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Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 11:52 pm
by Chromolykid
Have any of you guys replaced wheel hubs on a 5th Gen 2500? I’ve been chasing an intermittent shimmy in the front end for months and have eliminated all other variables I can think of, both of my wheel bearings have play (only 34k miles) and could be the culprit so I’m looking for any recommendation on brands, install tips, etc.
Gonna see if the dealership will warranty them but I doubt it with the ‘oversize’ 35” tires and aftermarket wheels.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:00 am
by DamageWagon
SKF hubs only, no exceptions. Do not run Timken. SKF is the NAPA house brand for my 2011 and probably is for yours, and NAPA will do a 3 year warranty on the bearings.
When you install it, and do this to your other hub as well, unscrew the ABS plug and squirt in a good chunk of your favorite wheel bearing rated grease. I got a LOT in mine, I think 120 pumps and 150 pumps per bearing. You do not need this much but I figure there’s still lots of air gap in there. When you pull the ABS plug you’ll see the tone ring right there, you’ll want to squirt some grease in until it fills the slot and then rotate. Squirt some, rotate, repeat, until you can’t get any more in or you’re happy or out of grease!
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:03 am
by RustyPW
DamageWagon wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:00 am
SKF hubs only, no exceptions. Do not run Timken. SKF is the NAPA house brand for my 2011 and probably is for yours, and NAPA will do a 3 year warranty on the bearings.
When you install it, and do this to your other hub as well, unscrew the ABS plug and squirt in a good chunk of your favorite wheel bearing rated grease. I got a LOT in mine, I think 120 pumps and 150 pumps per bearing. You do not need this much but I figure there’s still lots of air gap in there. When you pull the ABS plug you’ll see the tone ring right there, you’ll want to squirt some grease in until it fills the slot and then rotate. Squirt some, rotate, repeat, until you can’t get any more in or you’re happy or out of grease!
Or just buy Dynatrac freespin hubs.
You can repack them anytime you want.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:21 am
by DamageWagon
RustyPW wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:03 am
DamageWagon wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:00 am
SKF hubs only, no exceptions. Do not run Timken. SKF is the NAPA house brand for my 2011 and probably is for yours, and NAPA will do a 3 year warranty on the bearings.
When you install it, and do this to your other hub as well, unscrew the ABS plug and squirt in a good chunk of your favorite wheel bearing rated grease. I got a LOT in mine, I think 120 pumps and 150 pumps per bearing. You do not need this much but I figure there’s still lots of air gap in there. When you pull the ABS plug you’ll see the tone ring right there, you’ll want to squirt some grease in until it fills the slot and then rotate. Squirt some, rotate, repeat, until you can’t get any more in or you’re happy or out of grease!
Or just buy Dynatrac freespin hubs.
You can repack them anytime you want.
Or carry three lifetime supplies of perfectly good unit bearings that you don’t forget to lock into 4wd and spend hours stuck in a mud pit or silt bog
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 8:26 am
by RustyPW
DamageWagon wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:21 am
RustyPW wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:03 am
DamageWagon wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:00 am
SKF hubs only, no exceptions. Do not run Timken. SKF is the NAPA house brand for my 2011 and probably is for yours, and NAPA will do a 3 year warranty on the bearings.
When you install it, and do this to your other hub as well, unscrew the ABS plug and squirt in a good chunk of your favorite wheel bearing rated grease. I got a LOT in mine, I think 120 pumps and 150 pumps per bearing. You do not need this much but I figure there’s still lots of air gap in there. When you pull the ABS plug you’ll see the tone ring right there, you’ll want to squirt some grease in until it fills the slot and then rotate. Squirt some, rotate, repeat, until you can’t get any more in or you’re happy or out of grease!
Or just buy Dynatrac freespin hubs.
You can repack them anytime you want.
Or carry three lifetime supplies of perfectly good unit bearings that you don’t forget to lock into 4wd and spend hours stuck in a mud pit silt bog
Year before at Rausch Creek. Forgot to lock the hubs in and got stuck on a small tree stump that caught the front axle going down hill.
Did most of the morning thinking the hubs are locked and with the rear axle locked. The PW did good up to that point. Rear axle locked and 2 wheel drive.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 4:22 pm
by Chromolykid
Thanks for the tips Marcus, I’ll probably go that route. Can’t believe these are going bad already but they definitely have play and I get some weird resonance feeling from the front axle when going downhill. Not always at the same speed either which I think eliminates the driveshaft.
I like the free-spin hubs for how much I drive on the highway but I’m not a fan of having to manually lock them. If I can get a good hub assembly to last the life of the truck I will be happy. Might look into some quality u-joints while I’m in there just for peace of mind.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 4:58 pm
by Colibri
I used to run drive flanges instead of lockout hubs. It gave superior strength and ease of maintenance like the regular free spin kit but the ease of shift on the fly like stock. If you ever do break a shaft it’s just a few recessed Allen head bolts on the hub to pull the drive flange and go free spin on that wheel end.
Both dynatrac and spyntec will sell the kit without lockout hubs, then you just get standard 35 spline Dana 60 drive flanges and you’re good to go.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 6:05 pm
by DamageWagon
The spicer sealed joints are the way to go but having done mine I don’t think that’s a job I’d want to do without having a bad joint. It’s kind of a bitch.
I’ve got 185,000 miles on one hub and 45,000 on the other, and they’ve seen some air time LOL. The first one didn’t even give weird symptoms but it had metal flaming inside that triggered the ABS alarm, so it was in need of imminent replacement.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:03 am
by olyelr
DamageWagon wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:00 am
When you install it, and do this to your other hub as well, unscrew the ABS plug and squirt in a good chunk of your favorite wheel bearing rated grease. I got a LOT in mine, I think 120 pumps and 150 pumps per bearing. You do not need this much but I figure there’s still lots of air gap in there. When you pull the ABS plug you’ll see the tone ring right there, you’ll want to squirt some grease in until it fills the slot and then rotate. Squirt some, rotate, repeat, until you can’t get any more in or you’re happy or out of grease!
Now I know manufacturers can do stupid things at times, but wouldn’t you think that if it was a benefit to have it filled with grease then they would sell them like that? That just seems so fawking stupid!
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 10:09 am
by DamageWagon
olyelr wrote: ↑Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:03 am
DamageWagon wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:00 am
When you install it, and do this to your other hub as well, unscrew the ABS plug and squirt in a good chunk of your favorite wheel bearing rated grease. I got a LOT in mine, I think 120 pumps and 150 pumps per bearing. You do not need this much but I figure there’s still lots of air gap in there. When you pull the ABS plug you’ll see the tone ring right there, you’ll want to squirt some grease in until it fills the slot and then rotate. Squirt some, rotate, repeat, until you can’t get any more in or you’re happy or out of grease!
Now I know manufacturers can do stupid things at times, but wouldn’t you think that if it was a benefit to have it filled with grease then they would sell them like that? That just seems so fawking stupid!
They do have a little grease in there
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 2:55 am
by Retired BLM Rig
DamageWagon wrote: ↑Sat Jun 23, 2018 10:09 am
olyelr wrote: ↑Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:03 am
DamageWagon wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:00 am
When you install it, and do this to your other hub as well, unscrew the ABS plug and squirt in a good chunk of your favorite wheel bearing rated grease. I got a LOT in mine, I think 120 pumps and 150 pumps per bearing. You do not need this much but I figure there’s still lots of air gap in there. When you pull the ABS plug you’ll see the tone ring right there, you’ll want to squirt some grease in until it fills the slot and then rotate. Squirt some, rotate, repeat, until you can’t get any more in or you’re happy or out of grease!
Now I know manufacturers can do stupid things at times, but wouldn’t you think that if it was a benefit to have it filled with grease then they would sell them like that? That just seems so fawking stupid!
They do have a little grease in there
A little grease goes a long way.
Make sure you're adding a compatible grease to whats already in the bearing. Mixing incompatible products will cause them to breakdown and liquify.
Sorry for being a FUD monger.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 3:31 am
by DamageWagon
There is so little grease in factory bearings that diluting it so much probably saves any issues. Word from the OG crowd has been consistently - grease through ABS hole, use what tickles your fancy, and this has shown repeatedly longer bearing life by large margins with no negatives as of yet. This has probably been going on 10-12 years.
I use Amsoil Off-road grease NLGI 2 in mine. I have no clue what came in the bearings nor any idea how to even lay eyes on it without cutting the bearing open or destroying the seal
That said maybe somebody could run into an issue but I’ve not heard anyone have problems.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 7:25 pm
by Pit Slave
Just pour your favorite 140w gear lube in the front....
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 7:51 pm
by RustyPW
Pit Slave wrote: ↑Thu Jun 28, 2018 7:25 pm
Just pour your favorite 140w gear lube in the front....
Got some 80w-250. It's $70.00 a liter.
I don't see why gear lube wouldn't work. The front axle bearings on my motorhome run on gear lube.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 2:37 am
by DamageWagon
Grease is just oil suspended in a soap. On top of your favorite 100W-350 gear lube is just pour an ounce of Dawn in there. Gojo and Fast Orange work well too but I’d get the non-pumice one
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 3:53 pm
by Easttnrhino
Thanks for the grease tip thru the abs hole, my question is no ABS problems with the grease in there?
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 5:43 pm
by DamageWagon
Easttnrhino wrote: ↑Thu Jul 05, 2018 3:53 pm
Thanks for the grease tip thru the abs hole, my question is no ABS problems with the grease in there?
Nope won’t cause any issues, ABS uses a magnetic pickup and the grease won’t interfere. If you have an ABS issue after greasing, stick a Q-tip in the hole and get some grease out and inspect it - I found metal shavings in my grease and that’s what told me the bearing was going out.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2020 11:12 am
by Ak68w
Wanted to bump this thread as it looks like I’ll be needing a new bearing on the passenger side. The shop recommends premier, what do you guys say? I kind of like to upgrade stuff when things break or wear out, any suggestions?
Thanks
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2020 1:02 pm
by DamageWagon
Who the heck is Premier? SKF is the only brand I can recommend. They are carried as Napa’s house brand. Even Timkens have a lot of issues.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2020 5:19 pm
by Retired BLM Rig
You could always use this as an excuse to upgrade to a free spin hub kit, like Dynatrac.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2020 9:27 pm
by RustyPW
Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 5:19 pm
You could always use this as an excuse to upgrade to a free spin hub kit, like Dynatrac.
2X!
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2020 5:35 am
by Ak68w
Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 5:19 pm
You could always use this as an excuse to upgrade to a free spin hub kit, like Dynatrac.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Plus I shift in and out of four-wheel-drive 3 to 4 times per day when it rains just backing out of the driveway I’d hate to have to get out twice each time.
Premier is a brand at the shop recommended. I have no clue who they are. I looked at the SKF bearings and they are substantially cheaper than the rest which does not necessarily indicate poor quality but just makes me nervous. Any idea why they are so much cheaper? The Premier runs 327 and the SKF bearings are $207. I have seen bearings for this application anywhere between $168 and $378.
After looking this morning seems I’m mistaken the SKF are running about 250. I found a one star review on O’Reilly’s website for the Premier bearings where the guy says he’s had to replace them several times after about 10,000 miles LOL
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2020 9:38 am
by Retired BLM Rig
You don't have to lock and unlock each time you use 4WD, just leave them locked during foul weather. If you take a road trip, unlock and enjoy the fuel savings.
If you're out on the trail and break a front axle or gear, unlock and drive home. If this happens with a unitized hub bearing, call a tow truck and
They're serviceable and when properly maintained will last 10X longer than a unitized hub bearing. If the bearings or seals do need to be replaced, $100 + or -.
You said you wanted to
upgrade, SKF or any other unitized bearing is stock and not an upgrade (IMHO).
Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2020 11:16 am
by DamageWagon
SKF is OEM. It is the highest quality unit bearing I know of.
I do not consider free spins to be an upgrade. They will never pay for themselves with a negligible fuel savings over the unit bearings on your CAD axle. Maybe 1/4mpg when both sides are unlocked? Sure they last longer, but you can buy 7 unit bearings for one free spin kit, and our 2011 shop truck was absolutely beat to shit and treated like hell on 37’s and only had one unit bearing go out at 140k miles, and the other side was happy all the way to 210k miles when we sold it.
Put grease in your unit bearings through the ABS hole and they last a lot longer.
Re: Wheel Bearing/Hub Recommendation
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2020 11:56 am
by OffroadTreks
Ak68w wrote: ↑Wed Mar 04, 2020 5:35 am
Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 5:19 pm
You could always use this as an excuse to upgrade to a free spin hub kit, like Dynatrac.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Plus I shift in and out of four-wheel-drive 3 to 4 times per day when it rains just backing out of the driveway I’d hate to have to get out twice each time.
Premier is a brand at the shop recommended. I have no clue who they are. I looked at the SKF bearings and they are substantially cheaper than the rest which does not necessarily indicate poor quality but just makes me nervous. Any idea why they are so much cheaper? The Premier runs 327 and the SKF bearings are $207. I have seen bearings for this application anywhere between $168 and $378.
After looking this morning seems I’m mistaken the SKF are running about 250. I found a one star review on O’Reilly’s website for the Premier bearings where the guy says he’s had to replace them several times after about 10,000 miles LOL
Yeah, the Premier is a cheap brand marked up and sold via installers to people who think that means better. Like when they go, do you want Good, Better or Best. People only need clever marketing bullshit when they are pulling one over on you.
They're the same shit 99% of the time.