Power Wagon Registry

After reviewing this thread, I decided to go forward
http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... f=2&t=4732

Went with the Ultimate for the internal bumpstop. Will install Wireless air compressor tomorrow.

Install was pretty simple. Need 5.5 mm and 6 mm allen keys, 30 ft lb torque wrench, 9/16" combo wrench (preferably ratchetting). 3/8" ratchet with 16 mm, 9/16" and 5/8" sockets, wheel nut socket, 1/2" drive 21 mm socket and 21 mm wrench. 1/2" open end to install air fittings. 1/" pilot bit, 5/16" bit, 3/8" tap, tap handle. Wd-40. 1.5 ton or better floor jack, two HD jackstands. Sharpie

First step was to build out the airbags in the house where it was warm
Next was to take off wheel, bump stop, spacer and lower shock bolt. Drop the axle all the way down. finger tight install of airbag, line up the days star cradle. Mark with sharpie.
Strip off airbag and mount. Use 1/8" bit to drill pilot hole. Proceed to drill 5/16", thread hole. Install daystar cradle. Reinstall upper mount (torqueing allen head bolts for brackets to 30 ft lb).

Re-install shock bolt, put tire back on, repeat on other side. Remaining parts from not using lower mounts. Weight increase seems minimal as bumpstop spacers were quite heavy. Overall height seems perfect with no spacers.

Installed the Wireless one compressor and remote solenoid today. I mounted it to the front of the bed support frame under the drivers side. There was a ground stud on the frame for the fuel filler so I connected the compressor and solenoid to that.

The solenoid is well above the frame rails and the compressor is about halfway up. I aimed it down as the larger vents appeared to be on the top.

Used the supplied fuse adapter to connect to the Fuse 90/91 (rear power point).

Teed in a line to the rear bumper with an air valve that can be used as back up if the compressor isn't working.

I did have to sync the remote to the control solenoid, not too hard just take the cap off the yellow wire and ground it while plugging the solenoid in.

Remote is super cool, one touch to go to your two settings (can add a third as well), I have 5 psi and 50 psi programmed in. Air compressor is adequate for this application (takes a couple of minutes to go from 5 to 50 psi.)
At 80 psi, the truck is noticeably tail high compared to stock, this is with no oem PW bumpstop spacers, just daystar cradles mounted directly to the axle.

I want that little bugger BAD!

Nice! Is there a reason you guys are going with the Airlifts instead of the Firestone kits? Not sure if I missed it or if it's the only option on 14+ trucks. I have a 2012 that I'm really thinking of putting a set on

aheiser wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:23 pm

Nice! Is there a reason you guys are going with the Airlifts instead of the Firestone kits? Not sure if I missed it or if it's the only option on 14+ trucks. I have a 2012 that I'm really thinking of putting a set on

Airlift has one with an internal bump-stop. So you can run the bags with 0 PSI. Not sure if Firestone has that option... never looked at them

Minimum PSI on the firstones is 5. But that is also the minimum for the airlift compressor, so anybody planning to run 0 psi with on board air needs to make sure it's doable with whatever compressor setup they choose. I went with Firestone bags because the compressor setup I chose has a 5 psi minimum and the guys I bought from thought the Firestone bags were better.

Also, I think someone mentioned the airlift bags are approved for use with the daystar cradles. I don't know if Firestone bags are, but I did it anyway. I'm a real rebel like that.

Lmao!

Yeah, Firestone came out with a statement saying Daystar craddles were a no go. So with Daystar craddle option and internal jounce bumper to run 0 PSI the Airlift Ultimates were a no brainer for me. They also aren't so bulgy so i think they work in craddles better. Remember when you compress an airbag you raise the PSI. So even at say 5 PSI when you flex and compress it might take away a little compression and flex of the rear axle. I feel much better running at 0 without a compressor and ignoring them until i need them. That's my thought process anyway. For better or worse.

Exactly on the Airlift. Even with the air compressor, if you have an airline failure you won't damage the airbags. Seem to work well with the Daystars. I wouldn't have had a problem with the Firestones though, just thought the bumpstops were a good idea.

Tried 50 psi out with the trailer. Worked good although was a bit stiff, backed it down to 40 psi for the ride home...

With the second gen on the car hauler, guessing 60 psi+

Nice!

All summer I wanna say I used around 30 psi with our travel trailer (7000lb’s empty). That is with a weight distribution hitch, which was set up for no bags or leveling kit.

The few times I hauled my buddy’s Jeep with a car hauler I was around 30 psi also.

Of course, both of those situations were with the factory power wagon bumpstop spacer installed... I have not hauled anything since I took them out.

olyelr wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 07, 2018 9:59 pm

Nice!

All summer I wanna say I used around 30 psi with our travel trailer (7000lb’s empty). That is with a weight distribution hitch, which was set up for no bags or leveling kit.

The few times I hauled my buddy’s Jeep with a car hauler I was around 30 psi also.

Of course, both of those situations were with the factory power wagon bumpstop spacer installed... I have not hauled anything since I took them out.

Looking forward to spring. Need to re-setup my trailer after leveling and airbags. I expect it to be significantly better.

olyelr wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 07, 2018 9:59 pm

Nice!

All summer I wanna say I used around 30 psi with our travel trailer (7000lb’s empty). That is with a weight distribution hitch, which was set up for no bags or leveling kit.

The few times I hauled my buddy’s Jeep with a car hauler I was around 30 psi also.

Of course, both of those situations were with the factory power wagon bumpstop spacer installed... I have not hauled anything since I took them out.

Cool, I'll try 30 psi next time!

Do you use a weight distribution/sway control hitch with your travel trailer? If so, and the fact you still have the factory rake, I would doubt you really even need much air in the bags (if any at all) for that trailer (looks relatively small/light).

Not hooked up in the picture... Now WD hitch, I use one when I tow my carhauler but not for the travel trailer. It's ~ 5k lb, but tongue heavy, around 750 lb or better. (Many people with the same trailer weigh it loaded over 800 lb tongue.)

The bags made a couple of inches of difference when hooked up. Enough to where I ordered a deeper drop Class V hitch.

This will it allow to be level if I do a leveling kit.

So....need some help on this one....

I have 2017 PW that I took to 4WP in Atlanta to have AL5000 and Daystar cradles installed. Did the overnight airleak at 35psi - no leak. Two weeks after install, carried first load of approx 6k on 20ft trailer. Driver side bag leaked, tore, cracked... something happened to bag between bottom of bag and cradle. Got with 4WP and the agreed to replace it. Went back in, had another bag installed. On drive home, set bags at 50psi. Within 1hr of 2.5hr trip home, same bag was down. Sprayed with soapy water, leaking again under bag/above cradle. 4WP wants me to come BACK in.

Does any one have ANY IDEA why this may be happening? First bag was diagnosed as "bad from factory", but second bag did same thing within 1hr of install. I'm kinda stuck with having to make another trip (5hrs round trip/another day off work/another $100 in gas) because no one locally wants to try to figure out what is going on. I just dont want to make another trip for the same thing to happen again.

I finally got my 5000 Ultimate air bags and Daystar cradles installed. Life and procrastination have been getting in the way.

Everything was very straightforward. I really didn't want to mess with the lower shock bolts so I had planned on using a 90deg offset drill chuck that has sat unused in my toolbox for about 25 years. I removed the chuck from my old corded drill without issue and then realized there was no way put a 3/8" chuck on a drill that uses a 1/2" one. The chucks would not budge from my 3/8" Dewalt or Milwaukee drills.

While I was looking at my collection of power tools, I realized my little 12v Milwaukee impact driver might be the solution. Sure enough, I found a 5/16" drill bit for impact drivers problem solved with room to spare. The only other deviation from the previous posts was my placement of the fill valves. I used the upper holes in my rear license plate. I stole the idea from pictures on line.

I like the fill valve location. I'm stealing that when I do mine.

I like the fill valve location. I'm stealing that when I do mine.

you get to meet geniuses every day... i love the internet.

Another option. Used existing holes.

Nice!