Dual Battery Installation 2016 PW

[Bigskyguy1976]

Has anyone done a dual battery installation on their 2016 PW? If so, any experience or comments regarding National Luna isolators? Any installation photos? Thoughts on other brands?

Intent of isolation: Isolate a dedicated starting battery which can be brought online if needed to help with winching. Isolate a battery for Overland refer/ freezer (National Luna or Engel)

Thanks,

Curtis

[TwinStick]

Dual batteries make ALL the difference when winching. I did it on my 08' but used the K.I.S.S. method (keep it simple stupid). It has worked wonderfully for me.

30' of 2/0 Gauge welding cable
4 cable lugs of appropriate size
1 extra battery, box & hold down
1 350 amp Anderson Power pole plug (you need 2 halves), plug covers & handle. http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-power ... 0-amp.html

I soldered the lugs on the cable myself. Put red elec tape every 6-12" on the entire length of + cable. Used wire loom over both to protect it better. Double zip tied it to top of frame rail every 12". Put the Anderson power pole plug close to aux battery. When i need it, i just plug it in. When i dont, it's unplugged. If you want to charge it, plug it in or use a battery charger. I can also jump start myself with this set up---providing the aux battery is unplugged when truck battery is discharging to zero. Simple & effective.

[LagunaH1]

Dual batteries make ALL the difference when winching.

Curious: Assuming the engine is running, I would have thought the alternator could supply enough current to winch for quite a while? -Definitely a PW N00b question

[ramv]

Depending on load, the winch can draw over 400 amps. The base PW alternator at max rpm is 180 amps. Now if you have the oem dual alternators, and keep the revs up, the single battery should work great.

I have done a lot of winching with my 2nd gen (even front and rear winch at the same time) with a just the stock offroad package alternator (160 or 180 amps, can't recall) and a crappy Optima red top with out any issue. Just need to keep the revs up and when the volts drop below 11.5 or so, let the winch (es) cool and recharge the battery.

[LagunaH1]

Depending on load, the winch can draw over 400 amps. The base PW alternator at max rpm is 180 amps. Now if you have the oem dual alternators, and keep the revs up, the single battery should work great.

I have done a lot of winching with my 2nd gen (even front and rear winch at the same time) with a just the stock offroad package alternator (160 or 180 amps, can't recall) and a crappy Optima red top with out any issue. Just need to keep the revs up and when the volts drop below 11.5 or so, let the winch (es) cool and recharge the battery.

Sorry if this is a bit of a thread-jack but: Is it possible to upgrade to the dual alternator setup on a truck which wasn't equipped with it from the factory?

[Reloaderguy]

Yes but it can be prohibitively expensive depending on what base alternator you have. If you don't have a 220A you have to buy both alternators in addition to the mounting parts, belt, harness, etc. You also need to have the sales code added by a service tech.

I asked a vendor on another forum for the parts to upgrade, here is the thread: http://www.ramforum.com/f133/ram_2500_3 ... tor-80399/

[Ducky's Dad]

any experience or comments regarding National Luna isolators?

There have been some threads on Expedition Postal reporting problems with the National Luna. Aside from that, NL is very expensive. Most of the Expo guys prefer the automatic charging relay from Blue Sea Systems, or a simple switch arrangement without the ACR. Any ACR is a potential point of failure. My '05 PW has three batteries, with an Odyssey 31M in the engine compartment and a pair of Optima Marine 34s under the cab. Isolation is through a Painless Performance solenoid switched from a toggle on the dash, and I have a Blue Sea rotary switch in the back seat (under the fridge) to control which (or both) of the Optimas is powering the fridge. With that combination, I can switch any or all of the batteries into the starting, charging, or winching modes. Nothing is automatic. My system would be simpler, but less convenient, if I just used Blue Sea switches without the solenoid. But then I wouldn't be able to switch things from the dash.

[Reloaderguy]

Do you have a picture of your battery mount? I'm not sure how to mount the auxiliary battery without second battery tray in the engine bay. I am installing a truck cap and may just mount it to the bed under a bed system but I'd rather not if I can help it.

[LagunaH1]

Yes but it can be prohibitively expensive depending on what base alternator you have. If you don't have a 220A you have to buy both alternators in addition to the mounting parts, belt, harness, etc. You also need to have the sales code added by a service tech.

I asked a vendor on another forum for the parts to upgrade, here is the thread: http://www.ramforum.com/f133/ram_2500_3 ... tor-80399/

Hmm.... Maybe a better option would be to just go to the 220 A alternator and leave it at that

[Ducky's Dad]

Hmm.... Maybe a better option would be to just go to the 220 A alternator and leave it at that

And an even better alternative might be the 270amp alternator from DC Power Engineering. It uses factory mounts, pulley size and serpentine belt size, so an easy upgrade. And it's gotta be cheaper than a new factory alternator. DCPE has even higher output alternators, but last time I looked, you lose the ability to use a stock belt. A few of us (me included) have the 270 and like it.

[Ducky's Dad]

Do you have a picture of your battery mount?

Currently have two batteries mounted to the frame rail under the passenger seat. Used boxes that I bought from Summit Racing, then modified them with some angle iron so they could hang from the top of the frame rail, bolted through with 1/2" Grade 8 bolts. Tucked them up as high as I could to protect them, but also added angle iron to the bottom of the box to take any impacts. Battery cable sheathed in milsurp kevlar braid and routed to engine compartment through inside of frame. So far, no problems.

Another alternative is to mount the battery behind the grill on a cradle fabbed to bolt the the lower core support. I mounted my compressor to the cradle, but test fitted for batteries before I bolted in the compressor. Can easily fit two Grp 34 Optimas in my 3G.

[Reloaderguy]

Yes but it can be prohibitively expensive depending on what base alternator you have. If you don't have a 220A you have to buy both alternators in addition to the mounting parts, belt, harness, etc. You also need to have the sales code added by a service tech.

I asked a vendor on another forum for the parts to upgrade, here is the thread: http://www.ramforum.com/f133/ram_2500_3 ... tor-80399/

Hmm.... Maybe a better option would be to just go to the 220 A alternator and leave it at that

My truck came with a 220A alternator, I'm pretty sure yours did as well.

[ramv]

Stock PW (2015+ anyway) is 180 amps. 220 was a $100 option. Dual alternators were a $395 option.

[TwinStick]

I personally would have gotten both options for 440 amps total. Our winch can draw 440 amps at full load. That is a LOT of draw. And, about alternators........the rated amp ratings are VERY deceiving, because that rating can/may be at 6-7000 rpms & who the hell would run at 6000-7000 rpms ??? I also have a DCPE 270 amp alt. . The difference is IDLE amps. A stock alt may only put out 60 amps at idle. DCPE specifically makes theirs to be MUCH better at idle. Mine is now 199 amps at idle vs the 40-60 amps at idle with the stock 160 amp alt. And they make full power sooner in the rpm range.

[Reloaderguy]

I personally would have gotten both options for 440 amps total. Our winch can draw 440 amps at full load. That is a LOT of draw. And, about alternators........the rated amp ratings are VERY deceiving, because that rating can/may be at 6-7000 rpms & who the hell would run at 6000-7000 rpms ??? I also have a DCPE 270 amp alt. . The difference is IDLE amps. A stock alt may only put out 60 amps at idle. DCPE specifically makes theirs to be MUCH better at idle. Mine is now 199 amps at idle vs the 40-60 amps at idle with the stock 160 amp alt. And they make full power sooner in the rpm range.

That is 8000 RPM's of the alternator. The 5.7L/6.4L has a 2.9:1 pulley so peak alternator output is at 2750 engine RPM. From idle, the 220A alternator put out over 100A. You can swap a 3.22:1 diesel pulley to reduce engine RPM to 2400 for peak alternator output. I assume your HO alternator has a lower engine RPM peak output because they used a smaller pulley.

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2015/docs ... outcrv.pdf

I thought the SLT PW came with a 220A alternator standard but it looks like I was mistaken. I have the 220A in my build but I have a different trim level. If you have to upgrade the base alternator, the dual OEM system is pretty expensive since the 220A alternator is over $500 by itself. If you already have a 220A, the duals makes a lot of sense because the cost is somewhat lower.

[Bigskyguy1976]

Damn, I wish I knew about the dual alt's before I traded out the 2012 for the 2016PW. grrrrrr.....

[dogcar3]

http://www.offroadengineering.com/produ ... rling.html

I have the HIC-300 high idle kit on my truck for stationary winching (stumps and such) and it is awesome. I can be watching the stump and using my wireless remote and have the truck at 2k rpms.

I also have a second battery in my 12. I just used the second tray from a diesel and a 300 amp relay that connects with ignition. All my accessories, including my winch, are hooked to the second battery so I keep the primary full for starting.

[Will]

Would this one be a good upgrade for a 2010? http://www.mechman.com/alternators/chry ... -v8-07-10/

Could you use this one? http://www.mechman.com/alternators/dodg ... l-cummins/

[LagunaH1]

So,

Let's assume I go get an after market alternator, for example the 270 Amp version mentioned earlier in the thread.

Can the trucks electrical system handle that much current?

[Ducky's Dad]

Let's assume I go get an after market alternator, for example the 270 Amp version mentioned earlier in the thread.

Can the trucks electrical system handle that much current?

Yes, no problem. I think they have installation instructions on the website, but it's pretty straightforward. Bolt it on, and run a new cable across the firewall to the battery positive terminal, with a big inline fuse. I think they recommend 1/0 for the cable, but I used 3/0 because I have a bunch of it. Good idea to increase the ground cable at the same time. On my 3G there is a ground cable from the negative terminal to the frame in the L/F wheel well, and that's the easiest one to get to. You can either make up a fat ground to replace that, or siamese a decent standard cable with the factory cable and zip-tie them together.

When I ordered my DCPE 270, they were backordered, but Nation's Alternator had them on the shelf ready to ship.

[Reloaderguy]

Someone might want to contact one of the aftermarket companies because the new systems are computer controlled and require sales codes when switching from one size alternator to another. The duals don't work until the sales codes are changed by a service tech.

[LagunaH1]

Someone might want to contact one of the aftermarket companies because the new systems are computer controlled and require sales codes when switching from one size alternator to another. The duals don't work until the sales codes are changed by a service tech.

Interesting.... wonder why they make the trucks that way...... -The first and obvious thought is that they (FCA?) are trying to make life hard for the after market guys....

[Ducky's Dad]

Mine is an '05, pre can bus. No issues.

[TwinStick]

Mine is an 08'. 270 amp (199 @ idle) DCPE. direct plug in, no issues. In addition to the direct plug in stock wiring, I ran 2/0 Ga welding cable w/300 amp fuse to the + battery cable of stock battery. They do recommend 1/0 Ga, but when you jump from 2/0 to 1/0 welding cable, the price per foot jumps by 3-4X. Mine has never got hot, even when winching, so i am not worried. It is plenty thick & has 856 individual strand of copper in it. The 2/0 is like 3-4 X thicker than stock wire to winch.

[LagunaH1]

Interesting / odd that DCPE doesn't list anything past 2012 model year. I'll try and give them a call this week and see how they feel about the current generation PW


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