Power Wagon Registry

Has anyone replaced this? Mine is bad and I need to replace it now. The shop wants $600 and up I think I will do it myself. Just want to know if ya'll have done this or anymore suggestions would be great. I never have done it sooo. I have watched vids on this and it doesn't look to hard.

It really depends how much rust has formed between the knuckle and bearing, and the bearing and axle splines. I had a hell of a time separating these parts when I did my axle u-joints. Everything was rusted to everything else! It's difficult to get penetrating oil into the areas where it will help.

I used the power steering pump to push the bearings out of the knuckle. With the wheels turned, place a deep socket between the knuckle and end of the axle tube IIRC. Snap On makes a tool for this purpose. You will want a second person for this part.You need to work at it a little at a time. Turn the wheel to apply pressure to the bearing. There should be videos available. A friend uses a sledge hammer head in place of the socket. Your choice.

I had to drive one of the axles out of a bearing due to the rust. Did this in a vise after removing everything from the diff.

Make sure you clean ALL the rust from the mating surfaces before you reassemble, and use anti-seize on all surfaces. You WILL be removing these parts to service SOMETHING in the future, so make it a little easier. The FSM calls for 263 ft lbs when you tighten the axle nut. Make sure you have the proper tool ti do this. Keep this in mind when you are disassembling as it will likely fight to stay tight!

Rust will be the factor that determines time needed to complete the job. If you are doing one, give yourself the day. It shouldn't take all of it, but it gives you a cushion for oopsies.

Good luck!

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Its fairly easy. Pull off the brakes, then the axle shaft nut...I think its a 26mm socket, I'll see if I can find mine to double check that size. Then take off the 4 hub bearing bolts from the back of the wheel bearing. Then I found the easiest way to push out the bearing is put a long socket extension through one of the bearing bolt holes and wedge it against a part of the axle, then have someone turn the wheel to push the bearing out.

FirerescuePW wrote:It really depends how much rust has formed between the knuckle and bearing, and the bearing and axle splines. I had a hell of a time separating these parts when I did my axle u-joints. Everything was rusted to everything else! It's difficult to get penetrating oil into the areas where it will help.

I used the power steering pump to push the bearings out of the knuckle. With the wheels turned, place a deep socket between the knuckle and end of the axle tube IIRC. Snap On makes a tool for this purpose. You will want a second person for this part.You need to work at it a little at a time. Turn the wheel to apply pressure to the bearing. There should be videos available. A friend uses a sledge hammer head in place of the socket. Your choice.

I had to drive one of the axles out of a bearing due to the rust. Did this in a vise after removing everything from the diff.

Make sure you clean ALL the rust from the mating surfaces before you reassemble, and use anti-seize on all surfaces. You WILL be removing these parts to service SOMETHING in the future, so make it a little easier. The FSM calls for 263 ft lbs when you tighten the axle nut. Make sure you have the proper tool ti do this. Keep this in mind when you are disassembling as it will likely fight to stay tight!

Rust will be the factor that determines time needed to complete the job. If you are doing one, give yourself the day. It shouldn't take all of it, but it gives you a cushion for oopsies.

Good luck!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

Beat me to it.

Thanks for the info. I'm nervous about doing this, but I know I can do it. Like you said just need the time:)

Hemi46 wrote:Thanks for the info. I'm nervous about doing this, but I know I can do it. Like you said just need the time:)

You shouldn't have any problems, I had never done it before taking mine out to do my ball joints. Just allot plenty of extra time since it will probably take longer the first time than you're thinking it will.

The axle nut is 1 11/16. You may have problems getting brake rotor off. The rotor has a deep dish that goes over the bearing hub. It rusts inside and you can't pull rotor off hub. It always take longer than it should!!

diggerdude69 wrote:The axle nut is 1 11/16. You may have problems getting brake rotor off. The rotor has a deep dish that goes over the bearing hub. It rusts inside and you can't pull rotor off hub. It always take longer than it should!!

You're right if the rotor hasn't come off recently like you said it can be a royal pain the ass to get off. I've found a hammer and 2x4 is the best way to loosen up the rotor

I had to get in behind with a hammer and chizle to chip rust scale out to get mine off. Talk about time!

I'm wondering if I need to replace both sides or just the one that is bad?

Hemi46 wrote:I'm wondering if I need to replace both sides or just the one that is bad?

you should always replace in a set(both sides) when doing a 4x4.

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I can tell you when I did mine I had to use a 3/4 inch breaker bar and 4ft of cast iron pipe to break the axle nut loose. But other then that all my bolts came out just fine. When it came to remove the wheel hub assembly I did the power steering press trick. I screwed one of the hub nuts back in about half way. Next I had my buddy jump in and turn the tires towards passenger and use a socket and extension against the frame. This pushed the hub assembly out of the knuckle. I just did this on every single hole until it came out.

Well, I wanted to let ya'll know how things went.
Getting the castle nut off was really easy. I put my impact on it and came right out:) the break rotor gave my a little problem and the bearing assembly too. But the axel shaft was the big problem, thought I would never get that the out. I did spray everything down with PB Blaster.
When I hit the brakes now on the highway it doesn't shake anymore. But the whining noise is still there. Darn might be the ring and pinion gear.
Well the wheel bearing needed replacing anyway.
Thanks for ya'll info, it was very helpful.