Power Wagon Registry

OK, I may have gone off the deep end already.

Disclaimer : Yes, I'm pretty much a noob, untrained, knuckle busting, only changed the oil in previous vehicles non-mechanic.
That's got to change. Found all kinds of crap hack jobs done to the last truck at the dealer.
And I've fallen victim to the mod bug. been reading lots of threads here. Ordered too much already. Amsoil, Filtermags, tailgate assist, Carli Front diff guard, Factor 55 flatlink, etc... So:

Bought all the FilterMag products.
1 for the oil filter. Think I have this one covered, but I'd sure take any tips in case I'm missing anything.

1 for the outside bottom of the transmission pan. Didn't say it on their website before I bought it, but with the instructions it says placement may interfere with the operation of trans., relocate if problems. Has anyone else here installed one of these ? Any issues ? If no issues-where did you put it ?

And finally, 1 for each Diff. Looks fairly straightforward as to removing the diff covers, except for some brackets holding brake lines on the rear.
Smaller bracket looks like it's held on by a flat retaining nut. Larger bracket not so sure, and both brackets instead of having a bolt head facing out, have threads facing out. Can anyone who has been here and done this give a little guidance as to how to remove and replace correctly without screwing up parts (Which would probably be the most likely outcome of me diving in solo) ?

Thanks

PS : Cheers and Happy Friday !

Oil filter is straightforward like you said.

Trans one I would put in the trans. There's already a magnet in there, but since you want a second one it would be best to put it where it is going to work and not get ripped off.

Taking off diff covers is straightforward. Don't use a pet at on the diff covers or you can jack up the nice flat sealing surface. Some guys run gaskets, some guys use RTV to reseal. There is a good spot inside the diffs to put the FilterMag.

Also make sure to clean your little sensor magnet while you're in there, in both diffs.


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JD 500 wrote:Can anyone who has been here and done this give a little guidance...

Don't get the magnet stuck to the ring gear.

DamageWagon wrote:Oil filter is straightforward like you said.

Trans one I would put in the trans. There's already a magnet in there, but since you want a second one it would be best to put it where it is going to work and not get ripped off.

Taking off diff covers is straightforward. Don't use a pet at on the diff covers or you can jack up the nice flat sealing surface. Some guys run gaskets, some guys use RTV to reseal. There is a good spot inside the diffs to put the FilterMag.

Also make sure to clean your little sensor magnet while you're in there, in both diffs.


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Great pics DamageWagon ! Thanks for those. Looks like magnet on left and sensor on right side of the Qtip ? Do you guys use brake clean or similar in those cases or just drain, wipe, & refill ?

For that trans magnet, inside makes way more sense. I may have to try and pull the magnets out of it's outer plastic case though as Mfr says the case is magnetic shield which would defeat purpose if used internally. It actually looks like two of the diff case magnets side by side.

Reloaderguy wrote:

JD 500 wrote:Can anyone who has been here and done this give a little guidance...

Don't get the magnet stuck to the ring gear.

Reloaderguy - I did see you mention that ring gear on your build thread ! Could have happened to anyone. But especially good warning for me ! Luckily my daughter is 17 and has already heard the sailor words .

No problem! I would highly suggest to never use brake cleaner near your locker connectors. They have enough things trying to kill them already...

Drain, wipe, fill. Nailed it.

For the trans magnets, unless they are identical to the oil filter magnets they shouldn't be shielded. Unless they were designed to be used outside the pan, in which case I would leave them outside and just put them higher up on the front.


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Yep, the trans magnet is designed to be used on outside. Just slapped her on. I can see it would be easy to get too close to say a ring gear if installing the magnet that goes into diff., The trans magnet jumped out of my hand up to the pan and I was at least 1" away from it. I see why they say to hold by edges and not have your fingers between the magnet and pan. Drove and had no issues with shifting or anything. winner.

I have them in diffs also. I also have the industrial duty one on my oil filter. Good stuff. Every time i cut a used oil filter open, at first glance it looks like there is nothing there or not much anyways-----until you take your finger tip & wipe it through. It is a super fine film that turns your finger tip silver, kinda like silver never seize.





This is from the trucks first engine oil change at 500 miles. I showed up at the dealer the day my truck arrived & had my Filter Mag with me !

TwinStick wrote:I have them in diffs also. I also have the industrial duty one on my oil filter. Good stuff. Every time i cut a used oil filter open, at first glance it looks like there is nothing there or not much anyways-----until you take your finger tip & wipe it through. It is a super fine film that turns your finger tip silver, kinda like silver never seize.





This is from the trucks first engine oil change at 500 miles. I showed up at the dealer the day my truck arrived & had my Filter Mag with me !

Good to know it's picking something up ! I was planing to cut the first one open too.

Take pics & post them up.

So tomorrow I'm planning the following maintenance on the new wagon (3400 miles) :

Change Motor oil. Install filter mag on oil filter. Fill w/ Amsoil.

Remove both diff covers. Clean magnets w/ q tip if necessary. Drain gear oil.Install GP101 Filter mags in each diff.
Re-install diff covers, adding diff guards front and rear. Fill w/ Amsoil.

Would the correct procedure be to disconnect battery first ?
Don't want to let the smoke out of anything (Or attach the magnets to ring gear)


Thanks

Disconnecting battery is a good idea.

3400 miles sound so o early to me to switch to synthetic. You might be doing some harm there.


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DamageWagon wrote:Disconnecting battery is a good idea.

3400 miles sound so o early to me to switch to synthetic. You might be doing some harm there.


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Yeah, I waited until I hit 15,000 miles to change mine out. Still, I was surprised with how much gunk was on the magnets and how dirty the fluid was. I checked my differentials the other day and the fluids levels were still just under the plugs and they weren't chocolate milk! SCORE! In fact, they still looked pretty dang golden in color!

FYI, don't get two of the GP101 magnets close together and pinch your finger between them! MOTHER OF GOD THAT HURT!!!!

DamageWagon wrote:Disconnecting battery is a good idea.

3400 miles sound so o early to me to switch to synthetic. You might be doing some harm there.


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I was assuming the oem fluids (Engine and diffs) were synthetic, no ?

It's never too early to switch to synthetic oil.

nts007 wrote:It's never too early to switch to synthetic oil.

That may be true for gears. But in an engine, if you don't let the cylinders break in and the rings to seat to the walls, and you go straight to synthetic, you will actually cause more harm because the rings will scrape too much oil off and it will go metal to metal. You should run organic oil in the engine until it is broken in and then switch. That is what I have been told, although I've never personally blown up any engines to test this lol


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DamageWagon wrote:

nts007 wrote:It's never too early to switch to synthetic oil.

That may be true for gears. But in an engine, if you don't let the cylinders break in and the rings to seat to the walls, and you go straight to synthetic, you will actually cause more harm because the rings will scrape too much oil off and it will go metal to metal. You should run organic oil in the engine until it is broken in and then switch. That is what I have been told, although I've never personally blown up any engines to test this lol


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The new trucks come with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic from the factory from my understanding. They must not be too worried about it and if that was true it would be a warranty nightmare for Chrysler. I have read on multiple occasions that is very much an old wives tale and just a misunderstanding of the differences of conventional and synthetic in an engine. I'm no engine design engineer though so I can't confirm or deny. I'm just a rocket scientist.

Hammerballs wrote:

DamageWagon wrote:

nts007 wrote:It's never too early to switch to synthetic oil.

That may be true for gears. But in an engine, if you don't let the cylinders break in and the rings to seat to the walls, and you go straight to synthetic, you will actually cause more harm because the rings will scrape too much oil off and it will go metal to metal. You should run organic oil in the engine until it is broken in and then switch. That is what I have been told, although I've never personally blown up any engines to test this lol


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The new trucks come with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic from the factory from my understanding. They must not be too worried about it and if that was true it would be a warranty nightmare for Chrysler. I have read on multiple occasions that is very much an old wives tale and just a misunderstanding of the differences of conventional and synthetic in an engine. I'm no engine design engineer though so I can't confirm or deny. I'm just a rocket scientist.

Its actually rocket engineering--the science of celestial mechanics, orbital dynamics, solid/liquid fuel boosters, & space craft is largely a well defined body of knowledge

So uh....use synthetic and never look back. Just don't use pennzoil..... Factory wants the shit to break not break in.....

nts007 wrote:So uh....use synthetic and never look back. Just don't use pennzoil..... Factory wants the shit to break not break in.....

I'm sure quality Engineers designed the engines to handle the specified PUP oil. Henry Ford doesn't work for Fiat Chrysler and he wasn't around to inject Planned Obsolescence!

As far as I know, our trucks came with full synthetic in the diffs but not the engine. Before cleaning the magnets, yes, disconnect the battery first. As far as the diffs, clean the magnets. There is no sense opening them up & not cleaning them. I use Q-tips & be very gentle when doing it. If you tow anything remotely heavy. on the highway, I suggest changing out the fluid every year and/or buying one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contac ... 60725.html to monitor the diff temps. Most people never check them at all, ever. You would be surprised at some of the diff temps, when towing, on a hot day. I once recorded 315*F.

TwinStick wrote:As far as I know, our trucks came with full synthetic in the diffs but not the engine. Before cleaning the magnets, yes, disconnect the battery first. As far as the diffs, clean the magnets. There is no sense opening them up & not cleaning them. I use Q-tips & be very gentle when doing it. If you tow anything remotely heavy. on the highway, I suggest changing out the fluid every year and/or buying one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contac ... 60725.html to monitor the diff temps. Most people never check them at all, ever. You would be surprised at some of the diff temps, when towing, on a hot day. I once recorded 315*F.

Are you speaking of past gen PWs? The current 6.4L Hemi PWs are speced to use 0W-40 full synthetic with that particular Chrysler certification which only the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mopar branded equivalent have. You are saying the trucks were not delivered with that oil in the engine?

By "our trucks" Tein is referring to a dinosaur. So it makes sense that it runs on dinosaur oil


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Look at my sig. It says what I have.

Yes twin a REAL truck. Not these pansy 2014-2017 prissy trucks that only want fine synthetic snobby wine.....
Our trucks take real mans BEER Brand Oil!!!

TwinStick wrote:Look at my sig. It says what I have.

Lol! Just clarifying for my own knowledge. Your signature doesn't appear on my Android phone Tapatalk app.