FAQ: General Power Wagon - FAQ's

[Ramicon]

I just heard from the Dodge dealership that there will be NO 2013 Powerwagon..it will be called a 2014. Has anyone else heard this?

[RustyPW]

Chip_Rats hard wired locker thread. This one is a little different.


http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ost4632642

[cruz]

stock 2005 Power Wagon angles

[azracer]

Well I'm just days away from a major change in my trucks direction... Going to E rated 35/12.5/17 Toyo AT2 tires. I picked up a set of 5 H2 wheels a few years back and I am ready to mount the new tires to them. While the E rated tire will ride rougher the 0.5" wider wheel should help lesson that harshness just a bit. Since the 0.5" wider wheel is effectively split by the difference in backspacing between OEM and the H2's (@1.006" or +18mm H2 vs. +45mm PW), I suspect hub bearing and ball joint load will remain somewhat unchanged from stock. I wanted to be sure I covered all my bases before taking the plunge and dug up some old info in the process. Just thought I would share what I found. The net change I thiink is about 0.75" less back spacing or also can be said 0.5" wider track on center. While in reality it is not much of a change... it is a major deviation from OEM geometry in my book.

I used this to compare the wheels
http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp

PS: This for me is a huge change as I have always confined my wheels to specifications so as to not change dynamic loads or steering geometry (IE: .5" wider = 1.006" less backspacing). While my research shows that this H2 wheel change is an enhancement and not really a negative geometry change, I'm still just a little apprehensive about deviating any percentage from the OEM steering geometry.

These links have some good info.

http://www.getdieselpower.com/my04do...h2install.html

These links have some alternative info that one can follow at your own risk.

http://www.benchtest.com/rims.html

http://www.4x4spot.com/h2_rims_dodge_ctd.htm

I have the H2 wheels and 35/12.5/17E-AT11 tires on the truck and can definitely say there is a change in how it handles. The difference is huge. I'm not sure it is a net negative but it feels so much different I'm no longer comfortable tossing the truck around.... yet. I'm not real sure, but I suspect some of the change is likely due to the new tires. Need to do the alignment next week and I will start a separate H2 wheel thread if it merits coverage.

[Trouble Maker]

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showpos ... ostcount=7

After troubleshooting using the Chrysler Winch Service Manual (provided courtesy of Warn also attached here), I finally figured out that it wasn't my solenoids or my motor that had gone bad (as previously diagosed by the stealership), but rather the stupid thermal protector that had gone bad again (I had previously had the motor replaced for this).

This time I wasn't so quick to spend a few hundred dollars on a motor etc, so I set about trying to figure out if anyone else was having the same issue. After looking around on the internet it appeared that there were a few other folks were having the same issue even though they hardly used their winch's (I have only used mine for any real purpose, once to pull a car out of ditch a few years ago, other then that just to test that it works or not.)

After reading a few posts I decided to take a trip to my local NAPA auto parts to see if I could put together a bypass that looked pretty good and didn't cost an arm and a leg. I purchased item number 755-1598 a 2-Flat Electrical Connector - 12" Loop ($1.99) (similar to the connector that goes from the solenoids to the thermal protection switch) a few crimp ends and had some electical tape laying around the house. (All told less then $3.00)

Here are the pictures and instructions to detail what i did to put it together.

Instructions:

1. Cut the 2-Flat Electrical Connector in half and leave about 2 inches of wire on both ends.

2. Strip all 4 wires leaving the bare copper ends

3. Twist the ends of the black and white wires together

4. Use a 14-20 gauge crimp ends and crimp them onto the ends of the combined wires.

5. Finish with electrical tape to make more water resistant and a nicer finish.

6. Separate the two ends on the winch

7. Plug the newly created bypasses onto each end (you likely don't need the end from the side going to the winch motor but I don't like to leave empty wires hanging.)

8. Enjoy the fact that your winch is working again without having to replace the motor. (Just to verify the fact that there wasn't anything wrong with the motor I did take it apart and it looked good as new).

Have been looking at this here and dodgetalk and I think using the whole connector inline with a toggle switch across the 2 wires would be a better solution. There is probably enough room in the solenoid box cover to install the switch by the remote plug and the switch could be left in the open position till the TPS trips and then it could be switched to the closed position to bypass the TPS.

[SilverWagon05]

A-pillar grab handle fix. These will help to repair/improve your driver and/or passenger A-pillar grab handles, whether you are replacing a broken one or just want to prevent them from breaking in the first place.

http://www.genosgarage.com/GRAB-HANDLE- ... wQTzZ8o7qA

[leo72987]

Replacement Swaybar/Stabilizer Bar links

Standard Replacements
AC Delco 88877760
Raybestos 5451737
Mopar 05139522AA

Heavy Duty Replacements

DTS Pro Fab

http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02043-1-POWE ... p_313.html

[TwinStick]

Battery Charge & Discharge chart.

http://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycl ... 0Batteries

Scroll down about 3/4 of the way.

[leo72987]

They come as one each per part number and include the cross pin, retaining clip, roller, and bushings. The price isn't bad either about $24 for one Horizontal roller package and $7 for a vertical package.

Horizontal roller Mopar 05143198AA
Vertical roller Mopar 05143199AA

[Cactus Red]

Tire testing and other reports:

http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... f=2&t=2485

[CWood]

Sway Bar (Smart Bar) Fix!

First I'd like to thank Cactus for some help on the smart bar. It helped me understand it better to fix it and to know what to look for when trouble shooting it. Second, I tore the whole thing apart. Yes, and you can too. I found out how it really works and the main reason everyone has a problem with it. For reference my PW is a 2008. I hope to post my pics soon.

The smart bar "motor" is really simple. Cactus I have to correct two things. Pushing in on the "small plunger" does not make the "big one" pop out. Inside they are the same piece of metal. Yours likely had no lube and was getting cocked and stuck. Also, if you spray WD40 inside of the housing you MUST re-apply grease after it dries. Stuff it with grease. The grease you use on your joints such as your ball joints will work just fine.

So my original problem was that my bar would not lock except at one point when I was off road and I had a high degree of articulation (This is the day after I bought it). The funny thing was that it locked with my sway bar ends being at least 6" out of alignment. This made my PW sit as if I had completely destroyed my right hand leaf springs. So I researched and ended up taking out and tearing it all apart including the housing. I had nothing to loose.

There are 2 gears inside. One attached to each half of the sway bar. There is a gear sleeve that either sits on one gear (unlocked) or slides over to sit on both gears (locked). Both gears have a big tooth which must line up before the sleeve can slide onto both gears. Well just like Dodge front ends the tolerances on this sway bar are not well tuned. Essentially when the sway bar ends line up (where your sway bar links attach), the teeth are not quite lined up. This is what requires you to rock your PW.

So what was wrong with mine? Either the factory or whoever tried to fix it must have pressed one of the gears into place without even being close to alignment. When my teeth lined up the bar was completely out of whack. So I pressed the gear in, removed the snap ring, and pulled the gear off to line it up and reset it. I had to eye ball it. Re-lube everything heavily. Make sure you get all your parts back in place (there is also a spring and a washer/spacer). Clean and lube the seal and edges of the housing then put it all back together.

So in short. Like Cactus said, first figure out if its the electric actuator. Follow his steps for that. If the actuator is not the problem then go straight to taking out the whole bar and pulling it apart. If you feel confident enough to do an oil change and rotate your tires then you can handle this bar. Chances are you don't have a problem as bad as mine was and all you have to do is clean, lube and reassemble. PM me for help.

[RustyPW]

I've loosen the bolts up and pried it apart alittle on mine and sprayed lube (oil) into it. While still on the truck.

[TwinStick]

Axle shaft comparison - AAM vs Dana

The PW uses the 9.25 AAM in the front, a non standard 10.5 in the rear. The PW 10.5 rear axle uses the larger 11.5 axle shafts.

Dana 60 axle shaft diameter - 35.8mm, 1.41", Spline count 32, ring gear diameter - 9.75"
Dana 70 axle shaft diameter - 35.8mm, 1.41", Spline count 32, ring gear diameter - 10.5"
Dana 80 axle shaft diameter - 38.1mm, 1.50", Spline count 35, ring gear diameter - 11.5"
Dana 80 axle shaft diameter - 40.6mm, 1.60", Spline count 37, ring gear diameter - 11.5

AAM 9.25 axle shaft diameter - 34.8mm, 1.37", Spline count 35, ring gear diameter - 9.25"
AAM 10.5 axle shaft diameter - ?
AAM 10.5 axle shaft diameter - 39.0mm, 1.56", Spline count 30, ring gear diameter 10.5 - for the PW
AAM 11.5 axle shaft diameter - 39.0mm, 1.56", Spline count 30, ring gear diameter - 11.5"

If memory serves me correctly, the rear axle shafts on my 2004 were 1.23" dia.

[OffroadTreks]

This thread is going to get a reboot/update here shortly.