THE BIGGEST TIRE YOU CAN FIT

[OffroadTreks]

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Wondering what size tire you can fit on your Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins or Power Wagon? How much lift do you need? What about wheel offset & backspacing? Are you wanting to run those sweet 37-inch Mud Terrains? What about trimming? What about rubbing?

In this video, we answer all those questions and more for the Ultimate Tire Fitment Guide. We're going to show you just what is the biggest tire you can fit on your stock or lifted truck. Along with all the specifics of tire fitment for the Dodge Ram Platform. We'll help you find the right offset and the right tire size for your needs or wants.

Plus, in this video, we're going to stuff 39-inch by 13.50 BFGoodrich KM3's on my 2015 Ram Power Wagon!

[RustyPW]

[Bill2014]

[EasyDoesIt]

Biggest wheel...So like a 28" wheel would look sweet!

[Reloaderguy]

So after all of that the answer is still 37s if you don't want to cut anything. I don't think I'd go to the trouble of 39s, either stick with 37s or step up to 40s.

[OffroadTreks]

So after all of that the answer is still 37s if you don't want to cut anything. I don't think I'd go to the trouble of 39s, either stick with 37s or step up to 40s.

There is no trouble with 39's though. I can use my existing wheel. I could use stock wheels. I chose the BFG because it's the biggest number that is lying about its true size.

Nearly a fraction of the cost and effort of 40's. Not only that, I can hot-swap back to 37's or 35's for towing without it looking silly.

40's; with AEV Flares is a permanent commitment and huge cost. New offset wheels, flares, labor, time, etc etc.

You could argue that I'm spending close to the price of 40's in tires since these BFG's are $435 a tire vs $477 for Toyo MT's in 40. Actually it looks like Nitto's are the cheapest 40 at $411 a tire. Not bad at all.

Besides, everyone is doing 40's now. And I don't want to add 4 inches to both sides of my truck. Dare to be different.

[RustyPW]

When you flex the rear axle. Does the axle pivot forward on the up swing. On the 3G's with leaf springs. A 35" tire will hit the front lower part of the wheel well at full flex. Wonder if it's the same with the coil springs.

[Reloaderguy]

So after all of that the answer is still 37s if you don't want to cut anything. I don't think I'd go to the trouble of 39s, either stick with 37s or step up to 40s.

There is no trouble with 39's though. I can use my existing wheel. I could use stock wheels. I chose the BFG because it's the biggest number that is lying about its true size.

Nearly a fraction of the cost and effort of 40's. Not only that, I can hot-swap back to 37's or 35's for towing without it looking silly.

40's; with AEV Flares is a permanent commitment and huge cost. New offset wheels, flares, labor, time, etc etc.

You could argue that I'm spending close to the price of 40's in tires since these BFG's are $435 a tire vs $477 for Toyo MT's in 40. Actually it looks like Nitto's are the cheapest 40 at $411 a tire. Not bad at all.

Besides, everyone is doing 40's now. And I don't want to add 4 inches to both sides of my truck. Dare to be different.

By the time you're done installing the 39's the cost will be a wash and you'll have made permanent modifications to fit them. You have to cut out the rear wheel well: longer rear arms will cause a series of new problems like track bar to axle interference. Nevermind that you will have a lot of rubbing in the front. I've seen large 38's on a truck set up just like yours and steering was pretty limited, especially articulated. "Hot swapping" 35's sounds expensive and time consuming. If you want to store three sets of spare tire more power to you but that sounds like a total pain in the ass and at that point you'll have spent far more than the conversion to 40's.

Tirecrawler is currently backordered but they have 40x13.5R17 for $431 plus 15% discount and free shipping. I paid $385ea when I bought them. With that being said, if I were towing I'd buy 20" wheels and corresponding tires. Unfortunately the price jumps up considerably for 40's on 20" wheels. I wouldn't bother "hot swapping" tires and wheels.

[OffroadTreks]

By the time you're done installing the 39's the cost will be a wash and you'll have made permanent modifications to fit them. You have to cut out the rear wheel well: longer rear arms will cause a series of new problems like track bar to axle interference. Nevermind that you will have a lot of rubbing in the front. I've seen large 38's on a truck set up just like yours and steering was pretty limited, especially articulated. "Hot swapping" 35's sounds expensive and time consuming. If you want to store three sets of spare tire more power to you but that sounds like a total pain in the ass and at that point you'll have spent far more than the conversion to 40's.

Tirecrawler is currently backordered but they have 40x13.5R17 for $431 plus 15% discount and free shipping. I paid $385ea when I bought them. With that being said, if I were towing I'd buy 20" wheels and corresponding tires. Unfortunately, the price jumps up considerably for 40's on 20" wheels. I wouldn't bother "hot swapping" tires and wheels.

Ok Ian. Sure.

AEV Flares + Offset wheels + tires + labor, how much are you in?

$1,676.42 for those flares min.

$1925 for tires if you didn't get certs, not counting mounting.

You're already at $3601.42...

I won't count gears & hydro since those are mods even 37 guys should think about.

But, gonna disagree on it being a wash on cost.

When you flex the rear axle. Does the axle pivot forward on the up swing. On the 3G's with leaf springs. A 35" tire will hit the front lower part of the wheel well at full flex. Wonder if it's the same with the coil springs.

That was the thing. It's not the front. Tim ran 38's in Moab. His rears were into the bed on a few obstacles. The front is NOT the issue.

[RustyPW]

I asked about the rear axle, rear tires. Not the front end.


Plus I'm waiting on the hydro assist video.

[DamageWagon]

I asked about the rear axle, rear tires. Not the front end.


Plus I'm waiting on the hydro assist video.

Yeah the rear axle moved forward as it compresses. 37’s will just rub the fender flare at full articulation.

[DamageWagon]

There’s about a $4-5,000 difference in cost of entry between 39’s and 40’s just in flares and wheels, and a $5,000 difference in vehicle value when you do AEV flares; that would be more but you’re already doing some trimming to fit 39’s so it’s not like it’s going to stay all pretty and new.

It’s also refreshingly new. Everyone does 37’s. All the Toyota bro’s switching to Rams are going with AEV trucks and 40’s because they think AEV makes the ultimate suspension and its AEV or die.

Im really enjoying the ‘fuck your rules’ build right now.

[RustyPW]

I asked about the rear axle, rear tires. Not the front end.


Plus I'm waiting on the hydro assist video.

Yeah the rear axle moved forward as it compresses. 37’s will just rub the fender flare at full articulation.

That's what I wanted to know. Thanks. If Mikey is there with you. Please slap him for me.

[Reloaderguy]

There’s about a $4-5,000 difference in cost of entry between 39’s and 40’s just in flares and wheels, and a $5,000 difference in vehicle value when you do AEV flares; that would be more but you’re already doing some trimming to fit 39’s so it’s not like it’s going to stay all pretty and new.

It’s also refreshingly new. Everyone does 37’s. All the Toyota bro’s switching to Rams are going with AEV trucks and 40’s because they think AEV makes the ultimate suspension and its AEV or die.

Im really enjoying the ‘fuck your rules’ build right now.

I priced out the tires and 39's cost more than I can buy 40's for. The wheels are the same price since you have to buy wheels for the 39's too. The only difference is the price of the flares (assuming you're doing your own installation) and it'll be offset in the cost of extended rear control arms assuming you go that direction. BFG 39's are pretty close to the same size as 38" Toyo MT's so it's not exactly like this is some magic workaround to get 40's to bolt on. Throw a set of 39" IROKs on and take the same clearance measurements. 38's on Ram trucks are OK on the street but they rub like crazy offroad. Don Thuren made 38X15.5 fit by removing the inner fender and trimming the pinch welds; they still rubbed and he had no inner fender.

You're probably right about the accelerated depreciation installing AEV flares. I'd wager the depreciation is no different than cutting off the rear of the bed and clearancing for "39's" though. Fortunately there is no such thing as an unrealized loss and the longer you keep the vehicle the less the mods impact the overall value of the vehicle on the secondary market.

I'm not getting this Millennial version of Automotive punkrock. "Fuck your rules" sounds like the expensive way to do the same thing twice. I'm honestly amazed how well 40's have done and how little has actually gone into the truck after the fender flare installation. I'm kind of tired of messing with the truck and have just enjoyed driving it lately. Warranty issues notwithstanding, the truck is really well mannered and surprisingly easy to live with. Swapping tires back and forth and dealing with obnoxious rubbing sounds terrible.

[DamageWagon]

You could definitely be right, and that’s why this is an experiment. The recipe for 40’s is straightforward at this point, but we both wanted to avoid using AEV flares if possible due to the look and the width.

Thurens 38’s had big issues because they were 15.5” wide.

There’s no faking 40’s. We intentionally picked a small “39” because it would be easier and we are really working on the limit of what can be done.

Yep control arms are a cost to be added. I figure that most guys doing 39’s already have proper offset wheels; 40’s require a unique offset and new wheels are mandatory. That cost is a per-user number for sure.

Maybe this whole thing sucks. Maybe it works great. I like the look of the factory fenders full of tire. The AEV flares make 40’s almost look small.

[Oilbrnr]

^ that looks uncomfortably wrong, and I'm not bearded millennial. Is that on the bumps?

[DamageWagon]

^ that looks uncomfortably wrong, and I'm not bearded millennial. Is that on the bumps?

Ride height.

[OffroadTreks]

Swapping tires back and forth and dealing with obnoxious rubbing sounds terrible.

I already do this for Winter tires. It's 30 minutes of my time on a Saturday. Not a big deal. Good workout. Then again, minute things don't bother me.

Towing with this build won't be a huge concern for me really past this year. As the wife and I are going to buy a 2020 Power Wagon here in early 2021 and trade the Jeep in. I love the Jeep, it's loads of fun. But in the long run, it does not fit a family with 3 kids and a 4th planned for this year. And we love this community. And I think the wife deserves a PW since I keep taking this one.

[Tryingitout]

Hey new to the forum. Can’t seem to find much info on my 19 power wagon. My understanding is it comes with a 2” lift from factory.... so I’m trying to figure out if anyone knows the max size tire I could put one. I was thinking 20” rims with 35” tires if possible ..... it just screams bigger


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[OffroadTreks]

Hey new to the forum. Can’t seem to find much info on my 19 power wagon. My understanding is it comes with a 2” lift from factory.... so I’m trying to figure out if anyone knows the max size tire I could put one. I was thinking 20” rims with 35” tires if possible ..... it just screams bigger


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