Hardwired Lockers with OEM Knob

[04Ram2500Hemi]

I would love to just see a green light for whatever position the switch is in. When they aren't locked, green. When the rear is just locked, green. When the front/rear are locked, green. Basically- I want it to look as close to factory as possible, minus the flashing light that I get all the freaking time. Hell- my truck is at the dealership right now for my lack of lockers simply because I want it documented (I don't have a whole lot of hope with the factory set up).

[myoung84]

If everyone else is cool with that then that's what I'll do. It will be a a little cheaper since I only have to tap into a 4 pin connector for the rear rather than the larger 14 pin connector which has all four locker wires. You'll just have to go by feel to make sure they are locked.

Either way I do it will look stock, minus the flashing...

[05PWrockcrawler]

Sweet no flashing lights. I'm very interested


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[wingerak92]

My preference would be to not have the light on until it's locked, BUT I will buy it either way. If you build it, they will buy it! Haha

[myoung84]

Sweet no flashing lights. I'm very interested


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This would be for 4th gens only at this point. I've done a little research and not all of the plugs are the same on the 3rd gens. I'm pretty confident that the wiring will be the same, but I'll just have to find out what connectors to use and how to make the harness. Not having a 3rd gen to test with is going to make that a little more difficult. I'm not saying I'll never do the 3G, but I'd like to get the 4G ironed out first.

[jeep_boy02]

If everyone else is cool with that then that's what I'll do. It will be a a little cheaper since I only have to tap into a 4 pin connector for the rear rather than the larger 14 pin connector which has all four locker wires. You'll just have to go by feel to make sure they are locked.

Either way I do it will look stock, minus the flashing...

Now I'm confused... were you saying to go with what 04ram was saying? cause to me I get that it is lighted when locked in each position not just indicating which position. I would want a light once locked for the confirmation, but as others have said I would also buy it if we cant get it perfect.

[myoung84]

Now I'm confused... were you saying to go with what 04ram was saying? cause to me I get that it is lighted when locked in each position not just indicating which position. I would want a light once locked for the confirmation, but as others have said I would also buy it if we cant get it perfect.

I should be able to do it both ways. I'm leaning towards having the real time confirmation. If I'm going to put this much time and effort into the project, I want it done right. What I should be able to do is use the rear light for rear lockup confirmation and use the Front/Rear light for front confirmation. This is slightly different than the factory does it but will give you independent confirmation of both axles.

I was able to find the 10 pin connectors that will interface with the wires from the cab and I found the 14 pin connector that has the rear lockers but I had a hard time finding the in-line connectors for the front locker. There's a 4 pin connector right next to the smart bar on the frame rail that I had planned to tie into rather than going strait to the axle. Unfortunately, this connector is not made by Delphi like the majority of the other connectors. It's made by a Japanese company Yazaki. I've sent them an email to see if I can even get them but I don't foresee that as being a feasible option. I've got another supplier that I'm working with that thinks they can get them. I am trying to keep everything as simple as possible so it's easy to return to stock. I want to be able to remove the control module, cut some zip ties, and remove the entire system in less than 5 minutes leaving absolutely no evidence of ever being there.

If I can't get that 4 pin connector I will have to go straight to the front axle with a whole new harness. You'll just have to tie back and tape up the OEM plug. I'm trying to avoid this if at all possible.

[04Ram2500Hemi]

Because I'm a little dense here you'll have to work with me, but here's what I think you are saying for your plan.

When we have it in the Rear Locker Position the Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear Locker light will be on
When we have it in the Front/Rear Position the Frond and Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Front/Rear Locker light will be on

[myoung84]

Because I'm a little dense here you'll have to work with me, but here's what I think you are saying for your plan.

When we have it in the Rear Locker Position the Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear Locker light will be on
When we have it in the Front/Rear Position the Frond and Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Front/Rear Locker light will be on

That is how the factory has it setup. Here's what I was thinking.

When we have it in the Rear Locker Position the Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear Locker light will be on
When we have it in the Front/Rear Position the Frond and Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear and Front/Rear Locker lights will be on

Doing it this way gives you independent status of both axles. Also, if you have the knob in either locked position and the axles don't lock up for some reason, no lights will be lit, not even the green open light.

[Mr.Smith]

Is there an issue with the factory wiring being to small & over some time, brittle for some Power Wagon's? If so a new harness would help this issue, sooooo...if you did go that route, something to consider. I'm just thinking out loud.???

[04Ram2500Hemi]

Because I'm a little dense here you'll have to work with me, but here's what I think you are saying for your plan.

When we have it in the Rear Locker Position the Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear Locker light will be on
When we have it in the Front/Rear Position the Frond and Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Front/Rear Locker light will be on

That is how the factory has it setup. Here's what I was thinking.

When we have it in the Rear Locker Position the Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear Locker light will be on
When we have it in the Front/Rear Position the Frond and Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear and Front/Rear Locker lights will be on

Doing it this way gives you independent status of both axles. Also, if you have the knob in either locked position and the axles don't lock up for some reason, no lights will be lit, not even the green open light.

That sounds good to me. You build it, and I'll buy it.

[myoung84]

Is there an issue with the factory wiring being to small & over some time, brittle for some Power Wagon's? If so a new harness would help this issue, sooooo...if you did go that route, something to consider. I'm just thinking out loud.???

I wouldn't think so? The locker solenoid wiring is all 16 gauge, I don't think that's too small.

A whole new wire harness to go to the front axles won't be a big deal, IMO. However, a whole new harness that goes to the rear axle would kill the idea of a simple plug and play wire harness and would take some time to remove from the truck. I could build it that way if that's what you guys want?

[Mr.Smith]

When you get into the 3rd generation kits, we'll talk seriously. For now I'm a "fly on the wall". By the way...who sells the toggle switch with the red flip-up guard?

[Mopar Bob]

The easier the install, the more that will likely buy it. Many will want to be able to return the truck to stock easily for service/diagnostics/warranty concerns.

I am very interested in what you come up!

[myoung84]

So, would you guys rather have a completely new harness from the "control module" to each axle or would you rather interface with the connectors under the hood? The front axle isn't a big issues either way. Using the connector upstream of the axle connector will make it appear a little more stock. The rear axle is the problem. There's a 14 pin connector behind the driver side headlight that has the four locker wires that I would intercept and the other 10 wires would just pass straight through my T harness. If I do a whole new harness to the rear axle I've got two 16 gauge wires and two 18 gauge wires ran all the from the engine bay to the axle. Not only will this add to the cost (Copper isn't exactly cheap and that's about 100' of wire) but this is going to make installation a much longer process and having to remove it for dealer visits (if that's something you're going to do) much more difficult.

When you get into the 3rd generation kits, we'll talk seriously. For now I'm a "fly on the wall".

[myoung84]

The easier the install, the more that will likely buy it. Many will want to be able to return the truck to stock easily for service/diagnostics/warranty concerns.

I am very interested in what you come up!

Sounds like keeping everything under the hood is what you guys want most. I know that's my preference... I'm not sure where I'll mount the control box yet, but you'll have a T harness that goes to a 14 pin connector behind the driver side headlight, one that goes to a 10 pin connector behind the passenger headlight, one that goes to a 4 pin connector on the inside of the passenger frame rail right next to the smart bar, and one wire that will go to the battery for power. Everything will be wrapped in wire loom for a factory look. Only one side of the 4 pin harness will be used. The other side will be capped off with a dummy plug so you don't have to tape up anything.

[Mopar Bob]

Sounds like keeping everything under the hood is what you guys want most. I know that's my preference... I'm not sure where I'll mount the control box yet, but you'll have a T harness that goes to a 14 pin connector behind the driver side headlight, one that goes to a 10 pin connector behind the passenger headlight, one that goes to a 4 pin connector on the inside of the passenger frame rail right next to the smart bar, and one wire that will go to the battery for power. Everything will be wrapped in wire loom for a factory look. Only one side of the 4 pin harness will be used. The other side will be capped off with a dummy plug so you don't have to tape up anything.

That sounds reasonable to me!

[Pit Slave]

Sent a PM...

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[ScottWagon1]

You will have a customer here! I want.

[Mexican Import]

Will the smartbar be able to be used while in 2wd? Either way I would support you and buy one. The lights being on when actually locked gets my vote, I would pay more to have the indication work the way it should have from the factory.

[JBM Power Wagon]

Because I'm a little dense here you'll have to work with me, but here's what I think you are saying for your plan.

When we have it in the Rear Locker Position the Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear Locker light will be on
When we have it in the Front/Rear Position the Frond and Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Front/Rear Locker light will be on

That is how the factory has it setup. Here's what I was thinking.

When we have it in the Rear Locker Position the Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear Locker light will be on
When we have it in the Front/Rear Position the Frond and Rear Lockers will be locked, and the Rear and Front/Rear Locker lights will be on

Doing it this way gives you independent status of both axles. Also, if you have the knob in either locked position and the axles don't lock up for some reason, no lights will be lit, not even the green open light.

This is how I would like it. Pretty excited!!!

[wingerak92]

You got a Canadian customer here!

[myoung84]

Sounds good guys! I'm waiting on pricing for the connectors from a couple suppliers then I'll order some parts and get to work on the prototype. Just wanted to give a heads up that I'll be in the $300 range for these kits. I'm trying to keep costs down as much as possible but with the relay board and all the connectors and wire, it starts to add up. Just don't want anyone to have sticker shock when I get ready to sell these.

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[nrooney21]

Sounds good guys! I'm waiting on pricing for the connectors from a couple suppliers then I'll order some parts and get to work on the prototype. Just wanted to give a heads up that I'll be in the $300 range for these kits. I'm trying to keep costs down as much as possible but with the relay board and all the connectors and wire, it starts to add up. Just don't want anyone to have sticker shock when I get ready to sell these.

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Sounds reasonable considering all the r & d and the cost of the parts. If you can get the lights to indicate correctly, I'm still in

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[BlkWgn]

I have no warranty, and my "smart" bar has not reconnected in almost 2 years. I have been thinking about hardwiring the lockers and going to an aftermarket sway bar. I am going to have to keep an eye on this thread