Bent axle

[Will]

Cheer up Will, seriously, it's not that bad. We've probably all learned a thing or two the hard way. I know I have lol. Shit I broke a trussed front axle. If an ifs rig or a regular solid axle truck without Thuren and boogies would have hit that washout it probably would have been completely fucked. You drove home after a gnarly hit. You should be proud of your girl for keeping it together like that. It sucks to need a front end when you're in the middle of building a house, and I'm sorry this happened but damn, what a beast for getting home under its own power.

It's just finding a new housing that's frustrating. I drove it to the house and worked all day yesterday, it's a tough one for sure when you think about it. I dont see this ending well because it's going to lead to more things. I'm definitely going to put Dons 3" coils in while it's apart. I'd go 6" but that's too much and I would break some shit then.

[Will]

Things are much easier to find on a desktop rather the phone... IF money was vast, here is the entire assembly for $3641.95 shipped.

Part Number: 68065463AB

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/sho ... ct=4611206

[Will]

Looking by part number 68065463AB, looks like the entire thing to me, I believe it has the axles also. What yall think? If it's a complete assembly, "add oil and roll" it sure would be the easy way out considering the time it would take to swap everything over to a housing that would cost $1200-$1700 best I can tell.

https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseact ... -AXLE-ASSY

[Will]

This is the housing only Part Number: 68065464AB
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__ ... 464AB.html

[Will]

Anybody know of a way I can measure and check the C's? Measuring from the ground the housing isn't that far out from what I've read, I may have bent the C's also and the combination makes it worse. I dont know where the C's should be stock though.

[Colibri]

Not sure of any way to accurately measure the c's while the axle is still under the truck. Call the nearest dealership parts department with your vin number and get accurate part numbers for bare housing and complete axle then order for way less online. If you do a Thuren or Carli truss you can weld both on a complete assembly even with the axle in the truck. If you want one like mine it needs to be a bare housing and drop shipped to creative fab in California. Haha I know how it goes, breaking=upgrade time! Shit, mopar discontinued the housing for my 09, it took me months to find an axle. Good luck with whatever you decide to do man!

[PWRider]

I'd almost sell this mo fo for cheap right now. Getting pissed off that it gave in so easily.

Don't despair. I've had exactly same feelings back than. Once you get it all fixed up it sure goes away. Although it makes you a bit more considerate. Still feels like a tank but a tanks that can be broken if you try hard enough.

[Will]

Yep, hopefully I'll get it straightened, trussed, longer coils, stiffer valving, ummm... maybe some other things but we'll see.

[MSCH2112]

if your really looking at almost 4k, and you have comprehensive insurance, you might consider making a claim.

mike

[PWRider]

This people seem to have one http://pieces.pickupbeauce.com/progicomm/en/index.cgi $1500 CAN

[Will]

if your really looking at almost 4k, and you have comprehensive insurance, you might consider making a claim.

mike

Thought about it and pointing out the cab dents from the topper also. Lol

[RustyPW]

if your really looking at almost 4k, and you have comprehensive insurance, you might consider making a claim.

mike

and claim that you hit a deer. People here do that all the time.

[FirerescuePW]

If you feel that parts may have self-clearanced, and you plan to drive to Georgia, I would drain, clean, and refill the oil and maybe slap a magnet in there. You may save a few parts that way. Your idea about removing the axles has some merit. You may be side loading bearings and locker parts. Hopefully the unit bearings come loose easily.

[Will]

If you feel that parts may have self-clearanced, and you plan to drive to Georgia, I would drain, clean, and refill the oil and maybe slap a magnet in there. You may save a few parts that way. Your idea about removing the axles has some merit. You may be side loading bearings and locker parts. Hopefully the unit bearings come loose easily.

Yep, I'll be heading North on Monday. I had already planned to change the diff fluids, front and rear this weekend, if not sooner. I already have the GP-101 filter mags in both.

I have a couple of responses from the guys out West, maybe I'll be able to ship mine to them and they work their magic. I haven't been able to locate anyone on the East side that is willing to straighten it. My cheapest option is to ship what I have and hopefully it can be corrected and trussed. Next option is a new housing, truss it, and then swap everything over. Last option is a new assembly, truss it, new axles, new ball joints (If the current ones are damaged) basically new entire front end.

[Will]

I dont think it's all that bad, not sure why I had scrubbing going on but will find out next week when I get another ride and start stripping it down. I took some pictures yesterday. It's hard trying to get a photo to show it bent, it's obvious when you see it in person though. I'm really thinking they can straighten it and truss it and it will be fine.

Not the best method but I took at square against the bottom of the tire, (in front of the bulge about where the wall straightens) to get a better picture of the camber.







The best I can tell from the concrete, where the passenger long tube meets the housing is 3/8" lower than the tubes on either side.




And a snap of each C in case one of you can tell if they look OK or if they are bent. I was thinking if I could check the distance between the upper C and the coil bucket if I knew what it's supposed to be.

[azracer]

Seriously.... The hit a dear and when I bounced over him it made these dents in the cab too is not a bad idea. Just get the new axle housing and send it out to be trussed while they order the other parts needed to swap the new trussed housing in. Have the new housing sent directly to Carli and get their low profile truss along with the C gussets and the Carli ball joints installed by them and be done with it! You will spend the same money out of pocket but get all those upgrades and the dents in the cab fixed as well! I would do it for sure!

Don't worry about karma as the insurance companies have a ton more negative Karma coming their way and you have likely been selected to deliver some of it to them LOL.

[Colibri]

I like the way this man thinks!

[Will]

Truss me, I've thought about a few times but if I can swing it without going through a claim, I will. The adjusters are like crime scene detectives around here. If you hit a deer, where's the hair? I'd feel like I was digging myself in a hole.

[Reloaderguy]

Option 4: Trade your truck in on a new one without cab dents.

[Will]

Option 4: Trade your truck in on a new one without cab dents.

I didn't want to say that but I did think about a 2500 4x4 regular cab with the 6.4 and imagined it on 37's with some e-lockers when I drove by the dealership yesterday...

I have some ideas though. Don's truss design got me to thinking. It's preloaded by design. Best I can tell, I'm 3/8" out. Looking at his install instructions and specifically the last piece that's installed. Could I take his truss, weld both ends out by the lower C's and install a piece of 1" threaded rod on the truss and the axle tube on the passenger side at the lowest point with a coupling nut between the two and then crank the bitch out until straight and lock it down?

[Reloaderguy]

I'll sell you my winch cradle...

[Will]

Why would I buy one when I have one. hahaha

[Reloaderguy]

For your new truck with the straight axle and no cab dents.

[PWRider]

Oh look. Your control arms are all bent too.

It's a considerable deviation from plumb on the wheels. You'd figure similar drop at the pumpkin. New center sections on 2010 are beefier. Maybe just maybe you bent passenger side axle tube. Get a filler gauge. And see if there is any gap where tube enters housing. Like so: (that is actually first f two front axles I bought. It was bent too, although spun freely).


On good axle it should be tight. Tubes are pressed-in. Any elongation obviously means housing been stretched. Only good for recycle. Why wouldn't you consider used axle. You can put a truss on it before mounting on truck. At $1500 any significant repair on your axle might easily blow past that.

[Will]

Thanks for the pointer, I'll check it out with the feelers as well. I am waiting on a price from a guy that says someone dropped a housing off at his shop 4 months ago and it's been sitting there since. He is going to contact the owner and see if they want to sell it. I'm a want new kind of person if I can't place my hands on it. I'd be too leery on buying a used one from being to worried it had it's own issues. I agree about the cost exceeding a new housing, however I am pressed for time and would have to set a full day aside to swap everything over and hope it all goes smooth. I haven't had good luck in the past setting ring and pinions, actually it was one bad experience with a Dana 44 on a Ford. I couldn't get it right and went through gears all the time. I dont know how picky the 9.25 is for gear set up but really dont want to go there if I dont have to.