Biggest tires on stock rims

shaner82 · Post by **shaner82** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 10:09 pm

What is the largest tire I can fit on the stock 17x8 rims? Also, I do not have the truck leveled, so that will be a factor too. Can I fit larger tires than stock, if so, how large can I go? Could I go with 295 or even 300 for width?

35's and maybe even 37's are infuture plans, but I just can't justify the expense right now. In the meantime I would like to get some new tires to throw on the stock rims. I do plan on doing quite a bit of wheeling with my truck so I'd like to get some better tires. May as well go a little bit bigger if possible.

04Ram2500Hemi · Post by **04Ram2500Hemi** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 10:21 pm

What year is your truck? I know a lot of 3rd Gen guys are running 35x12.50 on stock rims and no lift. 35's seem to be an issue on the 4th Gen.

shaner82 · Post by **shaner82** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 10:24 pm

04Ram2500Hemi wrote:What year is your truck? I know a lot of 3rd Gen guys are running 35x12.50 on stock rims and no lift. 35's seem to be an issue on the 4th Gen.

2013, which means no 35's for me.

04Ram2500Hemi · Post by **04Ram2500Hemi** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 11:22 pm

I think a 285/75 is the biggest we can run with no rubbing. That's something close to a 34x11.50 size tire. Toyo makes the new A/T II in that size. Most likely that's what I'll go with when the stock tires die.

fbenross · Post by **fbenross** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 11:42 pm

04Ram2500Hemi wrote:I think a 285/75 is the biggest we can run with no rubbing. That's something close to a 34x11.50 size tire. Toyo makes the new A/T II in that size. Most likely that's what I'll go with when the stock tires die.

That's funny...I just ordered 5 Toyo a/t II 285/75R17's for my stock rims. I know a lot of people run 35/12.50 on stock rims, but I think there too wide for the rim. I wouldn't run anything bigger than 295/70...

04Ram2500Hemi · Post by **04Ram2500Hemi** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 12:03 am

I ran a 35x12.50 on my stock 2004 HD Rim and never had an issue. It's just the damn wheel openings at stock height kill the 4th Gen. I'm waiting to see what AEV comes out with in the future. I really want their wheels, but I'm afraid of their fender flares. Hell- that whole truck scares me and my wallet!

JBM Power Wagon · Post by **JBM Power Wagon** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 4:15 am

I run 315/70/17 (35") tires on my 2011 with no lift or other suspension mods. The only rubbing I have is on the control arms when turning tight. I posted a full write up on here about 2-3 months ago. It seems like some 4G's will have major rubbing problems with some 35" tires but not with others.

Chiprat1 · Post by **Chiprat1** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:38 am

I run 35 12.5 KM2's on stock rims and they fit great with good wear....

fyrfytr704 · Post by **fyrfytr704** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:40 am

Chiprat1 wrote:I run 35 12.5 KM2's on stock rims and they fit great with good wear....

That sure looks like a nice place to kick back and relax! We had a spot like that down here, but the land was bought by a marina and they're ticketing anyone who takes a ride out there. Oh well, time to stumble onto another spot.

nts007 · Post by **nts007** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 9:42 am

40x12.5/17 stock pw rims

silver13 · Post by **silver13** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 9:46 am

I ran 285/75 nitto's on my truck when it was all stock without any problems. I am now running 35" toyo mt's on factory wheels with the Carli suspension with no rubbing. My truck is also a 13.

shaner82 · Post by **shaner82** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:02 am

silver13 wrote:I ran 285/75 nitto's on my truck when it was all stock without any problems. I am now running 35" toyo mt's on factory wheels with the Carli suspension with no rubbing. My truck is also a 13.

Thanks. Based on when your truck was stock, do you think 295/70 would work without rubbing, or we're you cutting it real close with the 285/75?

nts007 · Post by **nts007** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:10 am

If it's any consolation i ran 37" bfg km2's on my 06 pw and had minor rubbing. No lift. And 35's do fine on most trucks with not many issues. 315/70/17 works fine on a 05 cummins and 08 cummins with no lift But if you want to be sneaky get 285/75/17 vs 290/70/17.

fbenross · Post by **fbenross** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 11:53 am

I know a lot of guys are running 35/1250R17 w/o problems. But in looking at the manufacture specs they are too wide for the PW rim. I think the widest tire spec'ed for the stock rim is a 295. But as I said the 12:50's seem to work. I was worried that a tire that wide would not perform well (side wall flex) with my HEAVY pop top camper when cornering on the highway. I wasn't worried about off road performance. I wanted a taller tire purely for aesthetic reasons, so I went with the Toyo a/t II 285/75R17 which are 33.9" in dia. I got 5 for $1265.00 delivered. I have a set of Carli Control Arms on the shelf that will clear 35" tires so I have no worries about rubbing.

Will · Post by **Will** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 4:04 pm

I run 35's on my 4th gen. Slight rub at full turn but free and clear anywhere else. Fierce MT, mounted and balanced less than $290 per tire. Currently have 55K miles on them...

Will · Post by **Will** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 4:05 pm

DB...

Will · Post by **Will** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 4:08 pm

Stock rims and they have worn perfectly. Still not quite down to the replace em bars between the tread.

azracer · Post by **azracer** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 5:24 pm

fbenross wrote:I know a lot of guys are running 35/1250R17 w/o problems. But in looking at the manufacture specs they are too wide for the PW rim. I think the widest tire spec'ed for the stock rim is a 295. But as I said the 12:50's seem to work. I was worried that a tire that wide would not perform well (side wall flex) with my HEAVY pop top camper when cornering on the highway. I wasn't worried about off road performance. I wanted a taller tire purely for aesthetic reasons, so I went with the Toyo a/t II 285/75R17 which are 33.9" in dia. I got 5 for $1265.00 delivered. I have a set of Carli Control Arms on the shelf that will clear 35" tires so I have no worries about rubbing.

X2,
While 35s on a stock rim will work with minor control arm rubbing (on only stock arms), the trade off is the sidewall flex and most of the wear is in the center even with very low pressures in my Yokohama ATS/II (34/F 30/R). I went with the H2 wheel and have been happy with that combination for my Toyo AT/II and with my Thuren arms there is no rubbing anywhere. The tires almost stick out too much for my liking but it is not too bad and looks okay in my book. I plan to go with the Bushwhacker smooth flare that is 1 1/4" wider flare than our stock smooth flare but comes with a molded in bulge at the bottom-back for rocker protection. I have to pay off the truck first though! So 3 more months to go

Ducky's Dad · Post by **Ducky's Dad** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 11:12 pm

40x12.5/17 stock pw rims
ATTACHMENTS
image.jpg

Any idea who supplied those flares?

nts007 · Post by **nts007** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 12:53 am

I believe they are bushwackers

Ducky's Dad · Post by **Ducky's Dad** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:01 pm

I believe they are bushwackers

Might be, but I don't think so. Bolt pattern looks slightly different from the pics on the Bushwackers website, and the pics on that site show a rubber molding/gasket between the outside edge of the flare and the sheet metal. I don't see that molding on the one pictured earlier in this thread. I'm looking for a set of real pocket flares that bolt through the sheet metal (yes, I'm willing to drill my fenders) and all Bushwacker shows is "pocket-style" flares. I might be able to use real bolts on the Bushwackers, but I don't want to have to cut a bunch of crush sleeves to fit behind the flares before I bolt through the fenders. We used to be able to buy real pocket flares, but I have not seen any in years.

bstefanic · Post by **bstefanic** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:07 pm

Ducky's Dad wrote:
I believe they are bushwackers
Might be, but I don't think so. Bolt pattern looks slightly different from the pics on the Bushwackers website, and the pics on that site show a rubber molding/gasket between the outside edge of the flare and the sheet metal. I don't see that molding on the one pictured earlier in this thread. I'm looking for a set of real pocket flares that bolt through the sheet metal (yes, I'm willing to drill my fenders) and all Bushwacker shows is "pocket-style" flares. I might be able to use real bolts on the Bushwackers, but I don't want to have to cut a bunch of crush sleeves to fit behind the flares before I bolt through the fenders. We used to be able to buy real pocket flares, but I have not seen any in years.

They're cut out Bushwackers for a Ford. Mopar did all sorts of molding to get them to fit right and even then they didn't fit entirely that well. There was a guy on another forum that started doing it himself, I never saw the end product but the amount of time he was putting into was insane, you're talking hours upon hours with a heat gun hand shaping the flares...cool idea but for what those bad boys cost to much of a chance of messing them up for me.

Will · Post by **Will** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:08 pm

Yeah, no real flares other than the Dodge 4500/5500 series flares but I can only locate front flares, no rears since they're dually i guess. It'd be perfect if they had rear ones.

Ducky's Dad · Post by **Ducky's Dad** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:25 pm

They're cut out Bushwackers for a Ford.

I kinda suspected that, remembering the discussion from a few years ago on DT re flares. Since I put my H2 wheels on the PW with fresh 35" Toyo AT-IIs, I'm getting all kinds of crap thrown up on the sides of the truck so looking for some different flares. Not a big fan of Bushwackers because I had a set on the old GMC that never fit right, but if I can adapt them easily with real bolts (no double face tape for me), then I might get those. SmittyBilt has some pocket-style flares that I may be able to adapt, but they are out of stock until May (on the boat from China). Also looking for a set of real pocket flares for the new-to-me '08 Tundra that is replacing my GMC. Wanted to get 20 years out of the GMC, but the truck just wouldn't cooperate.

Ducky's Dad · Post by **Ducky's Dad** » Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:45 pm

Re the flares, I called AEV and got nothing but voice mail. Called Bushwacker and their flares screw to the factory fender lip holes and just sit tight (?) against the sheet metal, no tape used. They told me that there is about 3/8" space between the back face of the flare and the face of the fender, so I'd have to cut crush sleeves for every pocket hole (PITA). Need to find a set of SmittyBilts to look at.

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