Parasitic Drain?

rbpowerwagon · Post by **rbpowerwagon** » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:31 pm

Anyone know what a normal parasitic drain should be. I'm getting about 70mA when then the trucks been shut off for 30 minutes.

2010PWERWGN · Post by **2010PWERWGN** » Tue Jun 13, 2017 12:12 am

Acceptable limit is 35 milliamperes. Normally when I test a vehicle that has an acceptable draw it's less than 20. What method are you using to test for a draw. The reason I ask is that newer vehicles do take quite a while for all the modules to go to sleep but not usually more than 10 minutes. Lisle tools makes a great tester for checking a parasitic draw, the part number is 64970 and usually sells for around $30.

Ducky's Dad · Post by **Ducky's Dad** » Tue Jun 13, 2017 11:03 am

35ma is about right for my '05 in a resting state (all systems shut down ). When I tested my truck, i got readings from 25 to 55, and Dodge dealer said that was normal. However, my truck has an irritating habit of killing the main battery if the truck sits for more than a couple of weeks. Neither I nor the pros can find any abnormal drain, buy my Odyssey 31 will drop from 12.65V to 11.2V over a two week period with nothing on. It's baffling, but this is the third Odyssey 31 in this truck and they all do the same thing, so it must be something odd about the truck.

rbpowerwagon · Post by **rbpowerwagon** » Tue Jun 13, 2017 2:19 pm

I'm using a fluke 87v multimeter and measure after letting the truck rest for half hour. So I narrowed it down to Fuse m13.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Wed Jun 14, 2017 1:19 am

Do you have any aftermarket electrical accessories at all? I would start by unplugging anything that's not factory to see if it makes a difference. I added an aftermarket auto dimming rearview mirror with Homelink and because I tapped into a power source in the cab, somehow the body control module saw it as passenger presence and wouldn't go to sleep. Once I moved my power source to an ignition controlled relay out by the battery, everything was fine. If you're not the original owner, look under the dash for any wires that don't look factory (crimp on terminals, zip ties, messy electrical tape), unplug it and then check your draw again.

The M13 IOD fuse (Ignition Off Draw) is the fuse that's removed at the factory and then reinstalled by the dealer. They do this to keep the battery from going dead in transit. The IOD fuse is the circuit that provides memory maintaining power to the clock, radio presets, wireless control module (constantly listening for a key fob command from the driver). Basically any module that has memory that needs to be maintained gets it's power through this fuse. It's usually recommended that the IOD fuse be removed if the vehicle is going to be setting for two weeks or more, or add a battery trickle charger for long term storage. Any draw coming through the IOD fuse should be within the 35mA maximum draw spec. If you still have any other draw with the IOD fuse removed, keep looking for the source of your parasitic draw.

Bill2014 · Post by **Bill2014** » Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:37 am

I use one of these cheap $5.99 float chargers if I won't be running the vehicle for a few weeks or more...

Just connect it up and let it go. I've successfully used one of these connected continually for more than a year (on a boat)

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rbpowerwagon · Post by **rbpowerwagon** » Wed Jun 14, 2017 10:00 am

Thanks for everyone's input!
So far with the iod fuse pulled I am still getting a 10mA draw, not sure if that's normal. But doesn't seem to be coming from any of the fuses nor any aftermarket stuff.
So that leaves 50mA off of the iod fuse. With everything sleeping I draw 1-2 mA off the radio, 1-2 off the win module.
The rest of the stuff labeled I have no idea where to look.
As for the aftermarket stuff, it all comes directly off the battery and draws 0. The only part that draws any power is my bullydog tuner, which is 1mA.
Does any one know where to look for the CCN/WCM/ITM/MULTFNCT?
Could this be all contributed to a corroded or bad ground?

rbpowerwagon · Post by **rbpowerwagon** » Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:49 pm

So I have eliminated the following,
ITM: instrument cluster: 8mA
MULTFNCT SW: steering wheel controls: 1mA
WIN/WCM: 1-2mA
CLK MOD: radio power: 1-2mA

So that leaves the CCN and I can't seem to find where the fuck this thing is located.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Wed Jun 14, 2017 11:04 pm

From what I've read for your year truck the cabin compartment node (CCN) is another term for the body control module and is part of, or built into the instrument cluster.

I understand that you have a minor draw, but what are the symptoms of the problem you're having? When does it occur? How long does it take? Intermittent or constant?

rbpowerwagon · Post by **rbpowerwagon** » Wed Jun 14, 2017 11:26 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote:From what I've read for your year truck the cabin compartment node (CCN) is another term for the body control module and is part of, or built into the instrument cluster.

I understand that you have a minor draw, but what are the symptoms of the problem you're having? When does it occur? How long does it take? Intermittent or constant?

The problem I am having is after 2 weeks or so, if I don't drive it, it's hard starting as if the battery is weak. I have done a load test on the battery and it's fine. Never have I had this issue before. My truck could sit a month in the winter and it would start fine up until six months ago.

flattire · Post by **flattire** » Wed Jun 14, 2017 11:48 pm

Maybe the battery is just getting old.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Thu Jun 15, 2017 2:47 am

This is what I use for long-term storage.

Bill2014 · Post by **Bill2014** » Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:09 am

On sale for July 4th at Harbor Freight

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Post by **Pit Slave** » Mon Jul 03, 2017 1:11 pm

Bill2014 wrote:On sale for July 4th at Harbor Freight

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I remember a couple of years ago they were $2 ea.

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

TwinStick · Post by **TwinStick** » Tue Jul 04, 2017 6:23 pm

I have the same issue. Worse now that I have an led light switch that is illuminated if it is on or off. I gave up trying to have them figure it out. It is now up to $129 hr for labor !! I just keep it plugged in to one of theses: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... tainer-15a

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