Power Wagon Registry

Hello all,

I have a 2006 pw with a G56 manual in it. The clutch bearing sounds like its going (loud inconsistent squealing depending on when i press the clutch pedal, gritty feeling clutch pedal, sometimes short stints with no noise for minutes mostly at idle) The bearing is not covered by the warranty i got from the original dealer i bought it from ( not dodge, It was Carmax). so seeing as i'm on my own what are the recommended clutch replacement options seeing as im likely to be there any way replacing a bearing. Also the quotes i have from various shops are range from the Dealer at $2055 (replacing all the parts including the fly wheel) down to pep boys at 591 (just clutch no work on the hydraulics or fly wheel). Have one thats in between that i'm considering waiting on a forth as i type this.

With the presumption i have to replace the clutch bearings im planning to just replace the clutch as what ever shop does this will be right there any way.

I have seen south-bend recommended on all the Diesel sites and some references to Valair...looking to see what the which mob suggests?

As always your commentary is appreciated.

I have not had to replace mine yet.

"06wagon" pulls with his. I think i remember him saying that Valair was working with him on a HD PW G-56/Hemi replacement. We definately need something, as they are NOT very HD at all. I was hoping to be able to drive mine somewhere to have it done, before i HAVE to have it done. I trust no one around me at all for that job.

Keep us posted please.

Still in the works with Valair...... Just taking time.

A cummins G56 is different then the HEMI G56!!!!!

OEM and centerforce are the only places to get as clutch.... As of now....

For normal driving, the centerforce is a decent replacement. Plan on a new flywheel. I'll bet that yours will have a bunch of tiny cracks in it.

looks like my fourth quote is a winner, going to be about 900 but the commentary from the shop owner was that for the gas side there are no upgrade or "better" replacment options. The towing side he in his experience has had to take out as many of the upgraded clutches he puts in on the g56 for the diesel side. The shop has a solid reputation and been recommended in my area well let the group know how this goes.

Well, my factory clutch failed on me at 26K last fall (pressure plate collapsed). I was very lucky and it was all covered under warranty (new pilot, throw out, flywheel, clutch), if it was not covered under warranty I was going to go with a centerforce.

FWIW the price of a new fly wheel vs. resurfacing is so close that it not worth resurfacing it. Also make sure the pilot is replaced if you go with a new clutch.

OE clutch vs. Centerforce, there was a member here that went centerforce and said it was much grabbier than his worn out stocker and it did make some "maraca" noise at idle.

Throwout (you suspected noise maker) OE is good and pricing is close to aftermarket.

How many miles on the truck?

Do you gasser guys have the DMF as well?

At the moment im waiting on the formal diagnosis. The bearing is my guess as well. The quote is for a resurfacing but will discuss when i get the official diag and quote what it will take to get them to just put in a full replacement.

Truck as 70kish

more asphalt than dirt but the dirt was fun

Gassers have a normal flywheel, no dual mass BS to deal with, thank god!!!

Lucky!

The shop has confirmed the clutch bering but has not pulled the whole clutch out to see if there was other damage from the driving while this bering was singing out loud (drove it to shop as well as about 1 hour once it started making the noise as i was not at home) talked about what it would cost to replace the Fly wheel was quoted as being 147.00 for the part but didnt get the cost of the resurfacing work. not sure if its 1 or 2 hours labor for the resurface....

still trying to have some patience as im having to drive a bronco around while my truck is laid up...nothing wrong with it other than its not registerd.......

My clutch peddle felt a little funny when my clutch went (just a fyi).

If you have the money, I say replace it all while it opened up, the labor is usually the more expensive part of the job (at least have them check the clutch for wear and the flywheel for cracks/heat).

The clutch and its related components will all be new the fly wheel is the only question as to wether it is resurfaced or replaced. I still have not herd the status back on what they found internally. Im suspecting that they are waiting on the clutch kit to come in to open up the truck to maintain flexibilty in space etc. I will follow up in the morning if i have not herd anything.

UPDATE: Shop called back and i was informed that "the throwout bearing exploded" he is gathering all the parts in a box for me i will post pics for those intersted. The fly wheel is fine no heat checking or any cracks so it it getting resurfaced. They are waiting on the clutch kit to come in to do the remainder of the replacement. They did note the folowing two items. A front diff rear pinion seal leak and seapage around the 6 bolt plate( i think its the inspection plate) on the G56 trans and asked if i wanted those tended to it added about 200 to the bill total for both mostly labor and the seal for the pinion. I have seen a leaking pinion seal before and it was associated to a cloged vent, this was on a ford 9.25 rear axel that has a vent tube on top of the axel. I noticed in the break out of our front axels thre is a vent fitting. Does any one know, as i cant go look at mine right now, if that is a bolt with a vent hole or some kind of vent mechanisme built in or it is jut a bolt and im barking up the wrong tree for why that seal may have failed. I am having them take care of it only because they have it and are already in the weeds with the truck.


as always thanks for reading.

There should be a vent line from the axle up to the LF shock tower. It should have a white plastic fitting on the end, clipped to the tower with a spring clamp.

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chromedragon wrote:UPDATE: Shop called back and i was informed that "the throwout bearing exploded" he is gathering all the parts in a box for me i will post pics for those intersted. The fly wheel is fine no heat checking or any cracks so it it getting resurfaced. They are waiting on the clutch kit to come in to do the remainder of the replacement. They did note the folowing two items. A front diff rear pinion seal leak and seapage around the 6 bolt plate( i think its the inspection plate) on the G56 trans and asked if i wanted those tended to it added about 200 to the bill total for both mostly labor and the seal for the pinion. I have seen a leaking pinion seal before and it was associated to a cloged vent, this was on a ford 9.25 rear axel that has a vent tube on top of the axel. I noticed in the break out of our front axels thre is a vent fitting. Does any one know, as i cant go look at mine right now, if that is a bolt with a vent hole or some kind of vent mechanisme built in or it is jut a bolt and im barking up the wrong tree for why that seal may have failed. I am having them take care of it only because they have it and are already in the weeds with the truck.


as always thanks for reading.

The same thing happened to my 2006 at 65,000 miles. I hope that's not a pattern with these trucks.

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The same thing happened to my 2006 at 65,000 miles. I hope that's not a pattern with these trucks.[/quote]
Kemp and chromedragons mileage are very close. I've got 34k on my 06-so I guess in another 7 or 8 years I'll have to watch out for the throw out bearing.

So the Truck is home the clutch feels softer now not sure if that is more a perception or a reality my GF will be the best judge. The cost was just south of 2k for a replacement clutch throwout bearing, which i need to pick up the remains of for the sake of my build thread. Additionally they replaced the rear pinion seal on the front differential and the seal around the inspection place on the G56 that had developed some seeping. truck runs and shifts fine with a lot less squealing now. The shop seems to have done a solid job and I have a 12 month 12000k mile warranty on the clutch. Time to go test it out and see if it will hold up to my driving .