Power Wagon Control Arms

[djgaston]

There are a lot of control arm options out there for our trucks, but here is some info on the Dodge Off Road arms.

We offer more choices than any other company on the planet. Short arms, long arms, non adjustable, single adjustable, dual adjustable, bent, straight, offset... we'll even build something custom for you if you want. The one thing we don't do is make cheap arms. Most are made from 2" OD 1/4" wall 1026 DOM tubing - bigger than anybody else. Our offset upper arms are made from 1.5" OD 1/4" wall 1026 DOM tubing - these are physically the same OD as most "cookie cutter" companies use for their upper and lower arms, however our wall thickness is twice as thick as theirs. We use the largest bushings in the industry - a massive 2 5/8" OD. This means more "meat" where you need it. Many bushings are just a 2" OD which is basically Jeep sized. The outer bushing is made from DOM tubing, and our inner sleeve is also made from DOM tubing - 1" OD. The significance of this is that it's not a flat piece of steel rolled into a circle like you see with BDS and others. This was designed to be a hollow tube from the get-go, we just modify them to fit the bolt sizes on our trucks. They are perfectly round and are about as heavy as a roll of quarters by themselves. All of our bushings are greaseable and if you ever need to rebuild them (we have yet to sell a a rebuild kit in 3 years now) it's a very simple process that can be done in just a few minutes. Here is a side by side shot of a standard bushing (left) and our bushing (right):



A lot of high-end control arms use joints on both ends, but we offer bushings or joints because not everybody needs the strength that joints offer. Bushings are great for those who daily drive their truck but then go out and play on weekends. If you spend a lot of time in wet weather or in colder climates, bushings are great. We had a truck use our cheapest set of arms and go all the way from Maine to the tip of Argentina, and back almost entirely off-road - they only had to grease their arms a few times. We have guys running these in Baja Mexico, up in Alaska and Canada, all over the rest of the country and several other countries too. If you want a good solid set of control arms that just works no matter what you are doing, here you go. And starting at only $399 you aren't going to find a better price for this kind of quality.

Our $399 non-adjustable short arms, both upper and lower are 2" OD 1/4" wall DOM: http://dodgeoffroad.3dcartstores.com/Do ... p_119.html




For those who are running bigger tires or just need more tire clearance, we also offer an offset version of the above arms that will give you an extra 1" of tire clearance. We use the same beefy lower arm and put a bend right in the middle of it, and then we use the smaller OD upper arm and offset it all the way to the inside of the frame. These are just $499 for the set of 4 and will bolt right in with your stock hardware. We sell a TON of these arms and should always have them in stock for the factory Power Wagon suspension height, but we can make custom sets in a few days in most cases. http://dodgeoffroad.3dcartstores.com/Do ... p_120.html








These are our non-adjustable bushing-ended arms for 3rd and 4th gen trucks. We have so many different arm options that I'll do multiple posts as time allows to kind of sort everything out and show you what we have. The above arms are our best sellers because of the price and quality, but everybody has different needs and that is why we offer so many options. I'll update this thread a little at a time and can answer any questions you have along the way.

[djgaston]

Here is another set of arms we sell a lot of. These are dual adjustable short arms. 2" OD 1/4" wall upper and lower arms with 1.25" shank Johnny Joints on both ends. These are reverse threaded so you can actually adjust the arm right on the truck by loosening the jam nuts and twisting the arm one way or another. We now use hex tube adapters so this picture is a little outdated (I'll get new ones soon), but the tube adapter itself is a hex so you can put a wrench on it to help tighten the jam nut without having to scratch up the powder coat on the arms. If you want the strongest dual adjustable arms out there, here you go: http://dodgeoffroad.3dcartstores.com/Do ... p_137.html (the link goes to 4th gen arms but we also have them for 3rd gens, it's just a different bolt size on one end)



We use Johnny Joints because they are the best. They are rebuildable, greaseable, forged, and just generally awesome. We use a lot of their joints on other products and have always had great luck with them. So what makes joints great? First, they are stronger than bushings. Bushings have some "give" to them but they really have a hard time holding up after a lot of twisting and turning on the poly bushing material. When they get worn out, you just replace them. As I said above, we haven't had anybody need to do that yet, but I know the day is coming at some point. With joints, they are designed to misalign so that movement is just built into the whole assembly. They can twist about 30 to 35 degrees and nothing binds up. What you end up with is a smoother suspension. And since there is no binding from that articulation, they last longer. They are also stronger because the housing is a much stronger chunk of steel that has been forged from one piece. The ball inside the joint is also much stronger than even our bushing sleeves, which are the biggest in that category. Joints just have more meat. They are relatively easy to rebuild as long as you use their special tool, or you can roll like me and just buy new joints when the time comes. It's much easier to thread the old ones out and thread the new ones in than it is to press the centers out, but as strong as these things are, you may never have to do either one. Just add some grease once in a while and you can mostly forget about them. They also do really well in cold/wet weather climates because the ball itself is sealed up inside the housing and then covered in grease, so the only part that is exposed is the shoulders. If you do a lot of water crossings, just grease them afterwards to push the water out. They are very low maintenance.

For the DIY crowd, we sell a version of these arms that you can weld yourself: http://dodgeoffroad.3dcartstores.com/DO ... p_104.html


We also offer a similar arm but with a single adjustalbe configuration, where one of our bushings is welded to one end (frame side) and the joint is threaded into the other end (axle side). This gives you the benefits of a joint that allows the suspension to move freely, and a bushing at the frame to help absorb some road feedback for a slightly smoother ride. That setup is $599 and I don't have them on the site yet, so just email us if you are interested in them.

Both the single and dual adjustable arms above are available with bent lowers, however the upper arm cannot be bent due to frame clearance. Most of the tire rubbing is on the lower arm so we can eliminate a lot of it, but for the most tire clearance available, you'll want our offset bushing-ended arms above.


Still lots more to come, I'll update more this weekend if I have time.

[Juday]

What size/length of arms would be required for those of us with the Power Wagon, 4th Gen with a 1" spacer?

Stock to 2", or 2.5" to 4.5"?

[djgaston]

Thanks for asking. The 2.5" to 4.5" option is the right length, that is actually what I would recommend even on a stock height Power Wagon as the arms are a little bit longer to compensate for the taller suspension height.


I'm still coming back to this thread to add more control arm options, but the last few weeks have been insane. Just ask if you have any questions. If you want it, we can probably build it.

[2011TXPowerWagon]

Do you sell the high clearance arms with double or single johnny joints?

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