Air actuated lockers on the PW?

[Chromolykid]

I've never had problems with slow locker engagement. But then again I clean my magnet and service my diffs regularly. I wonder how many of the dorks complaining have never changed their diff fluid...

Agreed. At least on our gen trucks. Mine worked okay, there IS a method for “fast” engagement and I’ve got it down now, but changing gear oil and cleaning magnets at 30k miles cut the engagement time from roughly 5 seconds down to 2. I have a harder time disengaging the front than anything else, but even that is typically less than 5 seconds if I do my part. You definitely have to learn what the truck wants, but it’s reliable once you do. Or maybe we’re just lucky... I’m sure some are easier than others.

[olyelr]

I've never had problems with slow locker engagement. But then again I clean my magnet and service my diffs regularly. I wonder how many of the dorks complaining have never changed their diff fluid...

Agreed. At least on our gen trucks. Mine worked okay, there IS a method for “fast” engagement and I’ve got it down now, but changing gear oil and cleaning magnets at 30k miles cut the engagement time from roughly 5 seconds down to 2. I have a harder time disengaging the front than anything else, but even that is typically less than 5 seconds if I do my part. You definitely have to learn what the truck wants, but it’s reliable once you do. Or maybe we’re just lucky... I’m sure some are easier than others.

And what is your “method”? I wanna try it!

[coder]

I have the locker bypass on my 3 Gen and it works about the same as before 5-10 seconds per axle though it randomly takes a little longer.

The 3 Gen locker bypass simply tricks the computer into reading the transfer case position sensor is in 4Low that's all. I'm not sure if the 4 Gen bypass in more sophisticated.

[Reloaderguy]

The 4th gen bypass powers the lockers by bypassing the factory harness. It is the same as hard wiring in switches only it retains the functionality of the rotary knob.

[Chromolykid]

And what is your “method”? I wanna try it!

Kind of hard to put into words, takes some experimenting to get the hang of it. It mostly has to do with taking any load off of the gears. That seems to be what the “smart” bar is always waiting for. Light throttle depending on terrain to get things rolling and then a slight turn to get the rear, then when I turn the opposite way the front gears unload and it locks in. Takes about 10-15 feet total. Can’t be stopped or going over 5mph. Turning too much delays it. Sorta feather the throttle lightly to keep the load on everything minimal. That’s about it, but I’ve never driven any PW besides mine, maybe each truck is different.

[TwinStick]

Mine engage & dis engage almost instantly, but it wasn't always that way. When new, it seemed like they would only engage on Feb 31st, when a unicorn was in my headlights ! Figure 8's got them working better. Oil changes & CAREFUL magnet cleaning every xxxxx miles helped a lot. Actually engaging them everyday, on the way to & from work helped IMMENSELY. Now i find that they still engage & dis engage quickly, but seem to dis engage even faster (almost instantly) if wheels are straight, coasting slowly with clutch depressed......when there is zero load on axles....... but most of you guys don't have one of those.

Smart bar re engages better when going over a bump.

[Chromolykid]

Haha yea I imagine a clutch would simplify things quite a bit. I also lock and unlock mine 2 or 3 times a week, just as a function check and because it seems to help them operate.

My smart bar is always disengaged with a link taken out, my number one complaint on this truck is the sway bar. I would do unspeakable things for a smart bar bypass that allows the bar to disconnect at any time.

[olyelr]

Kind of hard to put into words, takes some experimenting to get the hang of it. It mostly has to do with taking any load off of the gears. That seems to be what the “smart” bar is always waiting for. Light throttle depending on terrain to get things rolling and then a slight turn to get the rear, then when I turn the opposite way the front gears unload and it locks in. Takes about 10-15 feet total. Can’t be stopped or going over 5mph. Turning too much delays it. Sorta feather the throttle lightly to keep the load on everything minimal. That’s about it, but I’ve never driven any PW besides mine, maybe each truck is different.

Well thanks. I am kinda jiving with what you are throwing down, and I have not really tried that avenue before. I typically just turn the knob and cruise around for a bit.

[Low_Sky]

Once mine are warmed up, turning them on and off is a matter of alternating between forward and reverse, as chromolykid suggests, unloading the axles.

[Colibri]

I can engage mine front or rear at any speed in high or low range as long as I’m traveling in a straight line. Takes about half a second lol

[DocPaulo]

. Oil changes & CAREFUL magnet cleaning every xxxxx miles helped a lot. Actually engaging them everyday, on the way to & from work helped IMMENSELY.

My magnets were full of crud when i cleaned them... i put a neodynium bar magnet in the diff to keep the shavings away from the actuator magnets

Use high temp magnets like these

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail. ... d=B842-N52

[TwinStick]

Or these: http://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/gp/

http://www.jegs.com/i/FilterMAG/384/GP101/10002/-1

If putting one on the inside of your diff concerns you, then this one on the outside - if you have a flat spot big enough. http://www.jegs.com/i/FilterMAG/384/GP101/10002/-1

My Mag-Hytec rear diff cover has a magnetic drain plug and a magnetic dipstick. https://www.mag-hytec.com/differential.htm

[EasyDoesIt]

Or these: http://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/gp/

http://www.jegs.com/i/FilterMAG/384/GP101/10002/-1

If putting one on the inside of your diff concerns you, then this one on the outside - if you have a flat spot big enough. http://www.jegs.com/i/FilterMAG/384/GP101/10002/-1

My Mag-Hytec rear diff cover has a magnetic drain plug and a magnetic dipstick. https://www.mag-hytec.com/differential.htm

Those are nice options but damn are they $$.

Any problem with grabbing a stack of Neodymium Magnets for $20 and using them on diffs, trans, xfer, and oil pan?

[OffroadTreks]

If $21 is money, you have other problems to worry about.

[EasyDoesIt]

If $21 is money, you have other problems to worry about.

Maybe I wasn't clear, I'm leaning towards the 6 Neodymium Magnets on amazon for about $20 vs going through "FilterMag" or Jegs at $20 a piece.

So its $20 vs $100, $80 buys beer for a couple weeks.

Also I'm a cheap ass that loves to save a buck.

[Chromolykid]

The Filtermags are quality pieces, incredibly strong. Had to put mine in there with a putty knife to avoid leaving part of me in the truck.

[stooper]

For what it’s worth, the tj rubicons are air actuated.

[Reloaderguy]

For what it’s worth, the tj rubicons are air actuated.

Not so much.

[DocPaulo]

]

Those are nice options but damn are they $$.

Any problem with grabbing a stack of Neodymium Magnets for $20 and using them on diffs, trans, xfer, and oil pan?

Just make sure they are high temp rated. I posted a link to those...

[TwinStick]

On Filter-Mags: The red colored ones used to be much stronger than the black colored ones, like 3x stronger. That was 15 years ago.

Now, it seems the standard ones are the black colored ones & the yellow ones are the industrial duty ones. My PW has the anti-drip engine oil filter housing, so I can only fit one on it, but it is the red one & that sucker works awesome. So the red (if you can still get them) or the yellow is the way to go for maximum magnetic pull.

[olyelr]

For what it’s worth, the tj rubicons are air actuated.

Not so much.

Yea, pretty much.

[Juday]

Ah, reading things like this makes me glad I got the locker bypass a few years back. Takes about 2 seconds to lock either axle....in any range. Sorry, I had to rub it in.