Power Wagon Registry

What stage are you running and would it be feasible to run stage 3/4 front and 2/3 rear?

Feasible? Yeah lots of guys run different stages front and back. I think Pit is running 6 up front and 3 in back and he said he liked it. It's common to run stiffer up front.

Thanks Marcus. I just thought I'd throw it out there before I order.

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It's a good question to have. People have recently been mentioning spring rates and harmonics, but you don't have to look that hard into it with the shocks. They only reduce harmonics. An unbalanced ride might feel weird, but stiffer front and softer rear is a common combination that a lot of guys like. That's how I'm running mine, although I don't have Don's valving so I can't give you profiles for reference.

Yeah, I plan to hit up Aaron about it tomorrow. I respect everyone's opinion here so I thought I would post for thoughts. I was considering a 4/3 f/r setup.

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He is one of two guys to ask Aaron is a good guy and will guide you straight.

What are you looking to accomplish? Plush street ride, washboard boogie, jumping? Have a clear notion of what you really want when you talk to Don/Aaron and they'll get you exactly what you need. My .2 cents, once you step up to a serious performance shock setup you'll find out quickly that you can safely push the truck harder than you ever thought possible, and it gets addicting very quickly. Err on the side of more valving rather than less. It'll save you money in the long run. Worst case scenario is the street ride is sporty and only marginally better composed than stock but it's a beast on the rough. I would think 4 or even 5 front and one step down out back. If you spend a lot of dirt time heading out to the deer lease it'll eat up that south Texas terrain like a boss.

What the other guys said. I'd also like to add that a lot of the harshness you feel is actually the front sway bar. It's insane how over sprung the sway bar is. Do yourself a favor, before you settle on the valving pull out a sway bar link and drive your truck around a bit. You might find that your valving is actually to light and your sway bar is way too heavy. I'm starting to think I should have went with four in the front and three in the back.

You may be on to something regarding that swaybar. It's a 1+'' front bar. Im guessing it's the same bar they use on regular 2500 series trucks for additional sway control when towing and probably hampers performance on the PW once you start messing with spring rates and travel. They basically threw some different springs at a 2500 rather than design a completely new suspension around the softer springs and additional travel. I may have to play with that a bit. I'm starting to lean towards the 4/5 front and 3/4 rear valving.

And I like that worst case scenario colibri .

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I'll second the swaybar recommendation, hands down the best mod to my truck was swapping to a torsion bar up front. It makes a tremendous difference in ride and handling.

Also get boogie bumps as you're able, sounds like you're going to need them lol

I've decided to throw about $3k into it and considered just buying the best shocks and springs I can initially afford. Torsion swaybars, boogie bumps, my heads starting to swim. Boogies are a great idea but they're what, $700 for the pair? No sense in going half ass with it. I may toss those in.

What's your thoughts on the front/rear trackbars? I'm guessing I'm fine with the stock front. I've heard you state reloader the front is the same length as Thuren's aftermarket at the initial setting and adjustment's really not required.

I'm going to have to come and pay you a visit colibri. It sounds like you have some very cool toys!

Rear boogies aren't required unless you plan on jumping or need very aggressive valving.

Colibri has a point... A nice street ride is pretty nice, but when you realize when you're sitting in traffic that you can just hop over into the dirt and start bombing, you start to make some questionable decisions higher valving profiles just give room for a better party, and Stage 6+ is full rager

Boogie bumps are way cheaper than that for a single axle. Just throw them on the front. If you keep slamming the rear into the bumps, you're probably also going to be doing a lot of other things that point you towards stiffer valving all around.

Rodeoflyer wrote:I've decided to throw about $3k into it and considered just buying the best shocks and springs I can initially afford. Torsion swaybars, boogie bumps, my heads starting to swim. Boogies are a great idea but they're what, $700 for the pair? No sense in going half ass with it. I may toss those in.

What's your thoughts on the front/rear trackbars? I'm guessing I'm fine with the stock front. I've heard you state reloader the front is the same length as Thuren's aftermarket at the initial setting and adjustment's really not required.

I'm going to have to come and pay you a visit colibri. It sounds like you have some very cool toys!

Doing shocks and springs is going to give you a different truck, you'll need to re familiarize yourself with it. Front boogies should be done as soon as you can afford, like said I wouldn't worry about the rear initially. Do your changes incrementally, once your used to the new ride and handling then pull a swaybar link and see how you like it. It's free to pull links and that may be all you need to do. If you find yourself liking it but wanting a little bit tighter front end, then think about the torsion bar. For me no bar felt to loose but everybody is different.

Your plan is a good one, get the springs and shocks done and enjoy. The boogie bumps are just to protect your front axle as you start to play more aggressively.

And you're welcome anytime sir.

DamageWagon wrote:when you realize when you're sitting in traffic that you can just hop over into the dirt and start bombing, you start to make some questionable decisions

Lol you're assuming I don't already do this with the stock truck. Traffic started to stack up on I35 the other day so I floored it through the neutral ground onto the service road. A guy in a 2wd ford made the same decision and barrels off the interstate right on my bumper. I notice at the last second there's about a 4'' lip from the neutral ground grass to the service road asphalt. I brace for impact but the truck sucked it up. Slammed the bumps but no loss of control. I see in my rearview his entire truck went airborne and slid off the other side of the service road. Poor guy.

I just requested a quote with lead time for the 2.5 Kings with 5/4 front/rear valving, thuren rear trackbar and front boogie bumps to go with the springs I've already ordered. That should do it...

Might be able to nudge a package deal out of that one I got 15% off my JD2 bender/dies/notcher order by asking

Awesome! You're going to love it sir!

I still run factory bumps, just saying.

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

^^^^ and Stage 6 valved 3.0's? lol

lol, yes! What can I say? I drive like a limo driver with a very heavy foot and disregard to the road conditions or lack thereof.






I feel like we went over this before, lol.

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

I went 3/2 front/rear. I don't go any where fast off road. Slower typically and I'm happy. Hell I haven't even done any wheeling with the new set up. Just have not had time

So...I waited for my 0% interest until 2019 card to arrive and plunked down this (along with transferring some other debt to it for good measure )

Any thoughts, concerns or suggestions before they start re-valving those Kings?

14+ 2500 REAR TRACKBAR KIT TF-RLR2500-TBK 1 $380.00

THUREN KING 2.5 SHOCKS - SOLD IN PAIRS-
SHOCK POSITION
FRONT REMOTE RESERVOIR - FOR 2013+ 3500 / 2014+ 2500
FRONT RESERVOIR MOUNTS
REQUIRED WHEN PURCHASING FRONT KINGS
STAINLESS STEEL SHAFTS
STAINLESS STEEL SHAFTS
VALVING TUNE OPTION
STAGE 5
TF-KING25-RA-TF-KS25F-10PP-RESMK-13U-SS

THUREN KING 2.5 SHOCKS - SOLD IN PAIRS-
SHOCK POSITION
REAR PIN-SHAFT PIGGYBACK REMOTE - FOR 2014+ 2500
REAR TRAVEL UPGRADE
(REAR ONLY) PIGGYBACK SHORT BODY OPTION +2" TRAVEL
STAINLESS STEEL SHAFTS
STAINLESS STEEL SHAFTS
VALVING TUNE OPTION
STAGE 4
TF-KING25-RA-TF-KS25R-10PP-TF-SHRTB-OPTN-SS

Hell yes! Congratulations! Awesome man, the stainless shafts are worth every penny. Short body is a great choice as well. You're going to love it. Waiting for kings is like being a kid at Christmas time though lol, it will seem like forever.

Word of caution - with that valving your truck will feel better the harder you push it, it will WANT to be flogged

Oh man I'm excited for you! Good call going stiffer! You're going to LOVE to hit stuff now. Parking lots, curbs, and small non-living objects are now there for you to charge at!