Power Wagon Registry

As you all know there are very few options out there for our trucks in the way of a functional slider. Aluminess does not show these on their website and only builds them to order. The customer service at Aluminess was fantastic and the sliders arrived a week earlier than promised. They are very heavy, shipping weight was 270lbs and after taking them out of the crate each side comes in around 100lbs. They use factory mounting points and the install only took about an hour.

As far as strength goes I think they will be perfect for the wheeling that I do. I live 3 hours from Moab and have family there so I do several trips each year that include moderate rock crawling, but nothing extreme. The rest of my time is spent wandering and finding new places to see. I'll get some real world testing in this weekend.

Sorry for the cell phone pics.

How many places along the body does the rail mount to?

RustyPW wrote:How many places along the body does the rail mount to?

Three mounts evenly spaced down the rail.

I like the looks of those- they look very similar to mine. I'm a little bias though being a white Power Wagon owner myself.

RustyPW wrote:How many places along the body does the rail mount to?

Well hot damn Russ!! Don't ya recognize him? LOL It must have been his PW we saw in Moab while we got some food at Pasta Jay's!!! Ya circled the block twice. Got the rooftop tent an all. It was a Sunday.

Pit Slave wrote:

RustyPW wrote:How many places along the body does the rail mount to?

Well hot damn Russ!! Don't ya recognize him? LOL It must have been his PW we saw in Moab while we got some food at Pasta Jay's!!! Ya circled the block twice. Got the rooftop tent an all. It was a Sunday.

That was probably when I was searching for my wife and daughter that were out shopping. We get down there 4 or 5 times a year...nice to be so close.

Those look nice...BTW if your looking for new places to explore, you should buy a copy of the Desert Magazines I have in the want add thread

Sweet! Did you get the steel, or chromoly versions?

Pit Slave wrote:

RustyPW wrote:How many places along the body does the rail mount to?

Well hot damn Russ!! Don't ya recognize him? LOL It must have been his PW we saw in Moab while we got some food at Pasta Jay's!!! Ya circled the block twice. Got the rooftop tent an all. It was a Sunday.

Juday wrote:Sweet! Did you get the steel, or chromoly versions?

They had a set cut that just needed welding in steel so I went that way.

Pennies wrote:As far as strength goes I think they will be perfect for the wheeling that I do. I live 3 hours from Moab and have family there so I do several trips each year that include moderate rock crawling, but nothing extreme. The rest of my time is spent wandering and finding new places to see. I'll get some real world testing in this weekend.

From my own experience, I think they should probably work fine - my steps attach to the body in a similar fashion (but are much less heavy-duty), and they've held up the entire weight of the truck on more than a few occasions. The steps are bent all to heck, but the body attachment points are just fine. That being said, I probably wouldn't use them as a jacking point or let the weight of the truck fall on them with too much force...those are the things that I'd want the factory rock rails for.

If their sliders are (somewhat) reasonably priced, I might consider them when I get rid of my current steps...at this point they're so mangled that they really don't work that good as steps anymore, and due to some back problems I need something to step on to help get into the truck. I refuse to carry around a step-stool.

Pennies wrote:

Juday wrote:Sweet! Did you get the steel, or chromoly versions?

They had a set cut that just needed welding in steel so I went that way.

Good deal. I think I'll probably get the exact same setup you have when it comes time to get mine. I just can't see paying twice the price for the chromoly versions. Unless they're twice as good?.....I don't know.

Heres the thing about Cro-Mo stuff. Most---but NOT ALL, people that make things with it, tend to use thinner wall Cro-Mo because it IS stronger. I think if the rails were made from 1/4" walled Cro-Mo, they would be bombproof, but also out of most peoples price range, including mine. I am certainly no steel expert or welding expert, so this is JMHO.

If you don't mind me asking how much did you pay for em? I need to get a set soon!

those look sweet, especially on the '12 PW

Have you tried a HiLift on them yet? I'm curious to see if they deflect at all. They sure look nice - wish they could tie them back to the frame or a body mount tho. My modified stock rails deflect slightly with the weight of the truck on them. The additional 5.50" of the step adds a lot of leverage.

Cactus Red wrote:Have you tried a HiLift on them yet? I'm curious to see if they deflect at all. They sure look nice - wish they could tie them back to the frame or a body mount tho. My modified stock rails deflect slightly with the weight of the truck on them. The additional 5.50" of the step adds a lot of leverage.

After years of carrying a HiLift and never actually using it, I gave it to a friend who thought it looked cool on his FJ. I have had my son and I(about 400lbs) stand on the rail and bounce with no noticeable deflection though. Not the same kind of weight, but I was happy.

Over the years I've used a HiLift a few times, and in each case, it was the best tool for the job. In April last year I lost a tire bead in snow and mud, and the stock jack sunk under the axle. I had to use a HiLift and jack base to change the tire. Using the rail allowed me good access for the jack and base and made short work of the mess. Wish I had a better photo.

In any respect, I like the rails!

Any update on these yet? Any complaints? I'm trying my hardest to not call up Aluminess right now and place my order........ Though after more thought, I think I'll get the basic version without the extra rail coming off. If you have any updated pictures, be sure to throw those up on here too!

Yes----I am also subscribed to this thread! I have a set of N Fabs that mount to the pinch points that are rusting out. (I am tired of sanding and repainting them!) and am looking for a full slider. A local fab shop said they can make me a set of .250 wall DOM that will be welded to the frame and linex'd for around $900. I would be interested in the price of the Chrome Moly bolt ons!!

I have a set of N Fabs that mount to the pinch points that are rusting out.

I have had a set of N-Fabs on my 3G for about five years. The N-Fabs replaced a set of Smitty-Bilts that were rusting out after less than two years on the truck. When I mounted the N-Fabs, I painted all the holes after drilling, used all stainless steel fasteners, and put a glob of clear RTV silicone in each hole before I bolted things up. Not a spec of rust anywhere, but we don't get salted roads in So Cal.

A friend just ordered a Tundra rear bumper from Aluminess. I think I might drive the PW to Aluminess with him and see about getting some rails built for the PW.

Edit: Need to put in a good word for 4WP at their Compton store. They honored the "lifetime" warranty on the rusty Smittybilts, and swapped me the N-Fabs at no charge. Made me a happy camper, and they deserve recognition.

Ducky's Dad wrote:I think I might drive the PW to Aluminess with him and see about getting some rails built for the PW.

DO IT!!

Ducky's Dad wrote:

I have a set of N Fabs that mount to the pinch points that are rusting out.

I have had a set of N-Fabs on my 3G for about five years. The N-Fabs replaced a set of Smitty-Bilts that were rusting out after less than two years on the truck. When I mounted the N-Fabs, I painted all the holes after drilling, used all stainless steel fasteners, and put a glob of clear RTV silicone in each hole before I bolted things up. Not a spec of rust anywhere, but we don't get salted roads in So Cal.

A friend just ordered a Tundra rear bumper from Aluminess. I think I might drive the PW to Aluminess with him and see about getting some rails built for the PW.

Edit: Need to put in a good word for 4WP at their Compton store. They honored the "lifetime" warranty on the rusty Smittybilts, and swapped me the N-Fabs at no charge. Made me a happy camper, and they deserve recognition.

My N Fabs are not rusting at the mounts; they are rusting at the steps ( I have the three step model), as well as the undersides. I have tried most models of nerf bars on different trucks over the years----all with poor rusults due to the road salt up here. That is why I am interested in the chrome moly sliders----I figure they might have better resistance to rust.

Throttle 8- this is why my steps were coated with Line-X. The crap they put on our roads is nasty.

My N Fabs are not rusting at the mounts; they are rusting at the steps ( I have the three step model), as well as the undersides.

Next time you have to touch-up the rust spots, try a thorough cleaning of the rusty areas (sandpaper or wire brush/wire wheel), then coat those areas with a rust conversion product like POR-15. This and other similar products are available for brush and rattle-can application and convert any remaining rust to an inert oxide that you can then paint over. There are various brands, including a Rust-O-Leum rust converter that I have seen at WalMart and Home Depot. Auto body supplies also sell this kind of stuff. I have used it with pretty good results, but make sure it is thoroughly dried before you paint over it.