Power Wagon Registry

Hey all. 86K on the PW and the rear pinion seal just started to leak. I have a suspicion that the leak started the other day when I took the PW on the beach. Super soft sugar sand and even with the Carli leaf springs I still had severe axle hop, even in 4WD. Anyways, the factory seal finally had enough. I'm planning on replacing it next weekend. I've read about two ways of doing it online so far...the correct way which involves the removal of the axles, bearings etc. to replace the crush sleeve and properly preload the carrier bearings, or the much simpler way of marking the pinion nut with a marker, removing the nut and yoke, removing/installing a new seal and re-installing the nut to where the mark lines up again. I really really don't want to have to pull the rear end apart to just change the pinion seal, but if that's the case I'll probably take it to the shop. Don't want to mess with the preload, etc. nor do I have the proper tools for that. I can, however, do the easier option at my friend's shop (has a two post lift). What say you guys?

I did the second method on my 69 dart..8 3/4 rear...then with 4.30 gears...didn't have any problems after ...I ran streets slicks on it...and race it....since then I rebuilt it ....new posi unit etc....and its an easy unit to rebuild..pull the ham out and work...I would try it again if I had to,even on the pw...have a good torque wrench...and listen for a hum,when driving lift off the gas pedal ...and listen...

I have actually never heard of the "remove the axle" way. I thought all you had to do was remove the driveshaft, remove the nut, remove the seal & crush sleeve & replace. Only hard part is getting the "holy grail" of torque specs. There are 2 different ones. One for a new crush sleeve & one for reusing the old crush sleeve. If you don't get it right, your rear end gears will wear much more quickly or be too loose. I don't know what those specs are. We all sure would like to know though. Also, there is a crush sleeve eliminator for the 1500's but i have never heard of one for the 2500/3500's. I wonder if it would work ? Sure would take the guess work out of that job if it would.

Hmmm...I would go look in my Haynes manual for the specs but it's a moldy mess from leaving it in the bed of the truck Does anyone have the factory torque specs from a service manual if I was to re-use the old crush sleeve?

If you have a good dealer, they will be able to tell you both specs.

From FSM...

cruz wrote:From FSM...

You da man Cruz! Thanks!

Someone should put this in the FAQ section. I'm just sayin.' It is a common question.

Hey guys, I just replaced the front pinion seal on mine. I borrowed a inch/pound torque wrench and checked preload on the pinion before removing the yoke. Then marked pinion and pinion nut with a punch. (Marker or paint pen could rub off). Hardest part was removing pinion yoke from pinion, dodge uses some good sealant in the splines! Replaced seal and put it back together. Tightened nut down to line up with punch marks. Checked preload and got the same numbers. I did not remove axle shafts either.

littletires wrote:Hey guys, I just replaced the front pinion seal on mine. I borrowed a inch/pound torque wrench and checked preload on the pinion before removing the yoke. Then marked pinion and pinion nut with a punch. (Marker or paint pen could rub off). Hardest part was removing pinion yoke from pinion, dodge uses some good sealant in the splines! Replaced seal and put it back together. Tightened nut down to line up with punch marks. Checked preload and got the same numbers. I did not remove axle shafts either.

Glad everything went smoothly for you. Looks like I'll be doing this either Friday afternoon or Saturday afternoon!

I've never done this type of repair, but I'm thinking by removing the axles there is no load/resistance on the ring and pinion giving you a more accurate measurement.

I don't want to, but I'm gonna remove the axles so I can get a 100% accurate pinion torque reading. Friend has a 2 post lift that I'll be using to make the seal swap easier.

I think you guys jinxed me.. My front axle pinion seal started leaking (47k miles) on mine and trying to debate a) ignoring it for now, b) dealer, c) independent shop or d) doing it myself.. lol

When doing the front, be VERY careful if removing the axle shafts. If you damage the internal seals when removing or re- installing, the guys at Quad4x4 said you need a special tool to remove & re-instal them, @ $795 !!!

Hmm... I'm thinking dealership sounds safest.. if/when it gets worse..

I had no trouble removing/reinstalling my front axle shafts when I replaced my front u-joints. Wasn't too bad. Hardest part was removing the axle but/re-torquing that thing. I used a 5ft section of galvanized pipe from Lowe's to use as a cheater bar on my breaker bar. Also had to buy a socket from Tractor Supply for the axle nut because that thing is a monster. On a side note I ordered the rear pinion seal, pinion nut and transfer case position switch today.

anybody replaced the rear diff pinion seal themselves on the '14+ trucks ?

be careful about marking the nut on the pinion. I have talked to a few driveline places local that build crawlers and buggys and they have all said that the main reason for the seal leakage is the pinion nut backing off which will cause the pinion to move slightly. When taking the driveshaft off check for lateral movement of the pinion, there shouldn't be any. I replaced my seal and outer bearing myself and when torqued to spec the nut actually was 1/4 turn further than the mark when i took it off. No saying it is true for all, but something to look at.

ive got a new nut to put back on. i just have to get a seal driver since the '14+ seal is quit a bit bigger than previous years. damn near 4" diameter at the outer metal edge