Kill-switch for electronic nannies

[olyelr]

Post a picture of the fuse you pulled and amps.

Its the purple 30 amp near the center of this pic...

[olyelr]

It's the green 40A by itself in the middle of the box.



If it will fit under the lid of the fuse box, it looks like you'd just need to make one of these with a switch wired in.

http://www.aeswave.com/JCASE-Fuse-Exten ... p9267.html

No its the purple 30 one row down and to the left.

I will check out that link for sure!

[Rodeoflyer]

Lordy this site's bouncing tonight. The 30 amp, F26 middle pic next to the three 10a is the one I pulled. I'm not patching anything into my fusebox until deer season's over at the end of the month but retired blm guy is the right man after seeing his posts.

[Low_Sky]

Reloader Guy says that F06 works (ABS motor), you say that F26 works (ABS/BSM ECU/valves). We have options! That bigger 40A fuse looks easier to hack/solder on.

[Rodeoflyer]

I know I pulled 26 and everything, I mean EVERYTHING shut down.

[olyelr]

I know I pulled 26 and everything, I mean EVERYTHING shut down.

Same here.

[Low_Sky]

I just tested both, as well as can be tested in a flat, icy parking lot.

Pulling F06 gave me a "Service Electronic Braking" and "Service ABS" warning message on the EVIC, and lit up the (ABS) and ESC squiggly skid marks icons on the dash. The truck fired right up with the fuse pulled.

Pulling F26 game me a "Service ABS" warning message, and lit up (ABS), ESC and "BRAKE" icons. To start the truck, I had to advance through the "ACC" and "ON" ignition positions and push the start button a third time. (My truck has keyless enter-and-go, push button ignition)

Both fuses let me skid as far and bounce the engine off the rev limiter for as long as I dared in the next-door church parking lot.

[Reloaderguy]

I pulled F06 and everything shut down plus I got a blow job. I did use Fluid Film though.

[Rodeoflyer]

So we're in need of a Chrysler engineer and retired blm guy for the non-warranty work .

[adeluca73]

So...which one then...

[Low_Sky]

So...which one then...

The one that's easiest to get an inline fuse holder for, and to hack/solder on. TBD


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[olyelr]

I just tested both, as well as can be tested in a flat, icy parking lot.

Pulling F06 gave me a "Service Electronic Braking" and "Service ABS" warning message on the EVIC, and lit up the (ABS) and ESC squiggly skid marks icons on the dash. The truck fired right up with the fuse pulled.

Pulling F26 game me a "Service ABS" warning message, and lit up (ABS), ESC and "BRAKE" icons. To start the truck, I had to advance through the "ACC" and "ON" ignition positions and push the start button a third time. (My truck has keyless enter-and-go, push button ignition)

Both fuses let me skid as far and bounce the engine off the rev limiter for as long as I dared in the next-door church parking lot.

I noticed the same thing when I pulled the F26 fuse... had to push the start button 3 times in order to get the truck started.

[olyelr]

I pulled F06 and everything shut down plus I got a blow job. I did use Fluid Film though.

[olyelr]

Low_Sky, is that just an extension that was in that link you posted ( http://www.aeswave.com/JCASE-Fuse-Exten ... p9267.html )? Would that work for what we are trying to accomplish?

I like the idea of switching the bigger fuse if the start button doesn't have to be pressed 3 times.

[adeluca73]

Low_Sky, is that just an extension that was in that link you posted ( http://www.aeswave.com/JCASE-Fuse-Exten ... p9267.html )? Would that work for what we are trying to accomplish?

I like the idea of switching the bigger fuse if the start button doesn't have to be pressed 3 times.

But didn't you say F26 did a better job at shutting everything down? Do you need a special fuse puller or dies the thumb/index digit caliper work fine?

[Reloaderguy]

I'm not sure how much better you can do than ESC and ABS being completely off. I didn't pull F26 but F06 disabled ABS and ESC.

[olyelr]

Low_Sky, is that just an extension that was in that link you posted ( http://www.aeswave.com/JCASE-Fuse-Exten ... p9267.html )? Would that work for what we are trying to accomplish?

I like the idea of switching the bigger fuse if the start button doesn't have to be pressed 3 times.

But didn't you say F26 did a better job at shutting everything down? Do you need a special fuse puller or dies the thumb/index digit caliper work fine?

F26 shuts everything down yes. The only thing I noticed I didnt care for was I had to press the start button 3 times to get the truck started each time. No biggy, but if the other fuse shuts everything down as well and doesnt have this issue (which sounds like the case) then that might be the better one to switch. I am not sure which one would be easier to tap into though.

I had to finagle it out with my figures. I couldnt get a hold of it with that little yellow fuse grabber tool.

[Low_Sky]

F6 was easier to start the truck and fewer lights on the dash. It was also much easier to get out with the fuse puller that's inside the fuse box.

Olyelr, that extender that I linked to is a diagnostic tool, lets you read current with a clamp on meter.

It looks home made from a gutted fuse, an inline fuse holder and some heat shrink tube. I doubt it would be hard to make one with a switch wired in, whether that switch is inside the fuse box, or wired into the cab.


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[adeluca73]

What about pulling both.....?

[Retired BLM Rig]

Deleted (bad prototype).

[olyelr]

Thanks Retired!

Let me know when you have a kit made up and the cost with shipping to 49648!

[Rodeoflyer]

I don't think he's going into the harness making business but the blueprints are great and thank you sir! I'll eventually be doing this when time allows.

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[Bill2014]

I assume you will be able to flip the Hooligan switch off while the vehicle is running, but switching back on will require a vehicle restart to reset everything...

[jtcarlsen67]

I pulled F06 and everything shut down plus I got a blow job. I did use Fluid Film though.

lmao

[olyelr]

I assume you will be able to flip the Hooligan switch off while the vehicle is running, but switching back on will require a vehicle restart to reset everything...

I dont think so. I checked today (with the larger 40 amp fuse), and with the truck running I re-installed the fuse and everything went back to normal without having to restart. So, that leads me to believe it would not have to be restarted when using the switch.

The wire I used to tap into and cut the systems on my Jeep, I had to shut it off and restart it to get it to reset.