Track Bar Opinions

[bstefanic]

I'm looking to order a new track bar here soon and was just looking for some opinions on Thuren vs. Carli. I seem to remember a few guys running a Carli trackbar having issues with eating up bushings pretty quickly. Thanks guys

Sorry for the repeatative thread, I know the answer is somewhere here on this site but I'm currently out to sea and the internet makes dial-up look fast making searching for info nearly impossible, I'll get the thread deleted after I get some inputs. Thanks again

[djgaston]

Carli's bar is 1.5" OD 1/4" wall 4130 chromoly tube with a poly bushing and 7/8" FK heim joint. Powdercoated gloss black and basically always available from stocking dealers. They sell for $345.

Thuren's bar is 1.5" OD 3/8" wall 1026 mild steel DOM tube with a harder poly bushing (custom made) and the same 7/8" FK heim joint. Available in bare steel ($325) or powdercoated gloss black ($340). Can be found in stock sometimes, otherwise you'll have to wait a little while.

One thing to note is that Thuren's bar does not use a tube adapter. There were some that cracked so he switched to a thicker wall tubing and just started tapping the tube. It's still welded on the bushing end, but the adjustable/heim end is just threaded directly into the tube.

Think that covers everything.

[gtomike60]

I had the Thuren bar on my '05 2500 QCSB diesel for 6 years/110k miles with no issues.

[djgaston]

On that note, I also had the original (welded) Thuren track bar on my old 2004.5 CTD and ran it for 3 years with no issues. This was back in 2004 to 2007. So the ones he is making now are substantially better than the old ones.

[pdavey]

I also have the Thuren trackbar and no real complaints except I was eating upper bushings. I upgraded to the bigger diameter hardware for my 05 annd problem solved.

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[bstefanic]

Got back finally...ended up ordering a thuren track bar and man is this thing beefy. I noticed the heim end is adjustable...is there any magic way to set this up or just take the old track bar and line it up and make sure they're the same length?

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[bstefanic]

Or I guess I could have just read the instructions. ..

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[RustyPW]

I'm not real thrilled with my Carli bar. On my 3rd set of bushings for the frame mount. About every 9,000 miles I have to replace them.

[coder]

All measurements are center-to-center on the bolts holes.
- Stock 3G PW - 39"
- 3" lift (1" over stock PW) - 39 1/4"
- 6" lift and over you need a track-bar drop bracket.

Looks like you have a BDS long arm kit you might want give them a call and see what they recommend.

[bstefanic]

I think with my track bar drop bracket I run the normal stock PW length

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[2wagons1driveway]

I'm not real thrilled with my Carli bar. On my 3rd set of bushings for the frame mount. About every 9,000 miles I have to replace them.

why are you going through so many?! I've heard of this issue before heard that a full synth. Grease is Deffinately requires (amsoil 2000 is a good one) make sure it's not missing any hardware like a spacing shim for some years of trucks is required and make sure it's tight as efff!!! You've probably already covered this but HRT just posted a thing on fb. Stating that they can't keep Carli bushings on the shelf. But on bars they've installed and maintain they do not need replacing for years and years synthetic grease is a must (beryl that goes for your bushing in your Thuren bar too) Thuren doesn't specify what type if grease just sythetic grease. A petroleum based grease can eat away at the bushing and cause premature wear and softness. Also bad grease will wash out easy and encourage wear after every water crossing. Also don't over grease it. Just untill pressure in the grease gun is felt. Easy to split a bushing like that by pumping it untill it comes out the sleeve sides of the edges of the bushing.....hopefully this saves some track bar bushings if it was already known sorry in advance for bringing it up! Lol


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[olyelr]

...hopefully this saves some track bar bushings if it was already known sorry in advance for bringing it up! Lol


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Nope, there are some noobs around these parts that need to read this stuff! Good info!

[RustyPW]

I've been using Hotchkis silicone bushing grease for the one that's in there now. I been torquing the bolt to 300 lbs on the frame where the bushing is. The spacer is inside the bushing. Carli had a problem at one time with supplying the wrong length bushing sleeve. That was my first one. The problem is the inner hole gets egged shaped. Allowing the bushing to move. I'm not the only one with this problem.

[FirerescuePW]

I bought a used bar with about 7000 miles on it in a 4G. I put it in my 3G with the correct sleeve and bolt. After about 4000 miles it is toast. I spoke to George at 8 Lug about it. He explained what has to happen to the bushing when you torque the bolt. Apparently you not only capture the sleeve but also squish and expand the bushing in the bar. He also suggested that I go to the larger 4G hardware, which I knew but just needed the push. If I am not mistaken, the 4G has a fat washer that goes into the frame bracket with the bar end?

I received the new one last week. Now I just need to replace it.

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[2wagons1driveway]

Thurens newer bar for the 4g doesn't use a spacer. George also told me that when using a drop bracket you may have an overbuilt track bar drop that won't compress enough when torquing the bolt. This can cause the bushing to wear also. Hearing about the Carli bushings deterred me from buying one. As for mentioned Thuren does make his own bushings and he's a stickler for the toughest shit he can build...rusty you'll have to let us know if the grease your using helps out...if your bracket is edging can you possibly get a repair kit for it and upgrade to the larger 4th g hardware? I think creative fab and Thuren make a repair kit that welds on and allows you to drill your track bar out...I think*


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[Skyd Ram]

I've been using Hotchkis silicone bushing grease for the one that's in there now. I been torquing the bolt to 300 lbs on the frame where the bushing is. The spacer is inside the bushing. Carli had a problem at one time with supplying the wrong length bushing sleeve. That was my first one. The problem is the inner hole gets egged shaped. Allowing the bushing to move. I'm not the only one with this problem.

Rusty,
Are you still using your original hardware? And why are you torqueing it to 300 when the spec is 215? Over torqueing a bolt is just as bad if not worse than under torqueing it?

You should not be running the 4th Gen spacer on a 3rd Gen unless you have some kind of issue with your factory frame mount.

And just to clarify the wrong length sleeve affected about 50-100 track bars many years ago.

[azracer]

Thuren has his trackbar on sale and I can say it sure is beefy. I have yet to put mine on but I like the bushing he puts on the frame end. Both the sleeve and collar it mount in are stout (the bushing looks nothing like the photo on his site though). I don't expect any issues from it. Carlie and he use the same heim on the axle end so there is no difference there. I can honestly say this is a very heavy duty peace of hardware!

To be clear the instructions state 39 1/8" for a 3" truck. I plan to go with a smidge less (39>39 1/16") to avoid any possible contact with the coil spring bucket. I did not get it to center the axle I got it to allow for maximum droop and make the front end both HD and as tight as possible to make sure I never have death wobble issues.

[2wagons1driveway]

It tightens the front end up a lot. Since the drag link the steering brace and the track bar the truck tracks straight and feels ultra touchy to wheel input.


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[RustyPW]

I've been using Hotchkis silicone bushing grease for the one that's in there now. I been torquing the bolt to 300 lbs on the frame where the bushing is. The spacer is inside the bushing. Carli had a problem at one time with supplying the wrong length bushing sleeve. That was my first one. The problem is the inner hole gets egged shaped. Allowing the bushing to move. I'm not the only one with this problem.

Rusty,
Are you still using your original hardware? And why are you torqueing it to 300 when the spec is 215? Over torqueing a bolt is just as bad if not worse than under torqueing it?

You should not be running the 4th Gen spacer on a 3rd Gen unless you have some kind of issue with your factory frame mount.

And just to clarify the wrong length sleeve affected about 50-100 track bars many years ago.

George,
Yea, I'm using the original hardware, 16mm. I tried 215 lbs the first time. After that, I was told to go to 300 lbs. Same results. I'm not running any 4G parts. I was a lucky bastard and got 2 of the wrong sleeves. The first one came with the bar, and the second came with the replacement bushing. Which I sent back and got the right one.

[azracer]

It is not rubber but is machined in two parts with a sleeve and a very thin washer. It is $299 shipped and was $349 before.

http://www.thurenfabrication.com/3rdgentrackbar.html

.

[RustyPW]

Thurens newer bar for the 4g doesn't use a spacer. George also told me that when using a drop bracket you may have an overbuilt track bar drop that won't compress enough when torquing the bolt. This can cause the bushing to wear also. Hearing about the Carli bushings deterred me from buying one. As for mentioned Thuren does make his own bushings and he's a stickler for the toughest shit he can build...

rusty you'll have to let us know if the grease your using helps out.

..if your bracket is edging can you possibly get a repair kit for it and upgrade to the larger 4th g hardware? I think creative fab and Thuren make a repair kit that welds on and allows you to drill your track bar out...I think*


Sent from somewhere your not

Checked my mileage. Have 6,000 miles on the current bushing. Still tight. Fingers crossed.

[Skyd Ram]

I've been using Hotchkis silicone bushing grease for the one that's in there now. I been torquing the bolt to 300 lbs on the frame where the bushing is. The spacer is inside the bushing. Carli had a problem at one time with supplying the wrong length bushing sleeve. That was my first one. The problem is the inner hole gets egged shaped. Allowing the bushing to move. I'm not the only one with this problem.

Rusty,
Are you still using your original hardware? And why are you torqueing it to 300 when the spec is 215? Over torqueing a bolt is just as bad if not worse than under torqueing it?

You should not be running the 4th Gen spacer on a 3rd Gen unless you have some kind of issue with your factory frame mount.

And just to clarify the wrong length sleeve affected about 50-100 track bars many years ago.

George,
Yea, I'm using the original hardware, 16mm. I tried 215 lbs the first time. After that, I was told to go to 300 lbs. Same results. I'm not running any 4G parts. I was a lucky bastard and got 2 of the wrong sleeves. The first one came with the bar, and the second came with the replacement bushing. Which I sent back and got the right one.

Ok,
If you have more issues in the future I would suggest replacing the factory hardware. The coarse thread stuff that Mopar uses is hard to keep tight sometimes especially after it has been on and off a few times. 215lbs is the TQ to yield number for that bolt and going too high can cause it to stretch or fatigue the threads. When this happens the actual clamping force is diminished even when torqued to the correct number.

[RustyPW]

Ok,
If you have more issues in the future I would suggest replacing the factory hardware. The coarse thread stuff that Mopar uses is hard to keep tight sometimes especially after it has been on and off a few times. 215lbs is the TQ to yield number for that bolt and going too high can cause it to stretch or fatigue the threads. When this happens the actual clamping force is diminished even when torqued to the correct number.

Yea, I know all about fastener stretch. A lot of the stuff I work on at work. I have to measure stretch on the bolting.