunate part is the best off road place around will tell you ahead of time “there’s a good chance it will roar a little afterward from gear noise” and I know that means the gear set is

n’t long for this world. Soooo….”pickins is slim” and I might have to go out of state to get it done I’m afraid. But regardless of that I want to choose my gearset, not just take what they throw at me.

Luke

[cb1987]

front 40136007 rear 40030646

[Luke Duke]

Finally looking to re-gear next month if I can keep the tax man at bay.

The guy doing it is of the opinion that 4.88s are the way to go, but I'm giving him the aam 5.13 part numbers...then I realized I cant find the AAM 4.88 numbers. Does anyone have those by chance?

[Luke Duke]

Finally looking to re-gear next month if I can keep the tax man at bay.

The guy doing it is of the opinion that 4.88s are the way to go, but I'm giving him the aam 5.13 part numbers...then I realized I cant find the AAM 4.88 numbers. Does anyone have those by chance?