Hardwired Lockers with OEM Knob

[myoung84]

Sneak peak of the black box....

[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

Nice clean factory look. I like!

[rgory]

Here is a link to the connector repair website. This particular connector (C137) is not available through Mopar.

http://connectors.dcctools.com/results.htm

[Mexican Import]

My 2013 looks similar if this helps...

[myoung84]

Cool. Thanks!

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[myoung84]

Teaser pic! Here's the 10 pin T harness...



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[azracer]

This will not work with the sway bar. After talking with Pit Slave, the electronics for the sway bar disconnect is much more involved.

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Just got time to catch up on this thread and I wanted to chime in.

I wish there was a way to get that sway bar to stay disconnected above 17 MPH and use it in 2hi as well as 4hi. I'm wondering if it is possible to J-tag it and flash the board with a new code (new set of instructions)? I do this with my phones and other home electronics stuff, but generally follow a tutorial that tells me to go to line thus and such and change something like the 3rd, 16th and 80th characters from a 0 to a 1 in order to enable or disable the feature I want. The string of code means nothing without a way to translate it.

I know I can edit EE-Proms E-Proms (I have the readers / burners and erasers and such). But if the Prom is not removable and is imbedded into the boards then that setup requires J-tagging. Then there is the problem of translating the code usually done with a proprietary GUI of some type. The J-tag will also require some kind of a loading utility to flash the code to the board. I do this all the time at work but it is all with proprietary stuff that just will not work on other systems. The hardware however is generic and provides the physical interface between the hardware and the PC. The GUI is all that we/I'm lacking.

Since the smartbar is essentially the brains of the system I think the wholly grail would be to get into the code and alter it that way IMHO.

The ultimate setup would allow the use of the smartbar disconnect at any time you like, with no mods other than the parameters required for it's use. I know from my initial checks the smartbar gets most of the data it uses like vehicle speed and 4x4 engagement status through CAN a j1939 data communications link, so altering the inputs would be very tough if not impossible without causing issues elsewhere.

I also think folks may be getting the wrong idea of the Hardwire locker capabilities. This will NOT speed up locking or force it to lock when the mechanism is not mechanically lined up internally (this is why we do the locker dance). Better said... It will not prevent the need for us to do the Power Wagon locker engagement dance to facilitate alignment of the mechanism and thus allow it to lock.

The hardwire will however block the software from preventing it from locking due to a detected error or improper configuration, like the 4wd flashing light, not being in 4lo or 4hi etc. You will not any longer be prevented from engagement of the lockers when there is the flashing 4wd light as you will effectively bypass that software code and be able to lock it in anyway. I just wanted the hardwired locker features to be clearer is all.

[myoung84]

Just got time to catch up on this thread and I wanted to chime in.

I wish there was a way to get that sway bar to stay disconnected above 17 MPH and use it in 2hi as well as 4hi. I'm wondering if it is possible to J-tag it and flash the board with a new code (new set of instructions)? I do this with my phones and other home electronics stuff, but generally follow a tutorial that tells me to go to line thus and such and change something like the 3rd, 16th and 80th characters from a 0 to a 1 in order to enable or disable the feature I want. The string of code means nothing without a way to translate it.

I know I can edit EE-Proms E-Proms (I have the readers / burners and erasers and such). But if the Prom is not removable and is imbedded into the boards then that setup requires J-tagging. Then there is the problem of translating the code usually done with a proprietary GUI of some type. The J-tag will also require some kind of a loading utility to flash the code to the board. I do this all the time at work but it is all with proprietary stuff that just will not work on other systems. The hardware however is generic and provides the physical interface between the hardware and the PC. The GUI is all that we/I'm lacking.

Since the smartbar is essentially the brains of the system I think the wholly grail would be to get into the code and alter it that way IMHO.

The ultimate setup would allow the use of the smartbar disconnect at any time you like, with no mods other than the parameters required for it's use. I know from my initial checks the smartbar gets most of the data it uses like vehicle speed and 4x4 engagement status through CAN a j1939 data communications link, so altering the inputs would be very tough if not impossible without causing issues elsewhere.

I'm sure it's possible, but figuring out the code could be a nightmare! I know I'm not touching it!

I also think folks may be getting the wrong idea of the Hardwire locker capabilities. This will NOT speed up locking or force it to lock when the mechanism is not mechanically lined up internally (this is why we do the locker dance). Better said... It will not prevent the need for us to do the Power Wagon locker engagement dance to facilitate alignment of the mechanism and thus allow it to lock.

The hardwire will however block the software from preventing it from locking due to a detected error or improper configuration, like the 4wd flashing light, not being in 4lo or 4hi etc. You will not any longer be prevented from engagement of the lockers when there is the flashing 4wd light as you will effectively bypass that software code and be able to lock it in anyway. I just wanted the hardwired locker features to be clearer is all.

Agreed. I think the biggest benefit is being able to lock them up whenever you want and not relying in the computer to tell you when it's appropriate. I do however feel that it will making locking both axles much faster. As it is now, the rear has to lock before the front even gets a chance. With the hardwired bypass, you flick the dial to Front/Rear and both are going to start trying to lock immediately. This could be a huge help if you're in a sticky situation. Last time I was out playing I ran into a situation where I REALLY needed the front locked up, but it took forever to get the rear locked before the front would try and lock. It took awhile but it finally locked up and crawled out of the creek bed. It was almost to the point that I was going to have to pull cable to get out. If they would have been hardwired, I feel that it would have locked up the front pretty quick even if the rear was still taking its time.

[myoung84]

Did some testing today and I've come up with a much better solution for the illumination circuits. I was assuming the LED's required 5V but they require a ground source to illuminate. Now I've got it down to a single relay and a couple of diodes rather than the 4-relay module I had planned on originally.

[myoung84]

Playing with the lights. This is what will be shown when both axles are locked.

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[04Ram2500Hemi]

This just keeps getting better and better

[myoung84]

I'm waiting on one more part that didn't ship out until today! I was hoping to get something done this weekend but that's not going to happen.

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[nrooney21]

I can't wait!8-)

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[myoung84]

This box is huge! Wasn't expecting it to be quite so big, but there's nothing else that I can find that I like that's water tight and big enough for everything that's going in there. I wanted to put it a little further forward behind the air box but it won't fit. I think this is a pretty good spot. You have to unclip a connector and zip tie it out of the way then the box fits perfect. You can also only get one screw in but with it wedged up against the wire harnesses it's doesn't budge.





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[myoung84]

This box is huge! Wasn't expecting it to be quite so big, but there's nothing else that I can find that I like that's water tight and big enough for everything that's going in there. I wanted to put it a little further forward behind the air box but it won't fit. I think this is a pretty good spot. You have to unclip a connector and zip tie it out of the way then the box fits perfect. You can also only get one screw in but with it wedged up against the wire harnesses it's doesn't budge.





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[myoung84]

Another option that I considered is using a non-watertight box which is quite a bit smaller with the same internal dimensions. I could apply some silicone to the lid before sealing it up. I think that would be good enough. Your thoughts?

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[04Ram2500Hemi]

I'd prefer the bigger box that is water tight. Better safe than sorry. The way I figure, if I'm going to void warranty I want to do it the safest way possible.

[myoung84]

Agreed. We good with drilling a single hole to hold the box down? I could use super high powered 3M tape but that would make removal a little difficult.

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[RAM4ROKS]

I'm not quite following on one part- Maybe dumb questions but- the one connector that gets unclipped and zip tied out of the way- what is it from? Does it staying disconnected effect anything? Is it redundant due to the new wiring?

Other than that, the box and wiring are looking great!!!!

[myoung84]

No it stays connected, we're just moving it to make room. It's clipped to the inner fender with two Christmas tree clips, just give it a tug and it comes off. Not sure what it's for...

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[warroad]

I'm all for the water tight box and drilling a hole (I think there is a joke here...) You are doing a great job with the design and I am excited for the finished unit.

[BMWS52]

I'm in for one when its done. Thanks for doing this!! Awesome job!

[myoung84]

All my parts are here! Now I just have to do some building!

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[Mexican Import]

You are gonna have a frenzy on your hands once you get these to market. I know I will probably harass you a bit... sorry in advance.

[TwinStick]

Just a thought: how about a Rubber Maid container of the proper size ? Water tight yet the lid can be removed for any maintenance issues. You can even paint it if you dont like the looks. Just a thought.