Smartbar part #

[Glenn5995]

Does anyone know if part #52121238AD is the Smartbar part # for all 3G Power Wagons or are there different #s for different years? On DT there was a thread with this debate, but I did not see if it was ever positively decided. Thanks.

[trk4sale]

That's the part# for the one I put on my 05 truck. Should be good for yours also.

[VA_Wagon Man]

There are different smart bars for different years. It has to do with a different canbus and electronics inside, they all function the same and look identical, just utilize different electronics. Pitslave is the guru on this topic.

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[Glenn5995]

Does anyone know what the correct part # is for a 2006 PW?

[coder]

The 06 smartbar PN is # 56029412AB.

[Glenn5995]

Thank you!

[Glenn5995]

WHAT!!!!

$251.85 for a Smartbar for a 2005

http://www.mmaautoparts.com/52121238ad.html

and $1932.00 for a Smartbar for a 2006!!

http://www.mmaautoparts.com/56029412ab.html

Is that right?

[coder]

Yep... I think they must have filled it with gold from 06 up... geez louise!!!

[06powerwagon06]

Didn't someone find the smart bar on one of the mopar parts online sites for way cheaper?

[Pit Slave]

Pm me your last 9 digits of your vin and I'll get you a pn with expected price. 2k just sounds dumb.

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[coder]

Didn't someone find the smart bar on one of the mopar parts online sites for way cheaper?

$1932.00 is the discounted online price the regular MSRP is $2800.00

[06powerwagon06]

[vanished]

Wow! Time to convert it to manual...

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[GunniPWguy]

Wow! Time to convert it to manual...

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No doubt. That can't be how much it costs.

[angusdevil]

Want me to call my Mopar supplier tomorrow to get the real skinny on the parts? That's one thing I've learned over the past few months is that online prices associated with part numbers are all FUBAR!

[Pit Slave]

Want me to call my Mopar supplier tomorrow to get the real skinny on the parts? That's one thing I've learned over the past few months is that online prices associated with part numbers are all FUBAR!

I'll let you try it because what i got was not much better even my contact was confused, it seemed waay out of range. the cheapest i could get was dealer invoice @ $1680 that PN is 56029412AB

The only thing I could think of is that's when they were changing over from different bus speeds in the computer and what you have is a crossover system that was on a limited run of trucks.

[angusdevil]

I'll ask them on Monday. Gotta call them anyway to order 4 sets of Mopar steering and a couple new steering boxes

[GunniPWguy]

This is not good. I haven't looked yet but is this the same scenario for all PW's after 05? 2k smartbar?

[BlkWgn]

hoping to hear better news on the 06, I may have to do mine as well

[FirerescuePW]

The good news is that little manual thingy from Evo (I think) is only about $60 from what I heard. Plus the 2 switches you will need to engage the lockers after you remove the electronics.

On a similar note, I can't remember where, or find, the thread with the PW parts list that TwinStick started. Can anyone help me out?

[AceMan]

These are pics of the 2006 PW smart bar parts.

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[Glenn5995]

Thanks everyone for your help. My stabilizer bar still disconnects, it is my lockers which are not working. I believe the problem is in the Smartbar, the rear locker light is flashing all the time.

Thanks AceMan for the parts breakdown. I was under the impression the Smartbar had to be ordered as a whole unit. You can apparently order the actuator PN #68044412AA separate, although it appears to be most of the cost at $1460.50, but still $471.50 less than ordering the whole bar.

http://www.mmaautoparts.com/nsearch.htm ... 5101927010

I know there have been those which have wired the lockers separately, I'll have to search the threads. Does anyone recall someone wiring the lockers separately from the Smartbar, but still using the OEM switch to activate them? I am pretty good at mechanical repairs, but am clueless at electronics.

Thanks again!

[AceMan]

That I can't answer. I do know, and I think you are aware of it, that eerything goes through the smartbar. If that doesn't work, then no signal will go to the lockers.

I know that it's possible to "trick" the computer playing around with the bar's wiring, but that takes a little electronic component and circuitry knowledge (diodes, resistors, etc). I've heard of others just disconnecting it from the computer and hard wiring it back to the dash with a dedicated switch for the bar, front locker and rear lockers. There are two hots going to each, if I remember, a low voltage and a high voltage. One's for a sensor, and the other is the actuator. Someone had posted a breakdown of those parts on a DT thread somewhere (buried among thousands of threads by now), so I can't help there.

If it's still under warrranty, you have the option to take it to the dealer. I don't think you need the whole unit. I know that's how they sell it, but it's possible to possibly just clean it out and put some dielectric grease in there, which is what I've seen others do. Maybe someone else can give you more specifics on this, such as Pit, Russ, Eric, etc.

[cruz]

I know that it's possible to "trick" the computer playing around with the bar's wiring, but that takes a little electronic component and circuitry knowledge (diodes, resistors, etc). I've heard of others just disconnecting it from the computer and hard wiring it back to the dash with a dedicated switch for the bar, front locker and rear lockers. There are two hots going to each, if I remember, a low voltage and a high voltage. One's for a sensor, and the other is the actuator. Someone had posted a breakdown of those parts on a DT thread somewhere (buried among thousands of threads by now), so I can't help there.

We know it can be done and it seems we're getting closer all the time. The key is getting the proper voltage from the hard wire into the axle ...
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=361532
I wish I knew more about electronics.

[AceMan]

I know that it's possible to "trick" the computer playing around with the bar's wiring, but that takes a little electronic component and circuitry knowledge (diodes, resistors, etc). I've heard of others just disconnecting it from the computer and hard wiring it back to the dash with a dedicated switch for the bar, front locker and rear lockers. There are two hots going to each, if I remember, a low voltage and a high voltage. One's for a sensor, and the other is the actuator. Someone had posted a breakdown of those parts on a DT thread somewhere (buried among thousands of threads by now), so I can't help there.

We know it can be done and it seems we're getting closer all the time. The key is getting the proper voltage from the hard wire into the axle ...
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=361532
I wish I knew more about electronics.

Wow, that's a heck of a build. I replied to that thread. I don't think the electronics are that hard, as long as the wiring diagrams are available. I see he posted the locker wiring, which is what he used to hardwire them.