Power Wagon Registry

Hey guys. I know some of you tow near or at max load and use brake controllers. I finally need one (used mostly surge brakes up until this point). I'll be towing several 8-10,000 pound trailers this fall with electric brakes and need a good brake controller to help me out. Out of curiosity today I towed an 8,000 pound trailer without a brake controller and it was sketchy slowing down from speeds as low as 35mph. No way I could panic stop if need be. So let's hear what you guys are running and if you have any recommendations! Thanks. I'll also be buying some Timbren helper springs so I don't squat so much (love the Carli airbags but too much $$$ for me right now).

Thinking of the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 controller. I like how I can choose between electric and hydraulic brakes if necessary depending on the trailer. Seems easy to use and effective for what I will be towing.

That's what I have, and it works fine. I also like how versitile is is for mounting options/angles.

I use the Prodigy and the Timbrens. I recommend both.

The Prodigy works well mounted on the lower portion of the dash, even though ours is steeply sloped. The electronics compensate for it. The only issue I have with the Prodigy is when you are in stop and go, say, in town. If you accelerate then stop quickly, it seems to confuse it a little and it applies much higher voltage than needed for the speed. You can control it by accelerating carefully in those situations. I have put ALOT of miles on mine and would buy another.

Timbrens add some needed stability. I like where they mount, and how easy they install. I slotted one hole on each stock bump stop so I only need to remove one bolt to switch them. It takes about 5 minutes to switch them.

FirerescuePW wrote:I use the Prodigy and the Timbrens. I recommend both.

The Prodigy works well mounted on the lower portion of the dash, even though ours is steeply sloped. The electronics compensate for it. The only issue I have with the Prodigy is when you are in stop and go, say, in town. If you accelerate then stop quickly, it seems to confuse it a little and it applies much higher voltage than needed for the speed. You can control it by accelerating carefully in those situations. I have put ALOT of miles on mine and would buy another.

Timbrens add some needed stability. I like where they mount, and how easy they install. I slotted one hole on each stock bump stop so I only need to remove one bolt to switch them. It takes about 5 minutes to switch them.

Thanks for the feedback Mike. Much appreciated. I decided to order the P3 and the Timbren helper springs. I just didn't like how much my truck was squatting with just the Carli's on my test run today. Really unloaded my front end. I think the combo I ordered will greatly help when towing/hauling anything significantly heavy. Now I gotta figure out a spot to mount the thing. I'm going to keep my Timbrens in my toolbox when not using them and only install them when need be. All I need now is some LT headers to help the engine breathe better when towing down the highway at 70 in 5th gear @ 3,000 RPM's

Perfect timing on this thread. I am also in need of a brake controller and some sort of helper for my rear end also. With my new to me popup camper, it's time for both. The popup only weighs about 5k lbs, but completely loaded with gear, water, supplies, 2 quads, etc, plus the bed of the truck loaded with another quad, dirt bike and more supplies, I'm pushing the 8,000-8,500 lb mark, with a lot of the load on the rear end. My leaves have really softened up lately also. I think the last 7 years of abuse is starting to take its toll.

Here's a pick with just the empty popup. It's a little hard to tell with the angle of the road, but even empty, it's squatting pretty good. This is loaded up. Again, the road makes it look far less squatted than it actually is. I'm going to get me a stabilizing hitch and brake controller first, then look at possible Timbrens or Carli LT bags. I've heard good and bad about the Carli bags, but I'm very unsure of how well they would hold up to my abuse. Also probably have to get me a set of Carli leaves soon.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Another concern I would have, with using a stabilizing hitch, would be offroad ability. I'm figuring with a stabilizer hitch, it could cause some issues if the road less traveled begins to get a little rough. I'm picturing bending frames, hitches or busting stabilizer chains. I'm I correct in this logic, as I have never used one before?

SilverWagon05 wrote:Perfect timing on this thread. I am also in need of a brake controller and some sort of helper for my rear end also. With my new to me popup camper, it's time for both. The popup only weighs about 5k lbs, but completely loaded with gear, water, supplies, 2 quads, etc, plus the bed of the truck loaded with another quad, dirt bike and more supplies, I'm pushing the 8,000-8,500 lb mark, with a lot of the load on the rear end. My leaves have really softened up lately also. I think the last 7 years of abuse is starting to take its toll.

Here's a pick with just the empty popup. It's a little hard to tell with the angle of the road, but even empty, it's squatting pretty good.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351375628.425305.jpg

This is loaded up. Again, the road makes it look far less squatted than it actually is.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351375650.468222.jpg

I'm going to get me a stabilizing hitch and brake controller first, then look at possible Timbrens or Carli LT bags. I've heard good and bad about the Carli bags, but I'm very unsure of how well they would hold up to my abuse. Also probably have to get me a set of Carli leaves soon.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You definitely have a hefty load there! What kind of brakes are on the trailer? Electric or Electric over Hydraulic? I know the Tenkosha P3 I just ordered allows you to choose either trailer brake configuration on the screen. I also got it fairly priced off Amazon (around $130). Carli bags are sweet but the $1200 price tag is not. Also I'm not sure if your truck would exceed the maximum travel amount of the Carli bags. How much is your back end lifted over stock? The Carli's are rated for 12" of suspension travel...I'd consider getting a pair of the Timbren helper springs that I ordered. I don't tow all the time, but when I do, I'll remove my factory bumpstops, bolt up the Timbrens and tow. When I'm done, unbolt them and bolt the bumpstop back up. They won't ride as good as airbags but they'll handle the load and they're a BUNCH cheaper! Do you have a bumpstop spacer? If possible you might use that in conjunction with the Timbrens. FWIW I got mine shipped for around $170 from Amazon as well today...

As far as the distribution hitch...got nothing on that one.

The trailer's got electric brakes. My back end has 3" blocks under the stock leaves. I do need to bring it up just a little more, to level it out though. I don't care for the pre-runner look rear rake I've got going on right now. When I lifted the truck 6 years ago (5" front, 3" rear), it sat almost perfectly level. In that time, the rear end has definitely sagged. After swapping out the spacers for the Thuren coils, it's definitely more noticeable. I also do have bump stop spacers in the rear.

Thanks for all the info. I'm going to look up both now.

Another vote for the Tekonsha P3. I've had mine since I bought my popup in 2008 and have had no complaints. Does what it is supposed to.

I just have a cheap one from tractor supply. A Hoppy http://www.tractorsupply.com/brake-forc ... ol-0190538 . It works just fine. You can certainly spend more. http://www.tractorsupply.com/hopkins-tr ... ol-1430321

You can go air bags or helper springs to help with the sag. I have helper springs, they work just fine for me. http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/hellwig-3 ... -2500-3500

It has been my experience that a controller that uses inertia sensor will do fine anywhere but off road in hilly areas. I have gone with a hydraulic brake line connected unit even in the early days where you had to run and bleed the metal brake line into the cab to connect to the controller. Ya it was a pain back then but they now use pressure sensors to facilitate the hydraulic brake line pressure information getting to the controller. They are expensive (up to $300 plus the installation) and as a result there are few choices out there now.

The first time you come down a steep gravel hill with the trailer connected you will from then on just unplug the accelerometer based controller because the gain can't be turned down enough to keep the trailer from locking up and trying to come around the truck. On a narrow trail with a drop off on the low side you can get a ton of pucker. I use to just unplug my trailer off road, not a great solution. I admit the newer accelerometer based units are much better now but they still act up off road on steep inclines. There are some OBDII based units being tested that look promising but who knows if they will ever be mass produced as the liability is split between multiple MFG systems on the car or truck and the controller. I also look for the nanny state to require a stand alone trailer ABS soon too.

Here is one example of what I'm talking about when brake line pressure is used...
http://www.maxbrake.com/brake-controller.php

Clickable link for Tapatalk

Clickable link for Tapatalk

OBDII based unit
http://www.direclink.com/

Clickable link for Tapatalk

Not sure what mine is, but it can be mounted at any angle. I have had no issues with our camper either going up or coming down pretty steep gravel roads where i had to come to a complete stop to go uber slow through washouts. It would be nothing compared to actually "off-roading" with a purpose built trailer.

TwinStick wrote:actually "off-roading" with a purpose built trailer.

Yes thats exactly what I'm talking about nothing anyone would try in a 10,000 lb 5er. Job site trailers going to remote locations like cabins and such as well as trailering a rock crawling jeep to remote access camping and trails may be issues to consider. You just never know what you will encounter when trailering.

My driveway...
And this is not the steepest part!

That looks about as steep as the side of the mountain we go up & down with our 10,500 lb ToyHauler. I have had to use the lockers to get it up there. We just don't have the "your gonna die" drop off on the side. LOL

SilverWagon05 wrote:I'm going to get me a stabilizing hitch and brake controller first,

Are you talking about a WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH or a SWAY CONTROLLER ? Weight Distribution Hitches help move the load forward on the tow vehicle resulting in better handling by way of more contact of the steering axle to the road . What's comfortable on the highway for handling is usually too much offroad because of the hitch binding up during articulation. Here is some good info ... http://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx
and for brake controller info ... http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx

cruz wrote:

SilverWagon05 wrote:I'm going to get me a stabilizing hitch and brake controller first,

Are you talking about a WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH or a SWAY CONTROLLER ? Weight Distribution Hitches help move the load forward on the tow vehicle resulting in better handling by way of more contact of the steering axle to the road . What's comfortable on the highway for handling is usually too much offroad because of the hitch binding up during articulation. Here is some good info ... http://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx
and for brake controller info ... http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx

I'm talking about weight distribution hitches. Not sure where stabilizing hitch came from. Who knows what else I was thinking about when I wrote that.

I took twinstick thoughts a few years ago and bought the hellwig load pro overload springs and they work great.. when I don't need them, I just take the u-bolts off that hook to springs and the ride is softer again.. I also use a tekonsha controller.. My 5er is pushing 10k..