Power Wagon Registry

Hello all. So I have developed a very annoying and embarrassing squeak coming from under my vehicle. Initially I suspected something rubbing at the rotors or perhaps front u-joints after my recent mudding experience. This morning I was able to jack up each wheel to troubleshoot, and it wasn't anything up front. So, I jacked up entire back-end and put truck in drive and at idle got under to pinpoint, and the squeak is coming from, what seems, the middle of the driveshaft, which makes zero sense to me. I shut truck off, and got back under there and turned it by hand and sure enough as it gets to a certain position, it makes a squeak. This squeak is louder and more prominent under acceleration or heavy braking, when pressure it being put on the driveshaft. Once up to about 10-15 mph it is no longer noticeable and comes back when slowing down again, happens in reverse too. So, I'm puzzled and hoped yall can help. Is it one of both u-joints and the sound is just being "moved/reflected/bounced" to the middle of driveshaft due to acoustics? I also noticed that a long time ago when I was still fine-tuning my suspension heights, my driveshaft had contacted skid plate by fuel tank and scraped it up, but now I just noticed it ripped off a weight at that end, so obviously my driveshaft is probably not balanced, but I don't notice anything while driving at any speed related to driveshaft being off balance. I don't see any obvious damage or corrosion in the u-joints either. Anyways, I'm just baffled. Any idea's. The video is below. Please disregard my saying differential instead of driveshaft at one point there.

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The very first thing I'd do is unbolt the drive shaft and move the U-Joints by hand. I would think that is a bad joint resonating through the shaft.

Yes. U joint. One or both, but at least one. The sound is travelling through the shaft. Are either of them rusty? That's a dead giveaway.

FirerescuePW wrote:Yes. U joint. One or both, but at least one. The sound is travelling through the shaft. Are either of them rusty? That's a dead giveaway.

What about me? I'm not dead!

What Mike means is, look at the u-joint cross. If you see red rust around the cup seals. The u-joint is dead.

Yeah, what the dead guy said.

Brandon,

Yeah, that's irritating for sure. You're correct, obviously the center of that cylinder is not creating sound itself, and it's not rubbing against anything either, thus, the sound is being transmitted along the hollow shaft like one of those cool rain sticks you get at Disney (resonant chamber) the source must inextricably be located at either end's attachment joint, sounds like slight binding.

Ok, thanks yall. So, stupid question now, as I completely forgot to look closely while under there, can we replace just the u-joints, or does it have to be whole driveshaft? I know if I'm replacing driveshaft I'm going to a Tom Woods to get rid of this aluminum one, plus they are skinnier, but still stronger. If replacing only u-joints, by chance yall have part numbers? Are front or rear same or different? If no part numbers known, as we know on 98% of auto parts websites, Powerwagon is not an option to choose from, so would a 2500 still be the correct part?

Best I can't tell, same part number.
http://www.buymoparpartsnow.com/dodge/r ... sal-joints

If they haven't been changed before you will have to take a torch and melt the retaining plastic out of the joints. The new joints will have snap rings/circlips to hold them in place.

Or PB and a U Joint press. I wouldn't put a torch to an aluminum drive shaft.

Torch on the ujoints cups and on the housing doesn't hurt a thing. The alum driveshafts are pretty damn good. My 3500 dually has one. Was real nice changing ujoints being that it didn't weight a ton!! I put the joint in the press and apply 3-5 tons or so of pressure. Then heat it up with the torch and whack it with hammer. Gives a good pop that takes u by surprise. Then do it 3 more times. Then you best sand out the inside of the housing to clean up the crap left behind. New joints go in easy.

FirerescuePW wrote:Yeah, what the dead guy said.

If I'm dead. Then you will have Ace sleeping in your camper next year at Rausch Creek.

Thanks for all the advice, you guys rock! Where would we be without this Powerwagon forum.

dodgeman324 wrote:Thanks for all the advice, you guys rock! Where would we be without this Powerwagon forum.

Driving a Prius.....





On 40's!!

Hey yall, adding to this thread because I think it's related. Would the above said bad u-joints also make a crackling sound under heavier acceleration, or when towing a trailer? This wasn't present when I started this thread, but now there are new noises coming under acceleration, and the best word to use is crackling.

It's the needle bearings in the u-joints.

Just replace it before it blows.

Yup U-joint time here's some info on them, the mopar shop manual says to replace the bolts has well.

Mopar Part Number: 68003521AB (supersedes 68003521AA)
Flange Bolt PN: 06506497AA

Rear Axle Universal Joint PNs
CARQUEST : 3-0415
Neapco: 3-0415 (may need a 2-0054 neapco if the 3-0415 doesn't fit)
SKF: 3-0415
PRECISION: 330A
CHRYSLER: 68003521AB (4WD)
Spicer: 5-3207X (AAM 1415)

Universal Joint Style:American Axle 1415
Bearing Cap Style:4 plain
Bearing Cap Diameter (in) Axis 1:1.188 in.
Width Overall (in) Axis 1:4.187 in.
Bearing Cap Diameter (in) Axis 2:1.188 in.
Width Overall (in) Axis 2:4.187 in.

Thank you all. I have two u-joints ordered and coming this week. I'm taking it easy on the skinny pedal this week (hard for me to do) to avoid breaking one before I can get it done. Additionally, the weather has finally got to a comfortable place so I'll be riding my bike more to work each day.

Don't fret over u-joints. Any noise, replace them first. Good insurance. I've had em go bad in as little as 18,000 miles !!! If you still have noise, at least you started with the cheapest & most common problem.

I am not a fan of stock alum d-shafts at all. We must have had a dozen people at work with stock alum shafts, go bad. street only, no off-road. A few exploded in the middle & did major damage, like ripped clear through the bottom of the bed & left a gaping hole in the bed, broke trans tail housings, cracked transfer case, etc... I have never heard of that on a steel d-shaft unless it was damaged off road.

Thanks a lot TwinStick, now I'm worried out of my mind driving to and from work everyday. Riding my motorcycle on days I can. But yeah, I've seen a couple of videos and some post-breakage pictures of snapped driveshafts and it is not pretty by any means. Now, my driveshafts came in yesterday, but I live in an apartment and can't work on my truck in the parking lot, and I have to work out a time to go to a friends house to do them, or take it to a shop, but in the meantime, I'm curious if anyone has ever, temporarily, just removed driveshaft and ran front wheel drive only for a few days. I understand the risk as the front is not near as able to take the full weight of the truck in city/highway driving, so even IF I considering doing that to prevent breaking rear, can it be done? I know I would need to take it extremely easy on acceleration so that I don't break axle shafts, gears, or front driveshaft. Anywho, just curious, not saying I'm gonna do it.

Not to mention, I am trying to sell the truck right now so breaking something else would totally screw up that plan.

I had a friend with a 2G 1500 drive around with the rear drive shaft removed. He put a dixie cup and duct tape over the hole for the slip yoke. Drove around in 4Hi.

I drove CJ5 from Sacramento to San Diego on just the front drive line after loosing a rear ujoint on interstate 5 in the dark and pouring rain.

RustyPW wrote:I had a friend with a 2G 1500 drive around with the rear drive shaft removed. He put a dixie cup and duct tape over the hole for the slip yoke. Drove around in 4Hi.

Basically done the same thing but used a cap that fit inside the rubber. Used electrical tape to build it up to make tight fit. Shoved it in and ran for a week in 4hi. No issues.