Wheel Talk

If it's about Power Wagons, all generations, this is where it'll go. This is the original PWR Forum Power Wagon Technical Discussion Section. And this includes everything that doesn’t fit in any one of the other categories related to the truck goes here!
azracer
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by azracer » Sat Nov 28, 2015 2:42 pm

Just for reference.

The OEM forged and polished aluminum wheels have the following dimensions:
Size: 17"x8"
Offset: 43.18mm (1.700") positive
Backspace: 6.25"

Hummer H2 wheels have the following dimensions:
Size: 17"x8.5"
Offset: 18mm (0.709") positive
Backspace: 5.563"

Backspace is the measurement from the wheel mounting face to the outer most portion of the rim lip on the inboard side of the wheel. Put the wheel flat on the floor and measure from the floor to the mounting face. You will be dead on when comparing wheels to the OEM back spacing as this will take into account the offset when measuring the back spacing. This will not take into account any difference in rim width as your offset will determine where any extra width will show up inboard or outboard of the center line of the wheel.

Offset is the measurement from the wheel mounting face to the center line of the wheels width. Positive offset pushes the mounting face outboard of the wheel center line. Negative offset pushes the mounting face inboard of the wheel center line. A smaller positive number when compared to an OEM wheel at 6.25", moves the rim further away from the center of the truck. So the smaller that positive number is... the tire will stick out farther in reference to the fender lip.

You must also consider the rim width and offset as part of your backspace reference calculation. This is why the H2 is so close to OEM with a 0.5" wider wheel. It has less positive offset (-0.991) combined with slightly wider wheel at .5" and the reduction in backspacing (0.687) puts it very close to the OEM location. In reality I'm told it sticks out overall about 0.75" more than OEM Wheel when using the same exact tire on the H2 0.5" wider wheel. From the way it looks on my truck I would say 0.75" is very close.

Backspace is the more important number to be concerned with when sourcing aftermarket wheels, especially when you go wider than OEM.

.
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1) Quigley’s Anglo-American Establishment – 354 pages http://www.carrollquigley.net/pdf/the_a ... shment.pdf
2) Wall Street and the Bolshevik Revolution by Antony C. Sutton 165 pages https://www.voltairenet.org/IMG/pdf/Sut ... tion-5.pdf
3) Wall Street & the Rise of Hitler by Antony C. Sutton 148 pages https://www.voltairenet.org/IMG/pdf/Sut ... Hitler.pdf
4) Wall Street and FDR by Antony C. Sutton 177 pages http://sandiego.indymedia.org/media/2007/02/125049.pdf
5) Dishonest Money by Joseph Plummer 175 pages http://joeplummer.com/dishonest-money.html
6) None Dare Call it Conspiracy by Gary Allen 197 pages http://www.outpost-of-freedom.com/libra ... y_1971.pdf
David Rockefeller: Memoirs (The story of traitors)
http://www.devvy.com/pdf/2006_November/ ... rnment.pdf

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RamGentry
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by RamGentry » Sat Nov 28, 2015 5:21 pm

^^^^ Great info :D
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by olyelr » Sat Nov 28, 2015 9:10 pm

azracer wrote:Just for reference.

The OEM forged and polished aluminum wheels have the following dimensions:
Size: 17"x8"
Offset: 43.18mm (1.700") positive
Backspace: 6.25"

Hummer H2 wheels have the following dimensions:
Size: 17"x8.5"
Offset: 18mm (0.709") positive
Backspace: 5.563"

Backspace is the measurement from the wheel mounting face to the outer most portion of the rim lip on the inboard side of the wheel. Put the wheel flat on the floor and measure from the floor to the mounting face. You will be dead on when comparing wheels to the OEM back spacing as this will take into account the offset when measuring the back spacing. This will not take into account any difference in rim width as your offset will determine where any extra width will show up inboard or outboard of the center line of the wheel.

Offset is the measurement from the wheel mounting face to the center line of the wheels width. Positive offset pushes the mounting face outboard of the wheel center line. Negative offset pushes the mounting face inboard of the wheel center line. A smaller positive number when compared to an OEM wheel at 6.25", moves the rim further away from the center of the truck. So the smaller that positive number is... the tire will stick out farther in reference to the fender lip.

You must also consider the rim width and offset as part of your backspace reference calculation. This is why the H2 is so close to OEM with a 0.5" wider wheel. It has less positive offset (-0.991) combined with slightly wider wheel at .5" and the reduction in backspacing (0.687) puts it very close to the OEM location. In reality I'm told it sticks out overall about 0.75" more than OEM Wheel when using the same exact tire on the H2 0.5" wider wheel. From the way it looks on my truck I would say 0.75" is very close.

Backspace is the more important number to be concerned with when sourcing aftermarket wheels, especially when you go wider than OEM.

.
Well, using your wheel specs above the PW wheels stick out 1.75" beyond the wheel mounting surface, while the H2 wheels are 2.937" beyond the wheel mounting surface. So by those calculations, I would say the H2 wheels will stick out roughly 1.187" further than the PW wheels.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by azracer » Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:51 pm

olyelr wrote:
azracer wrote:Just for reference.

The OEM forged and polished aluminum wheels have the following dimensions:
Size: 17"x8"
Offset: 43.18mm (1.700") positive
Backspace: 6.25"

Hummer H2 wheels have the following dimensions:
Size: 17"x8.5"
Offset: 18mm (0.709") positive
Backspace: 5.563"

Backspace is the measurement from the wheel mounting face to the outer most portion of the rim lip on the inboard side of the wheel. Put the wheel flat on the floor and measure from the floor to the mounting face. You will be dead on when comparing wheels to the OEM back spacing as this will take into account the offset when measuring the back spacing. This will not take into account any difference in rim width as your offset will determine where any extra width will show up inboard or outboard of the center line of the wheel.

Offset is the measurement from the wheel mounting face to the center line of the wheels width. Positive offset pushes the mounting face outboard of the wheel center line. Negative offset pushes the mounting face inboard of the wheel center line. A smaller positive number when compared to an OEM wheel at 6.25", moves the rim further away from the center of the truck. So the smaller that positive number is... the tire will stick out farther in reference to the fender lip.

You must also consider the rim width and offset as part of your backspace reference calculation. This is why the H2 is so close to OEM with a 0.5" wider wheel. It has less positive offset (-0.991) combined with slightly wider wheel at .5" and the reduction in backspacing (0.687) puts it very close to the OEM location. In reality I'm told it sticks out overall about 0.75" more than OEM Wheel when using the same exact tire on the H2 0.5" wider wheel. From the way it looks on my truck I would say 0.75" is very close.

Backspace is the more important number to be concerned with when sourcing aftermarket wheels, especially when you go wider than OEM.

.
Well, using your wheel specs above the PW wheels stick out 1.75" beyond the wheel mounting surface, while the H2 wheels are 2.937" beyond the wheel mounting surface. So by those calculations, I would say the H2 wheels will stick out roughly 1.187" further than the PW wheels.
Back when I was looking into my options I went to Discount tire to get all the above info. I also thought it was about 1.1" farther out but the Discount tire guy subtracted .25 for the 0.5 additional rim width. I thought it all went on the outside based on the numbers but he insisted it was split between the inside and outside. He is their Rim fitment guru. He answers all the fitment calculations for southern Arizona Discount dealers and was trained by them to do that job so I just let it go. Why quibble about little more than .25" is how I figured it and is why I said I was told and did not say that I calculated it to be about .75". I knew someone would do the math too but I still opted to go with posting what the trained tech told me it was. :rofl:
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Beginners reading list:
1) Quigley’s Anglo-American Establishment – 354 pages http://www.carrollquigley.net/pdf/the_a ... shment.pdf
2) Wall Street and the Bolshevik Revolution by Antony C. Sutton 165 pages https://www.voltairenet.org/IMG/pdf/Sut ... tion-5.pdf
3) Wall Street & the Rise of Hitler by Antony C. Sutton 148 pages https://www.voltairenet.org/IMG/pdf/Sut ... Hitler.pdf
4) Wall Street and FDR by Antony C. Sutton 177 pages http://sandiego.indymedia.org/media/2007/02/125049.pdf
5) Dishonest Money by Joseph Plummer 175 pages http://joeplummer.com/dishonest-money.html
6) None Dare Call it Conspiracy by Gary Allen 197 pages http://www.outpost-of-freedom.com/libra ... y_1971.pdf
David Rockefeller: Memoirs (The story of traitors)
http://www.devvy.com/pdf/2006_November/ ... rnment.pdf

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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by olyelr » Sun Nov 29, 2015 9:43 pm

azracer wrote: Back when I was looking into my options I went to Discount tire to get all the above info. I also thought it was about 1.1" farther out but the Discount tire guy subtracted .25 for the 0.5 additional rim width. I thought it all went on the outside based on the numbers but he insisted it was split between the inside and outside. He is their Rim fitment guru. He answers all the fitment calculations for southern Arizona Discount dealers and was trained by them to do that job so I just let it go. Why quibble about little more than .25" is how I figured it and is why I said I was told and did not say that I calculated it to be about .75". I knew someone would do the math too but I still opted to go with posting what the trained tech told me it was. :rofl:
Yeah usually the pros are the guys to trust. But in this case the pro is wrong. Its just simple math between backspacing and rim width. The offset is not needed at all if you have those two numbers.

He can split the extra rim width in half if he wants, or add it all to the inside of the wheel if he wants, but once you calculate in the backspacing... well it pushes it all back out hahahaha.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by olyelr » Sun Nov 29, 2015 9:57 pm

Here are the specs for the AEV wheels...

Application: 2010+ Ram 2500/3500
Size: 17x8.5
Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5
Offset: +27mm
Approximate Backspacing: 6”




I am not really sure why they claim they are only for 2010 and up (they should work for all PW just fine). Also not sure why the backspacing number is approximate.

According to the specs azracer got, these are an in-between of the stock PW wheels and the H2 wheels. They will stick out roughly 3/4" further than the stock PW wheels and about a 1/2" in from the H2 wheels.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by Colibri » Sun Nov 29, 2015 10:30 pm

I thought 4th gens had metric studs whereas 3rd gens used 9/16" studs, that may account for the fitment on 2010+ only?
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by loveracing1988 » Sun Nov 29, 2015 11:10 pm

Colibri wrote:I thought 4th gens had metric studs whereas 3rd gens used 9/16" studs, that may account for the fitment on 2010+ only?
I saw this to, but I'm running 2005 power wagon rims on my 2014 with no problems.

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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by GunniPWguy » Mon Nov 30, 2015 1:42 pm

Ducky's Dad wrote:Powder coat a set of H2 wheels with Dodge center caps and nobody will know that they are not the froo froo race wheels. Except the people who count. Us. And we are the only ones who really matter.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by usmc369 » Mon Nov 30, 2015 2:37 pm

Why would you go to 2005 wheels from a 2014? 2014 are forged 1 piece wheels according to allpar.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by Pit Slave » Mon Nov 30, 2015 2:47 pm

The 2005 Power Wagon wheels are also a one piece forged unit..... USA made. Perhaps it's his way of making it more of an American made truck? :P

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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by RustyPW » Mon Nov 30, 2015 4:17 pm

2005 to 2008.5 forged Alcoa, made in the USA. 2008.5 and up. Forged Alcoa, made in china. :cry: If you look on the inside of the rim. It's stamped.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by usmc369 » Mon Nov 30, 2015 4:36 pm

Unless it was an even trade, it seems to be a colossal waste of money to have a Made in the USA stamp on the inside rim.lol
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by olyelr » Mon Nov 30, 2015 8:22 pm

For what it is worth, the AEV wheels are made in china also. They arnt happy about it, though, but cant find anyone in the states to make them at the moment.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by loveracing1988 » Mon Nov 30, 2015 9:49 pm

usmc369 wrote:Why would you go to 2005 wheels from a 2014? 2014 are forged 1 piece wheels according to allpar.
If you are referencing my post it is because my truck is not a power wagon, it was and still is my dream truck but I needed more payload.

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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by adeluca73 » Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:02 pm

Though both 2005-2013 & 2014+ are both forged polished 1-pc Aluminum wheels, the '05-13 have that pesky center hub plastic cover that tends to become off-road donation adornments, the 2014+ do not, just a small metal cap, that would be enough to sway me to heavily consider the current wheel over others. Plus they look decent enough not to be hateful.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by Stickman » Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:27 pm

Not to get off topic but didn't Ram stop sourcing wheels from Alcoa sometime during 2011-2012? Thought I read that somewhere...
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by RustyPW » Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:33 pm

olyelr wrote:For what it is worth, the AEV wheels are made in china also. They arnt happy about it, though, but cant find anyone in the states to make them at the moment.
They can get the wheels made in the states, but don't want to paid for it. It's all about price point.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by Graveltravels » Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:50 pm

I have a set of earlier pw wheels too, that I powder coated dodge mineral grey, and run for winter. Keep my new ones for summer use with a set of mt's on them.


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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by vanished » Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:49 am

adeluca73 wrote:Though both 2005-2013 & 2014+ are both forged polished 1-pc Aluminum wheels, the '05-13 have that pesky center hub plastic cover that tends to become off-road donation adornments, the 2014+ do not, just a small metal cap, that would be enough to sway me to heavily consider the current wheel over others. Plus they look decent enough not to be hateful.
I always just popped mine off before going wheeling... ;)

IIRC they switched away from the USA rims in mid '06 long before the redesign...


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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by Alakablamo » Tue Dec 01, 2015 4:08 pm

Not a Power Wagon, but I run just about the same wheel as RustyPW.

Rotary forged
Polished finish
Made in the U.S.A.
Reasonably priced
Clean styling
3200 lb. load rating for a 44" tire... overbuilt for my application. I'm sure the studs will all shear off before the wheel breaks.

I found a set of low-profile center caps on Ebay that fit, and I run composite centering rings to keep everything hubcentric. Never had any balance problems whatsoever.
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by vanished » Tue Dec 01, 2015 6:13 pm

loveracing1988 wrote:
usmc369 wrote:Why would you go to 2005 wheels from a 2014? 2014 are forged 1 piece wheels according to allpar.
If you are referencing my post it is because my truck is not a power wagon, it was and still is my dream truck but I needed more payload.
Were you able to find the stock 17" weight rating? I've tossed the idea around and am again now that I'll need tires in the spring (mine are 18's) but I need every bit of the stock 3500 SRW capability also...

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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by RustyPW » Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:31 pm

Alakablamo wrote:Not a Power Wagon, but I run just about the same wheel as RustyPW.

Rotary forged
Polished finish
Made in the U.S.A.
Reasonably priced
Clean styling
3200 lb. load rating for a 44" tire... overbuilt for my application. I'm sure the studs will all shear off before the wheel breaks.

I found a set of low-profile center caps on Ebay that fit, and I run composite centering rings to keep everything hubcentric. Never had any balance problems whatsoever.
Nice looking wheel. :rockon: What back spacing you go with?
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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by loveracing1988 » Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:36 pm

vanished wrote:
loveracing1988 wrote:
usmc369 wrote:Why would you go to 2005 wheels from a 2014? 2014 are forged 1 piece wheels according to allpar.
If you are referencing my post it is because my truck is not a power wagon, it was and still is my dream truck but I needed more payload.
Were you able to find the stock 17" weight rating? I've tossed the idea around and am again now that I'll need tires in the spring (mine are 18's) but I need every bit of the stock 3500 SRW capability also...
I did not.

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Re: Wheel Talk

Post by Alakablamo » Wed Dec 02, 2015 9:50 am

RustyPW wrote:Nice looking wheel. :rockon: What back spacing you go with?
I went with the 17"x8" size because I don't ever plan on running anything larger than about a 12" wide tire. Only offset for that size and bolt pattern is 0mm, so the backspace is 4.5". This is a 2005 Ram 1500, so it only moved the wheel outward 1" from stock.

I installed tube UCA's, and the upper ball joint boot touched the tire (LT285/70R17 Duratracs) with the OEM off-road wheels, so I needed a little more clearance. The Centerlines clear the boot well, and don't push the tire out too far.
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