Got water in stock air filter now truck ticks hard and loud

[bigchelis]

Hi all,
Got water in stock air filter now truck ticks hard and loud and then shuts off. I did dry the airbox, put a new filter and did an oil change. I had about 2~4oz of water drain out of the oil pan while taking out the old oil.

Surprisingly, when I first got out of the water puddle the truck leaked Oil heavily too which was strange.

I plan to remove the valve covers and check for push rods or valve issues and do that MDS delete if that's what it appears like all that it needs.

Worse case scenario I have to look for another 5.7L hemi and drop it right in. If this is the case I rather purchase a longblock with a good cam and MDS delete already in it. Hoping for sub $5K range and just put my engine accessories, harness, ect... and do the install myself.

I have purchased longblocks from other high performance builders like Fox lake Racing and Powerheads and both gave me defective engines but did fix the issues but complete waste of time having to do the work twice. So, hopefully I can find a good shop in north California to be honest and offer warranty.

Any input appreciated.

Best,
bigC

[bigchelis]

Once I confirm the valves and pushrods are ok then the ticking noise is something in the engine (90% sure this is the problem)

I will take the truck to a Machine shop/full service shop. They offer for me to drop it off and they will take out the engine, rebuild w/MDS Delete and higher lift cam for more TQ in lower RPM's and then reinstall and have it ready for me to pick it up and drive home with 2 yrs warranty/24K miles.

All for about $5K.

Seems like I might end up just doing this.

Best,
bigC

[RamGentry]

Ouch, you seem pretty handy but that is a lot of work. I dont know how much time and $ it would take you to replace the engine but I would compare that to the 5k quoted and see what its worth to ya. I know for me i'd have someone else to the instal w/ a warranty and save a shit ton of time and aggravation...but thats me.

How deep of water did you go through?

[bigchelis]

Ouch, you seem pretty handy but that is a lot of work. I dont know how much time and $ it would take you to replace the engine but I would compare that to the 5k quoted and see what its worth to ya. I know for me i'd have someone else to the instal w/ a warranty and save a shit ton of time and aggravation...but thats me.

How deep of water did you go through?

Was about hood line or slightly below it for about 2 minutes.

The other shop around me is not a machine shop and wants $5K for a misc. used engine they source from somewhere and offer 12month/12K warranty, so I would still have a stock camshaft and no good MDS system.

I have put in rebuilt engines and used engines only to have them be bad and returning them for warranty replacements its been bad luck and a huge pain in the ass. Last time it took me almost 9 months of fighting with machine shop to prove how they messed up and finally they gave me a replacement engine. Hence why this time I rather just drop it off and 2 weeks later pick up my like new truck with warranty and more power via smog legal high lift cam and MDS Delete. I would have shop put a shorty header but likely not worth it since I live in California and have to get smog legal ones.

bigC

[coder]

What year is your truck, won't you will need to custom tune if you remove MDS and change the cam?

[rgory]

Hope your engine troubles pan out, that certainly sounds like a lot of water. It appears that you have a 2005 PW and I do not believe the PW came with MDS back then. Either way let us know how it goes.

[coder]

If you have an 05 rgory is right no MDS, there are some differences between a 1500 Hemi and a 2500 Hemi so be careful what you get. If you want ease of install and reliability get a factory rebuilt long-block and put it in yourself. It is hit and miss with aftermarket engine builders even the good ones.

[nts007]

I have a spare hemi. But I'm too far away. Check salvage yards. You may find a low mileage hemi. Also if I'm not totally mistaken the lx platform cars (charger 300c magnum) engines will work with the oil pan swap and I believe something in the accessory setup. So that may help with the options. As long as your computers are still good. Nice thing with 05 you don't have many compared to 06 and up. Good luck though. We had a 07 suck water in years ago. Nightmare.

[loveracing1988]

No power wagon or any HD ram came with mods until the 6.4 came out, so you don't have to worry about any mds delete.

[bigchelis]

Ok so that's a relief that I don't have an MDS system

If I have to rebuild I kinda was hoping for a cam but if it's going to make the computer act up or go crazy than maybe not a good idea

[Will]

Are you sure it's not cracked exhaust manifolds? How does it run other than making a tick? Valve train needs to be checked but maybe it's not as bad as you're thinking.

[bigchelis]

Are you sure it's not cracked exhaust manifolds? How does it run other than making a tick? Valve train needs to be checked but maybe it's not as bad as you're thinking.

It sounds like all those youtube videos that claim Hemi tick or Hemi valve tick ect... If you have this issue and are lucky you just change top end components and it fixes the issue. That's what I am praying for at the moment.

There are dozens of youtube videos of Magnums, 300's, RAM 1500, misc 5.7 Hemi engines with cams and I presume they use similar wiring harness and seems like they don't complain about computer codes or check engine light issues with cam swaps. ect.


bigC

[TwinStick]

Are you sure it's not cracked exhaust manifolds? How does it run other than making a tick? Valve train needs to be checked but maybe it's not as bad as you're thinking.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Yes, this is my first thought as well. Manifold bolts are known for breaking & if yours were not broke yet, a sudden dip of cold water compared to the hot exhaust could certainly cause them to instantly crack. Maybe you got lucky & thats all it is. I would do more than one oil & filter change also.

I know most people don't do it but before a deep water crossing, it is a good idea to shut off the vehicle as long as you can before crossing. Even hot axles will suck water in the vent tube when cooled quickly. Better check everything. Transmission, t-case & axles, even the fuel tank overflow/charcoal canister.

[bigchelis]

So, I took the heads off the power wagon and everything looked perfect. The truck is perfect now and running like a new truck which it technically is now.

The outcome: One of the connecting rods got loose and hit the engine side wall cracking the engine block 2 times and making 2 huge holes. That's why it was leaking oil. I ended up getting a used shortblock and having that with my top end rebuilt. While there it now has new water pump, hoses, engine mounts, and spark plugs, and all drivetrain oils changed as well. The rebuild shop warranty is 2 year/24K miles warranty.

So, we are painfully but happily back in business driving the powerwagon again

[TwinStick]

Well, that was an expensive lesson. If doing any water crossings, i would advise a raised air intake/snorkel, an electric fan w/on/off switch & to wait until truck cools down completely before crossing (meaning: start a cold truck, turn fan off & cross the water). That will all but eliminate this problem in the future.

[MOPARManiac]

I choose to not use my Powerwagon as a boat.