Carli Sway-Bar End-Links

[Mr.Smith]

Building custom sway-bar end-links, using Carli's sway bar kit end-links. Our stock Power Wagon end-links are @ 1.5" angle offset from top to bottom & @ 5" center link to center link. The Carli sway bar kit says trucks with @ 3" of lift should set the end -links @ 6" center link to center link. However they are using the Carli sway bar, which is different than the stock Power Wagon sway bar. My question is: How are you that use the heim-joint style end-links, determining your correct lengths? In order to use the Carli end-links, you'll utilize a reducer sleeve that converts the metric hole to standard to prevent slop at the bolt. I duplicated the axle mount bolts & hardware for the top, then had a local machinist modified the reducer sleeve to fit the sway bar mount. The reducer sleeves are @ .59"(from Carli) for the axle mount & needed to be @ .4045" for the sway bar mount. The reason I ask, is I really do not want to make contact with the King remote reservoirs. I've already mounted them on the frame & this end-link, became an afterthought...plus I also do not want to re-drill the frame for a new mounting position. Swiss cheese comes to mind. It would be week & ugly, it could be filled with new weld...

[Cactus Red]

First off, if you weld the frame, you void the warranty.

Are you removing the Smartbar? If not, it really doesn't matter if you replace the links unless you are going long travel on the front. The disconnect allows the sway bar to move pretty freely.

[coder]

DT Profab has standard and extended length PW end links have you looked at those?

http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02043-1-POWE ... p_313.html

[azracer]

I had problems with doing the JKS quick disconnect sway bar links... because the heims did not have enough angularity to facilitate the movement involved in articulation. I tried spacers etc and just could not get an acceptable angularity. I decided that when it becomes necessary to lengthen the links I will just cut the OEM link and make a weld in aluminum sleeve to the length I need.

There really is a ton of angle required when you consider both articulation and left to right swing caused by the track bar arc. I just gave up and put the OEM links back on for now as there was too much bind with the OEM sway bar disconnect turned on. I was very surprised at just how much angle the OEM links allowed when compared to the JKS links.

[Mr.Smith]

Could care less about warranty, the dealer in Grand Junction is useless ...except the parts crew. Seen the Dt setup, essentially this is the same setup, just from Carli Suspension. For me it's about having quality parts. The stock links: broke one on the driver side before & now it's worn with play in it. Just want something better. Eventually I may remove the "P.O.S." Smart-bar, just not sold on that yet. If I figure out my lockers in "close to stock" form someday, I'll keep it. If I modify it heavily beyond, I'll ditch it. The links are really needed for high speed bash'n, were the "dumb-bar" stays connected & I move quicker than I should across the rough stuff ...not to mention the dealer wants @ $300.00 for each link! azracer I know exactly what you mean, never seen the quick disconnect setup. Were you modifying these to fit, or are they Power Wagon specific? Without Dan Torino @ Carli, I would have not been this far along, he's been great at getting me their parts to build the kit. The only problem is that Carli's crew doesn't have the truck their to build or see for themselves, what I need. If this works hopefully Carli will offer it to their lineup.

[nrooney21]

If you're having dealer issues, try downtown dodge in Vernal. It's a 2.5 hour drive, but Justin, the service manager is a avid off roader and an awesome guy. Just for future reference

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[Mr.Smith]

I 'll hit Montrose first, but good to know. Can anyone answer the end-link length question that knows what their talking about/doing?(because they've done this or something similar)

[azracer]

Here is what they look like and yes to some extent they are adjustable for length. The pins that I got were internal threads and allowed the use of a grade eight bolt and a spacer. Like in the lower photo. I was trying to go a little longer than OEM to allow for more droop w/o the link being pulled straight and flipped under at full droop. I tried driving w/o the sway bar and did not like that on the street but it was liberating off road and worked great.

[Mr.Smith]

If only the mounts were vertically parallel, right?

[azracer]

If only the mounts were vertically parallel, right?

I got mine to be parallel with spacers but with as much flex as I had the JKS joint was maxed out and then some when articulated. I just could not make them work unless I took them off every time I went slow and technical and that defeated the purpose of on the fly transitions from slow and flexi to highway and back again. Not only that once greased they really made a mess of your hands and such. I even got extra pins to hold the sway bar and link up and out of the way but not in the cab.

I have not given up yet but I know now that a custom tapered spacer will be my only hope. I do not need much more room but I honestly do not know any other fix for the JKS other than a dremel to modify the joint to clear the spacer.

[Mr.Smith]

Once I put the truck on the ground(after all the parts show up & get installed), I'll post pictures. We can't be the only guys doing this...Hell, Dan Torino said there's a guy in NM. running the end-links already. The only issue there is he never checked back with him to say how he mounted them, so no pictures either.

[BigRed2007]

DT Profab has standard and extended length PW end links have you looked at those?

http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02043-1-POWE ... p_313.html

Ditto

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[BigRed2007]

Ditto on DT Profab end links

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[myoung84]

Anyone actually running the DTP links? With my Carli coils I'm lifted right at 2" so I assume the 2" longer links would be good?

I kind of painted myself in a corner with the stock links when I had my limit strap tabs welded on. I'm going to have to cut the axle side bolt when I decide to remove them. I just hope that I'm able to get the new ones installed without having to remove the limit strap tab. It looks like the axle side bolt is a little shorter than stock.

[BigRed2007]

I am running the DTP links, I haven't installed the limit straps that came with the carli performance 2.0 yet. I did have to relocate my reservoirs after installing longer links.


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[azracer]

The DT-P link does look much better than anything else I have seen out there. But lacks the disconnect feature I was after.

[TwinStick]

RedMan put those on "OX". I have not heard how he likes them or how they are working out.

[Mr.Smith]

azracer/RedMan/BigRed2007: What's you rod-eye center link to center link? How did you determine this lenght?

[RedMan]

azracer/RedMan: What's you rod-eye center link to center link? How did you determine this lenght?

I love them, they're heavy duty and when i took OX up to Uharrie in March I look at the links while fully extended and there was no binder or anything. I think those are the best out there IMO. I would recommend we all get them and be done with it, not to mention if the joints go bad you just purchase the joint and not the entire link.

[05PWrockcrawler]

Love the pic! Love to see full size rigs wheeling especially the rare PW on a trail.


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[05PWrockcrawler]

Love the pic! Love to see full size rigs wheeling especially the rare PW on a trail.


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[RedMan]

Love the pic! Love to see full size rigs wheeling especially the rare PW on a trail.


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Not as much as I love to be on the trail with my full size truck Cannot wait to get my rear lockers fixed so that i can hit those trails again.

[azracer]

azracer/RedMan: What's you rod-eye center link to center link? How did you determine this lenght?

My goal was to at a minimum compensate for any additional lift I had so my height above OEM stock was 3/4" to 1" on the Carli 3" coils. My plan was that I would go 1" longer than OEM to make up for that height change. I do not recall the OEM length but at a minimum I would make up for any true lift over stock that you have.

In my case however I may need longer to be able to facilitate more droop because I have 12" travel shocks. This may require I do a link close to or the same as a 6" Carli coil kit (3" longer links) because of the additional droop the 12" travel shock provides. Won't know for sure until I cycle it and see how close to aming over the links are at full droop. I need a track bar first though as that OEM bar limits my passenger side droop to just under 10" on my truck.

The other option is a spacer between the frame and the sway bar mounts.

[Mr.Smith]

azracer/RedMan: What's you rod-eye center link to center link? How did you determine this lenght?

My goal was to at a minimum compensate for any additional lift I had so my height above OEM stock was 3/4" to 1" on the Carli 3" coils. My plan was that I would go 1" longer than OEM to make up for that height change. I do not recall the OEM length but at a minimum I would make up for any true lift over stock that you have.

In my case however I may need longer to be able to facilitate more droop because I have 12" travel shocks. This may require I do a link close to or the same as a 6" Carli coil kit (3" longer links) because of the additional droop the 12" travel shock provides. Won't know for sure until I cycle it and see how close to aming over the links are at full droop. I need a track bar first though as that OEM bar limits my passenger side droop to just under 10" on my truck.

The other option is a spacer between the frame and the sway bar mounts.

That is the kind of feed back I'm looking for, thank you, Sir.

[Mr.Smith]

Here's the Carli custom(stainless) sway bar end links(adapted from Carli torsion sway bar kit)...