Power Wagon Registry

So I know there are pro's and con's to each, but I was hoping somebody could educate me on the differences between the two and where one is better than the other.

Wire rope is cheaper to replace. http://www.ebay.com/itm/WARN-61950-Repl ... 1276568658

Synthetic rope is 2 or 3x more expensive. $360 for 100'. http://www.amsteelblue.com/amsteel-blue ... 1-500-lbs/

Synthetic is supposed to be stronger. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnM-hT3vr-c

Most Importantly: Synthetic does NOT hold much kinetic energy if it does break. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnM-hT3vr-c

Wire rope has the potential to kill your ass. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1NnL83UpuQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qX8A4JzIUrI

Rope is the way to go if you can afford it! Just my opinion it's safer, and easier to handle.


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Synthetic is well worth it!! Lighter, can roll it up and throw it. No more "snake fangs". Can get more on the spool with a smaller diameter. Repairable (if the end gets frayed, you can cut it and reweave it) I switched after my wire got too many "fangs" and logged a new piece of land last winter selectively pulling out trees and used the shit out of my Amsteel and love it. Only catch is I had to get new rollers because my old ones were to roughed up by the wire. I haven't looked in a couple of years but I wish someone made a rope hawse for the PW's to bolt on and get away from the rollers.

I agree I actually just let a metal scrapper take my old steel winch line lol I will be buying synthetic really soon! I suggest you buy a new roller package also if you your rollers are roughed up at all. The part numbers can be found in the FAQ section. I bought a complete vertical and horizontal roller package a few months back.

Some precaustions with syn rope. They don't like heat. 200F can down grade it. Chemicals, and UV light will affect it. Get the UV rope. They don't like being scraped over rocks. So use protection. And you have to replace it every 5 yrs. I work with the stuff at work. I inspect it with a monthly program. Dollar vs dollar, it's expense. But the easy of use. It's nice.

Had amsteel blue on my 06 pw for almost 5 years. It's still on the winch in my garage right now. I would never go back to steel if I had the choice. I have had the steel line snap back at me when pulling a Ford when his tow hook broke and it nailed the hood and windshield. Pretty good damage. Using the synth pulling again another Ford its tow hook broke too. But it traveled like 2-3 feet then dropped. Btw watch out pulling fords by their tow hooks

For some reason. Winching ferbs out is a bad idea. I watch a tow hook come off a ferb and fly through the windshield, headrest, and back window on a CJ7 that was doing the winching. Also watched a steel cable just about take a guys leg off at work. Watched a syn cable fail because of oils had gotten on it too. Think what I'm trying to get to. Is that you have to maintain your cable. If it's steel or syn.

Feels like winching is a full contact combat sport.

nts007 wrote:Had amsteel blue on my 06 pw for almost 5 years. It's still on the winch in my garage right now. I would never go back to steel if I had the choice. I have had the steel line snap back at me when pulling a Ford when his tow hook broke and it nailed the hood and windshield. Pretty good damage. Using the synth pulling again another Ford its tow hook broke too. But it traveled like 2-3 feet then dropped. Btw watch out pulling fords by their tow hooks

Noted about the tow hook, I've pulled out many throughout the years and always make them hook their end. Some ask, where should I hook it? I always say to whatever piece you want out.

Winching IS a dangerous "sport" I would never let just anyone hook up their own vehicle. Most people don't have any idea what is safe and what is not.

If a vehicle is properly connected a rope failure will not make the hook go flying, it would stay connected to the vehicle....just saying.

I drove a tow truck for several years in So Cal and only dropped one car, it was due to one of it's own connection points (a welded tow loop) failing.

One of the best things a novice wincher can get and use is a tow cluster so that you can use factory tie down points on the frame for vehicle recovery. Pull in line with the frame not at any angle from it. You still have to use common sense and use your tools safely.

I figured someone would chime in about safety... obviously I paid attention to where they hooked up, merely a joke but mainly releasing liability for their stuff.. Personally, I think all safety warnings should be removed.

Also, is it true that if the hook were to fail it would travel in the direction away from the opening? I was told when I first started wheeling to always point the hook to the ground. So the closed side to ground.

jeep_boy02 wrote:Also, is it true that if the hook were to fail it would travel in the direction away from the opening? I was told when I first started wheeling to always point the hook to the ground. So the closed side to ground.

X2

Does anyone have a guide to safe winching? Seems like it be a relevant PDF for our merry band of misfits.

jeep_boy02 wrote:Also, is it true that if the hook were to fail it would travel in the direction away from the opening? I was told when I first started wheeling to always point the hook to the ground. So the closed side to ground.

That's true, but... If the hook was pointing towards the ground, wouldn't the open side (side w/ clasp) be closest to the ground & the closed end closest to the vehicle body?

I didn't necessarily mean the "pointy end of hook" basically just as the photo shows the curved side of hook down and the open side up.

jeep_boy02 wrote:I didn't necessarily mean the "pointy end of hook" basically just as the photo shows the curved side of hook down and the open side up.

Ok, we're tracking!

Kscardsfan wrote:Does anyone have a guide to safe winching? Seems like it be a relevant PDF for our merry band of misfits.

Do a search here on Bruce Elfstrom's article in the Overland Journal. I've posted it several times.

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Cactus Red wrote:

Kscardsfan wrote:Does anyone have a guide to safe winching? Seems like it be a relevant PDF for our merry band of misfits.

Do a search here on Bruce Elfstrom's article in the Overland Journal. I've posted it several times.

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Thank you sir.

i was quoted $420 for 85 feet of 10 000lb rated rope, decided to replace with cable at that price. cable was $62

Wire cable
Pros
- much cheaper than synthetic
- more abrasion resistant
- resistant to sun, dry rot and heat

Cons
- stores dangerous amounts of potential energy when loaded( stretches).
- vulnerable to kinks and deformation= loss of strength
- Not tolerant of improper sheave size
- needs lubrication which attracts dirt
- broken strands are hazards to hands
- steel loses strength and gets brittle when cold(approx 20% @ -40 )
- non field repairable... Must cut and discard.

Synthetic rope

Pros
- very low potential energy storage under load ( low stretch)
- a fraction of the weight of steel
- approx 20% stronger than steel cable( same diameter)
Extra strength give the option of smaller diameter rope = more rope on spool/ or same length of rope with reduced drum diameter= more rotational torque.
- resistant to various sheave diameters, bending, kinking
- more manageable, easy on hands
- cold temps = no loss of strength
- field repairable / splicing
- wash with soap and water... Relative low maintenance

Cons
- 400-500% more expensive
- Abrasion resistance is low...protective sheaths needed= more $
- more vulnerable to sun UV, chemicals and dry rot( although I believe it is better than most people think... In marine environments it fairs very well in the sun and salt) it was initially developed for marine industry because steel tow cables rust.
- susceptible to damage due to high temps( this is avoidable by not excessively back spooling winch... Winch brake = friction= heat) always free spools out large amounts of line to avoid heat
- extra money for proper fairleads( although to some use rollers with success .... Must ensure line doesn't get wedged in rollers.... Remove burrs).

khicks wrote:i was quoted $420 for 85 feet of 10 000lb rated rope, decided to replace with cable at that price. cable was $62

You can do way better than that. I bought 100 ' of amsteel blue( 22000-23000 lb break strength) with a thimble spliced in the end here in Edmonton. I paid $260 ish with my discount as a crane operator. Your cost would be just over $300.
Pm me if you want me to get you some. Discount on snatch blocks, Crosby shackles, tow straps... You name it. High quality stuff.
I send you the address and location name if you wish

One thing I do is drape a blanket or throw rug over the cable or hook to soak up some of the energy in the event of a failure. When I'm confident I'm going to put a great deal of force on the rope I wet down the blanket/rug to give it a little more weight. Back in the1980s when I wrenched for the military I operated a Man truck recovery wrecker and the heavy wool blanket was part of the 50ton winch kit. Yes it was really a very heavy blanket as it took two people to deploy it over the cable. Think about it... they use a blast blanket for a reason. Granted that is woven steel but it is the same principal.