Power Wagon Registry

I understand that the factory Power Wagon Wheel is a quality wheel for many reasons, but I'm thinking about a change. The problem I have, is I don't want to waste money on a wheel that is going to look nice, but be made of poor quality material. In fact, the only wheel I've seen that I would swap to over stock is the AEV Slata HD Wheel in Onyx Color (more grey than black). So I thought I'd check with the local experts here on the registry to get different wheel thoughts. So let's have it- what are everybody's wheel thoughts?

If you are changing for looks, then ignore my comments. If you want improved function, there are only two choices that I am aware of:
1. A set of Hummer H2 wheels with the center holes bored out to accommodate the Dodge hubs.
2. A set of true beadlocks, preferably with a DOT approval.

Ducky's Dad wrote:If you are changing for looks, then ignore my comments. If you want improved function, there are only two choices that I am aware of:
1. A set of Hummer H2 wheels with the center holes bored out to accommodate the Dodge hubs.
2. A set of true beadlocks, preferably with a DOT approval.

Just out of curiosity, what improved function do the H2 wheels provide? I know it's a popular choice but I haven't really looked into it. I do like the AEV wheels myself. Thanks. Adam

The following wheels offer looks, but more important, functionality. All are well known in the off road racing industry.

Method Race Wheels
TrailReady Wheels
PM Truck Wheels
Fuel (forged) wheels
Raceline wheels
Walker Evans racing wheels

Adam_C wrote:

Ducky's Dad wrote:If you are changing for looks, then ignore my comments. If you want improved function, there are only two choices that I am aware of:
1. A set of Hummer H2 wheels with the center holes bored out to accommodate the Dodge hubs.
2. A set of true beadlocks, preferably with a DOT approval.

Just out of curiosity, what improved function do the H2 wheels provide? I know it's a popular choice but I haven't really looked into it. I do like the AEV wheels myself. Thanks. Adam

A more favorable offset when going to a taller tire.

The H2 is a wider wheel. Has the same tire retention bead/lip and is offset a bit to the outside (+-0.5"). So the added wheel width does not interfere with the suspension or the sway bar. Most other wheels force you into a 18" size with a much wider offset. Your 35/12.50 17 tire will be nearly flush with the fender flares and have a much flatter contact patch profile. Most of the other aftermarket wheels are too much offset and leave the tire hanging way out. The only other wheel that I have seen with a close to OEM offset is a special order Centerline wheel, I think Rusty went with those.

I got five H2 wheels on Craig's list with four H2 and four Dodge center caps with the wheel centers cut to fit already. I cut down those caps to fit and kept my OEM wheels and caps. The H2 wheel looks good painted too.

The H2 wheel is nearly as strong as the OEM PW wheel too. Many of the aftermarket wheels bend or break far easier. On DTX they have not broken a PW or H2 wheel but have bent both. The aftermarket wheels all have broken under their severe abuse. Yes even the Method wheels. Do we need all that strength... Likely not IMHO.

Note however that if you don't have the .5" longer arms you may need to trim the bottom of the fender flare near the cab to prevent contact when the wheels are turned. Otherwise they are a great cost effective choice.
.

I must be honest, I like the AEV wheels but that's a ton more money than I'm willing to spend. I think I paid $400 or $450 for all 5 of mine already cut to fit with 4 each of H2 and Dodge caps. They go for between $75 and $100 each around here.

The following wheels offer looks, but more important, functionality. All are well known in the off road racing industry.

Method Race Wheels
TrailReady Wheels
PM Truck Wheels
Fuel (forged) wheels
Raceline wheels
Walker Evans racing wheels

Race wheels are not necessarily appropriate for a PW that is actually used as the PW was intended. Race trucks are light, sometimes extremely light. That's because they are meant to go really fast and have minimal unsprung weight, meaning true race wheels are as light as they can get away with. Power Wagons are heavy, really heavy. Pro-2 race trucks start at 3750 pounds, while Trophy trucks go 5000-6000 pounds. My PW is north of 8000 pounds, depending on how I load it. So, it's more than twice the weight of a Pro-2, and at least one-third heavier than a big Trophy truck. Race trucks do not generally air down for sand and snow and mud, so the internal beadlock on the PW and H2 wheels is not really an issue for them. Real beadlocks will hold the tire on the rim, but also make it a lot easier to repair or change a tire when you don't have a tire shop in the back of your truck. The PW and the H2 wheels are both forged, and most true race wheels are forged. Some of the racer lookalikes are castings. You do not want cast wheels on a PW.

I did think of another solution to the wheel dilemma, but it's not cheap. Get whatever wheels you think are right for the truck and then add a set of Staun internal beadlocks, at about $800 for a set of four.

Re the 18" aftermarket wheels, they will work for most use, but you will give up ride compliance and offroad traction because of the shorter sidewalls. Onroad, you will see more responsive steering and slightly better cornering, because of the reduced squirm associated with the shorter sidewall. Offroad, you will have a greater chance of breaking something or bending a wheel.

A true beadlock wheel is not street legal, atleast in CA last I checked. Then again, what isn't illegal here? You can mount and balance them just fine but if any Highway Patrol officer knows what he's looking at you'll get a ticket. With that said, I ran them for years on a chase truck and never had an issue (along with race-only tires, fuel cell, and exhaust cutouts).

Plenty of heavy trucks, think Kent Kroeker's KORE class 8, run race wheels through terrain far more punishing than any of our trucks will ever see. Cast wheels are light but break, forged wheels are heavy but merely bend when pushed beyond their limit and can be fixed. Walker Evans and Method both make great cast wheels, Walkers being heavier and stronger from my experience. However, the best wheels on the market, in my opinion, are Robby Gordon wheels. They are pressure-cast, meaning they are light and strong, and they look great too. The price tag is high but they are a quality wheel. The 3000 car I drive used to split Walker wheels in half, we've ran the same Robby wheels for 3 years now without issue. My PW, however, will soon have Method NV's simply because I like the offset and design of the wheel. I don't plan to race Baja in my truck so I can't justify the price tag of Walkers or Robbys.

I went the H2 route and really like the look and fitment of the wheel. Wider wheel accommodates the 35x12.5 tire (very minimal rub on full lock in reverse/easy to pull or trim liner) and looks great with the offset, sits almost flush with the wheel wells. As others said I can still air down with the internal beadlock and its plenty strong. Paid $225 for a set of 4 on CL, so they can be had for cheap too!

Crappy pic of them on a 4G:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8oza15eqxhw58 ... 0.jpg?dl=0

Powder coat a set of H2 wheels with Dodge center caps and nobody will know that they are not the froo froo race wheels. Except the people who count. Us. And we are the only ones who really matter.

[/quote]
Race wheels are not necessarily appropriate for a PW that is actually used as the PW was intended. Race trucks are light, sometimes extremely light. That's because they are meant to go really fast and have minimal unsprung weight, meaning true race wheels are as light as they can get away with. Power Wagons are heavy, really heavy. Pro-2 race trucks start at 3750 pounds, while Trophy trucks go 5000-6000 pounds. My PW is north of 8000 pounds, depending on how I load it. So, it's more than twice the weight of a Pro-2, and at least one-third heavier than a big Trophy truck. Race trucks do not generally air down for sand and snow and mud, so the internal beadlock on the PW and H2 wheels is not really an issue for them. Real beadlocks will hold the tire on the rim, but also make it a lot easier to repair or change a tire when you don't have a tire shop in the back of your truck. The PW and the H2 wheels are both forged, and most true race wheels are forged. Some of the racer lookalikes are castings. You do not want cast wheels on a PW.

I did think of another solution to the wheel dilemma, but it's not cheap. Get whatever wheels you think are right for the truck and then add a set of Staun internal beadlocks, at about $800 for a set of four.

Re the 18" aftermarket wheels, they will work for most use, but you will give up ride compliance and offroad traction because of the shorter sidewalls. Onroad, you will see more responsive steering and slightly better cornering, because of the reduced squirm associated with the shorter sidewall. Offroad, you will have a greater chance of breaking something or bending a wheel.[/quote]


The OP has not stated what he will be doing with his PW, so all we can do is assume, and let's assume the extreme. You brought up many good points. The inner bead lock for instance. However, The wheels I posted, are all proven under weekend warrior diesel powered trucks (heavier than ours). CJC OffRoad, as well as, 8 Luck Truck Gear sell some, if not all, of these wheels. Both, Carli, and Thuren, have used those wheels for many R&D hours.this includes jumping said diesel powered trucks. Yes, some are cast, but in every day driving with big tires, or, even mild to moderate off road they are proven. Playing in the rocks is a different story, and yes, bead locks are preferable, or our inner locks at the very least.
I have nothing against the stock pw wheels, or the H2 wheels. They are both a fine and proven wheel, as well. Its just nice to have options.

The wheels I posted, are all proven under weekend warrior diesel powered trucks (heavier than ours). CJC OffRoad, as well as, 8 Luck Truck Gear sell some, if not all, of these wheels. Both, Carli, and Thuren, have used those wheels for many R&D hours.

My 3G PW is heavier than most 3G CTDs, but it is distributed differently. I discussed this with Thuren and Carli before I did my suspension upgrades last summer. Having dealt with CJC and spoken with 8 Lug, I am not real sure I trust their opinion more than my own. OP asked for opinions, he got some. He can do whatever he wants. A good part of my aversion to the racer wheels is that they are a lot of money for zero improvement in function, and if not selected carefully can actually make the truck worse. Just my two cents.

2011RPW wrote:.

The OP has not stated what he will be doing with his PW, so all we can do is assume

That's a very good point, and one I didn't think about. I was more curious about the best overall option, and didn't want it to be just specific to me. My truck is probably the most gently used Power Wagon on the forum, but I'd rather have too much truck than not enough. I thought this would be a good topic for discussion as there are many different members with different uses for their truck.

I'm not real sure what you are after with wheels, other than a different looking wheel than stock, and a wheel strong enough to use on your truck. There are plenty of 17" wheels with an appropriate offset. Here is a picture of the truck I had two trucks before my Power Wagon. It was a Cummins diesel with a 2" lift, which means it was about the same height as a stock Power Wagon, and I ran 35" Toyo MTs. The wheels were 17x9 KMC Addicts, with a +18 offset (5.71" backspacing). The offset was perfect for a Ram 2500 truck. The load capacity for these wheels is 3200 lbs each, or 12,800 lbs for the set of four, or about 4,400 lbs more than the a Power Wagon's GVWR. This truck spent a lot of time off road, and I never had any problems with the wheels. For what it is worth, the only set of wheels I have broken, was a set of AEV wheels I had on a JK. I'm not sure AEV wheels are any better than other wheels. Anyway, this picture may give you an idea of some other wheel choices.

I've got CenterLine wheels. 17x9 with 5.25" back spacing. You can get them with different back spacing. It's a forged wheel, with a 3200 lbs load rating. I've beat the crap out of mind, and they are still going.

http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_deta ... sw_id=1079

I've been using the Hutchinson beadlocks for about 4 years now, 17x8.5 5.28" backspace 3200lb load rating no rubbing control arms with 35x12.50r17 or 37x13.50r17 Toyo MTs and true double bead retention. I've beaten them mercilessly and never a hiccup. DOT approved as well. In my opinion from the standpoint of pure utilitarian function there isn't a better wheel for our trucks

Here are some sweet wheels you could add to your list for Santa.



Seriously though, choosing wheels is totally a personal preference. I am pretty sure just about any wheel you could bolt on to your truck would be plenty strong enough for your use, so just choose one that you like the looks of and go with that. The main thing I would keep in mind when choosing a wheel is the width and backspacing.

If I could have any custom wheel on a PW, they would look just like the factory one's but they would be an inch wider and have about 1" less backspacing. There's just something about factory wheels.

Personally if I didn't have the pw wheels as an option I would do the h2 rims with staun internal bead locks. Gives you a true run flat. Yes you drill the wheel but I like the fact that it's light and easy to balance. Unlike a bunch of the double beadlock setups. It's really hard to beat the pw or h2 rims without spending a huge amount of money to get the correct backspace and fitment. I'd rather spend the money I save on tires. As it is I keep adding the staun bead locks to cart just haven't hit checkout yet. Also stay with the 17-18" size. 17" gives you a huge assortment of tire choices. Plus with 37's lots of flex and tire when aired down. Less so with 20's and 35's eh

olyelr wrote:Here are some sweet wheels you could add to your list for Santa.

I want a spare set to have some bias off-road aggressive tires for hunting. My factory set is beat up and scratched up now.

Colibri wrote:I've been using the Hutchinson beadlocks for about 4 years now, 17x8.5 5.28" backspace 3200lb load rating no rubbing control arms with 35x12.50r17 or 37x13.50r17 Toyo MTs and true double bead retention. I've beaten them mercilessly and never a hiccup. DOT approved as well. In my opinion from the standpoint of pure utilitarian function there isn't a better wheel for our trucks

Good to know, thanks. This is the route I would love to take, just enough backspace to keep the tires of the sway bar?

Yes sir, on a 3rd gen no rub anywhere with 35's and on 37's only minor contact at the back edge of the fender. Not sure for a 4th gen but you guys seem to have a bit more room.

azracer wrote:

olyelr wrote:Here are some sweet wheels you could add to your list for Santa.

What, 6" of sidewall for your mud tires aint enough?