Possible Flaw in MYoung Bypass Connectors

[Retired BLM Rig]

Since I'm now the owner of one of these bypass kits (serial #0001), I've noticed a possible flaw that I thought I should let the other owners know about.

Some of the electrical connectors used in the system have open pin cavities that have not been plugged off to stop moisture from entering the connector. Any cavity left open is a path for moisture to enter and cause corrosion on all of the other terminals in the connector. It's only a watertight connector if everything is sealed.

For example, the kit came supplied with a front and rear axle factory connector block off caps, to keep them protected while not in use.

This is what the axle harness connector cap looks like.

When I hold it up to the light, I can see right through it.

This is what the cavity block off plug looks like.

This is what it looks like with the cavity plug installed.

If you own one of these bypass systems, it might be worth your time to check the integrity of your connectors. This is easy to fix by simply squeezing a little RTV silicone into the back of each open cavity. It might also be worth it to clean and put some dielectric paste on the terminals if they've been compromised.

If you want to buy the actual cavity plugs, they're available here. You would need two packs to seal the system.

This could also apply if you purchased your bypass from CajunPW, it's worth checking to be sure.
Again, maybe it's just my kit, but I thought I should say something in case there's others involved.

[Reloaderguy]

I noticed it when I installed mine and filled the open ports with RTV and dielectric grease. The block off dummy plugs were not included and I sourced my own. I have a later kit made by Shelby.

[Retired BLM Rig]

Now that I'm building the locker bypass, I've been in communication with a couple PWR members that purchased theirs from a previous builder (not MYoung). I have one on my workbench and another one en route for diagnosis and repair. These units use OEM connectors for interfacing with the truck and they use open barrel style terminals which require a special crimping tool to perform two crimps on each terminal. The first crimp is for the conductor and the second one is a strain relief that bites into the wire insulator to add strength. This is what I found when I did an autopsy:

The terminal on the left is from the old bypass that was sent to me and the one on the right is one of mine for comparison. Instead of the open barrel ends being rolled down into the conductor, they're just smashed down like you would expect from a generic set of crimping pliers. The problem is that it distorts the terminal and makes it so it won't lock into the connector. When I tried plugging the connector into the control box, it wouldn't plug in all the way and latch. After repeated attempts, multiple terminals started backing out of the connector socket because they weren't locked in due to distortion. One of the connectors in the harness was so bad, all of the wires had been hot glued into the back of the connector to hold them in place. I can only assume that this was an attempt on the builders behalf to mitigate a known problem.

So if you have one of these older locker bypasses and it develops problems and refuses to work, you might want to start by looking for loose wires in the connectors. You may have terminal illness.