Transmission fluid

[stamm20]

What's everyone's opinion on what fluid for our automatic transmission and transfer case? I was looking at royal purple just want to see what everyone thinks.

[Big Blue]

I'm a huge fan of Royal Purple. Local off road shop owner did a series of comparisons/tests and RP always came out on top. Maintains a much lower operating temperature. That's all he'll use.

[adeluca73]

Before I left Fl to move to Fairbanks, Alaska, I changed all the fluids in my '06 F-250 Powerstroke & replaced w/ Amsoil products. It was really expensive, nearly $500, but well worth it & never had any issues on the 5000mile drive pulling 7500lbs, or when it was -60deg outside. Sells itself really.

[bajaben48]

Before I left Fl to move to Fairbanks, Alaska, I changed all the fluids in my '06 F-250 Powerstroke & replaced w/ Amsoil products. It was really expensive, nearly $500, but well worth it & never had any issues on the 5000mile drive pulling 7500lbs, or when it was -60deg outside. Sells itself really.

Adeluca...I thought I read somewhere that you are military. If so what branch? I am army eod

sent from a deep hole know only in fabels

[TwinStick]

Your choice really. Lots of good stuff out there today. Royal Purple, Amsoil, even the stock ATF+4 is really good stuff(full synthetic & high & low temp stable). I am also a big fan of Lucas Lube. I currently am running a 1qt ATF+4 & 1qt Lucas Lube gear oil mix in my Transfer case. Royal Purple & Lucas Lube mix in my diffs. 4 qts ATF+4 & the rest Lucas Lube gear oil in my G56 manual transmission. Royal Purple in the engine. Royal Purple in the power steering. Many people cringe because i mix. I mix because i feel that sometimes the spec fluid is just too damn thin (transmission & transfer case), or because it just don't last long enough before i hear/feel chatter because it has lost it's "sheer stability" (diffs).
I have had zero issues. My truck shifts great, tows at max load great & the fluid looks great when i have drained it or looked at it. I also overfill my transmission, diffs & transfer case, by using ramps. I tow at max load with ours. Just keep your vent tubes clear, so you don't blow a seal.

Here is some other great fluids & stuff to read.
http://www.mag-hytec.com/oil-1605DUOLEC.htm
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/trans ... wing-axle/

http://www.schaefferoil.com/

[adeluca73]

Your choice really. Lots of good stuff out there today. Royal Purple, Amsoil, even the stock ATF+4 is really good stuff(full synthetic & high & low temp stable). I am also a big fan of Lucas Lube. I currently am running a 1qt ATF+4 & 1qt Lucas Lube gear oil mix in my Transfer case. Royal Purple & Lucas Lube mix in my diffs. 4 qts ATF+4 & the rest Lucas Lube gear oil in my G56 manual transmission. Royal Purple in the engine. Royal Purple in the power steering. Many people cringe because i mix. I mix because i feel that sometimes the spec fluid is just too damn thin (transmission & transfer case), or because it just don't last long enough before i hear/feel chatter because it has lost it's "sheer stability" (diffs).
I have had zero issues. My truck shifts great, tows at max load great & the fluid looks great when i have drained it or looked at it. I also overfill my transmission, diffs & transfer case, by using ramps. I tow at max load with ours. Just keep your vent tubes clear, so you don't blow a seal.

Here is some other great fluids & stuff to read.
http://www.mag-hytec.com/oil-1605DUOLEC.htm
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/trans ... wing-axle/
http://www.schaefferoil.com/

You say you overfill your diff's, but the article you attached specifically states replacing your diff cover to increase capacity rather than overfilling a standard cover is preferable:

"Oil levels that are too high actually make the axle run hotter due to fluid friction and aeration. The higher-capacity covers increase capacity while keeping the actual level the same, or close to it."

[adeluca73]

Before I left Fl to move to Fairbanks, Alaska, I changed all the fluids in my '06 F-250 Powerstroke & replaced w/ Amsoil products. It was really expensive, nearly $500, but well worth it & never had any issues on the 5000mile drive pulling 7500lbs, or when it was -60deg outside. Sells itself really.

Adeluca...I thought I read somewhere that you are military. If so what branch? I am army eod

sent from a deep hole know only in fabels

Yes, yes I am...Lt Col, USAF, West Point '95. BEAT NAVY!

[coder]

Any name brand ATF +4 fluid will do the job just fine, also be sure to change it at the recommended intervals and you will most likely not have any fluid related problems. You can purchase other high-end fluid, but AFT +4 is a high end synthetic fluid.

[MOPARManiac]

Before I left Fl to move to Fairbanks, Alaska, I changed all the fluids in my '06 F-250 Powerstroke & replaced w/ Amsoil products. It was really expensive, nearly $500, but well worth it & never had any issues on the 5000mile drive pulling 7500lbs, or when it was -60deg outside. Sells itself really.

Adeluca...I thought I read somewhere that you are military. If so what branch? I am army eod

sent from a deep hole know only in fabels

Yes, yes I am...Lt Col, USAF, West Point '95. BEAT NAVY!

Air Force, West Point?

[bajaben48]

Before I left Fl to move to Fairbanks, Alaska, I changed all the fluids in my '06 F-250 Powerstroke & replaced w/ Amsoil products. It was really expensive, nearly $500, but well worth it & never had any issues on the 5000mile drive pulling 7500lbs, or when it was -60deg outside. Sells itself really.

Adeluca...I thought I read somewhere that you are military. If so what branch? I am army eod

sent from a deep hole know only in fabels

Yes, yes I am...Lt Col, USAF, West Point '95. BEAT NAVY!

Nice!. Some of my best times in the military were when I was stationed on air force bases. I loved kirtland afb in new Mexico

sent from a deep hole know only in fabels

[2011RPW]

I use Amsoil, bumper to bumper.

[TwinStick]

Do what ever works for you. I have done this on 3 trucks with zero issues. Most Dodge axle failures are "officially" due to "pinion bearing failure due to lack of lubrication". That is right from the dealers. Google "Dodge axle failures." You get 687,000 in .27 seconds.

If the truck is brand new & has NEVER had the diff covers off & there is ZERO leaks---then how can those findings be correct, if it was filled to the proper spec from the factory ???

Lets think about that for a minute.

Only logical answer is: the fluid spec is too low & when moving, it obviously is not slinging the oil where it is supposed to.

Increased capacity diff covers are always good BUT, if the fluid level is the same & all the gears are still in the same spot, how will it sling oil any differently ?

Do what ever works for you. I was simply trying to share some info & my personal experiences.

The ones who sell the diff covers &/or donate the diff covers to magazines will almost always say "their product" is preferable to a higher level & also get favorable reviews. Over filling a little is something that cost nothing yet could save you big $$$$ in the long run.

Even some after market covers have higher than factory fill holes on them now, just for that reason. Take a rear tire off. Look at your rear axle from the side. Have someone hold their finger 5/8" below the fill hole (factory spec). Then look at where the top of the pinion bearing is. Then take into consideration the fluid level drop when moving. It is not even close to reaching the pinion bearing. So "slinging" is all we got. By over filling a little, it puts the odds more in your favor rather than in the dealers favor when it goes bad after warranty is up.

In 2004, before the release to the public of the "all new Power Wagon", they took a fleet of them "to an undisclosed location" for testing. It was hot out. 100* F. By the end of the day, they broke the rear diff on one of them. Official findings "pinion bearing failure due to lack of lubrication, causing gear mis alignment & then self destruction"

The 2nd time he went with the fleet, they were towing at max load, in a VERY hot area & climbing steep hills (on road). They had another rear axle failure. Findings were exactly the same. The person who shared this info does NOT want to be identified & obviously with good reason. Good jobs are hard to find these days. They do have issues. They do know about them. I think it is called "part life expectancy" or "future revenue" or "designed failure" or something of that nature.

Do what works for you.

[adeluca73]

Adeluca...I thought I read somewhere that you are military. If so what branch? I am army [/quote]

Yes, yes I am...Lt Col, USAF, West Point '95. BEAT NAVY![/quote]

Air Force, West Point?[/quote]
Yeah, I know... But when you do well there, you have more choices

[adeluca73]

Do what ever works for you. I have done this on 3 trucks with zero issues. Most Dodge axle failures are "officially" due to "pinion bearing failure due to lack of lubrication". That is right from the dealers. Google "Dodge axle failures." You get 687,000 in .27 seconds.

If the truck is brand new & has NEVER had the diff covers off & there is ZERO leaks---then how can those findings be correct, if it was filled to the proper spec from the factory ???

Lets think about that for a minute.

Only logical answer is: the fluid spec is too low & when moving, it obviously is not slinging the oil where it is supposed to.

Increased capacity diff covers are always good BUT, if the fluid level is the same & all the gears are still in the same spot, how will it sling oil any differently ?

Do what ever works for you. I was simply trying to share some info & my personal experiences.

The ones who sell the diff covers &/or donate the diff covers to magazines will almost always say "their product" is preferable to a higher level & also get favorable reviews. Over filling a little is something that cost nothing yet could save you big $$$$ in the long run.

Even some after market covers have higher than factory fill holes on them now, just for that reason. Take a rear tire off. Look at your rear axle from the side. Have someone hold their finger 5/8" below the fill hole (factory spec). Then look at where the top of the pinion bearing is. Then take into consideration the fluid level drop when moving. It is not even close to reaching the pinion bearing. So "slinging" is all we got. By over filling a little, it puts the odds more in your favor rather than in the dealers favor when it goes bad after warranty is up.

In 2004, before the release to the public of the "all new Power Wagon", they took a fleet of them "to an undisclosed location" for testing. It was hot out. 100* F. By the end of the day, they broke the rear diff on one of them. Official findings "pinion bearing failure due to lack of lubrication, causing gear mis alignment & then self destruction"

The 2nd time he went with the fleet, they were towing at max load, in a VERY hot area & climbing steep hills (on road). They had another rear axle failure. Findings were exactly the same. The person who shared this info does NOT want to be identified & obviously with good reason. Good jobs are hard to find these days. They do have issues. They do know about them. I think it is called "part life expectancy" or "future revenue" or "designed failure" or something of that nature.

Do what works for you.

Thanks for that info. It's really, truly disheartening that Ram, Dodge, or whoever would purposely go to production with parts or a design spec with a major known catastrophic flaw for the greedy intention of ensuring future maintenance revenue??! WTF, that is unsat! F' that & Ram for that matter if they are intentionally setting up the rear ends to grenade themselves so they can make $ fixing them. I PROMISE YOU if my blows up
Outside of warrant, I WILL NOT take it to the dealer to fix, I'll patronize a private speciality shop before letting dealers work on it. Wouldn't you think producing a no-kidding bullet proof drivetrain would generate more word of mouth business & return customers than purposely tanking the rear ends prematurely by underflilling the diff cover? Disgusting.

[TwinStick]

Yes, unfortunately it seems to be the business plan for America these days. Everything has a life expectancy, a design life. It has turned us into a throw away society.

In order to make the engine & trans last on my brand new 04' 2500 HD QC Hemi/auto, I had to install a 1 ton 24 row trans cooler & an engine oil cooler, for towing my 10,500 lb toy hauler. Trans constantly shifted/hunted between 2nd & 3rd. It had the 4.10's, tow pkg & HD cooling from the factory. Father-in-laws 04' 2500 HD Chevy had the same thing. 4.10's, tow pkg & HD cooling. His camper was 3000 lbs lighter than mine. We went to Tenn, pulled a long steep hill in Ky.. I mashed mine to the floor, just to keep it from hunting gears. I got to the top & was doing 80 mph, temp gauge only went up the width of the needle. I had to wait 25 min for him. His was over heating. He was PISSED as he was a GM employee. I told him, there is no such thing as too cool on a 90*+ day, pulling a load up a long steep hill. Hard to explain to the wife why you need to spend money on a brand new truck. The new HD does NOT meet my definition of HD anymore. Not by a long shot. Although the new PW has some good upgrades. The new AAM 11.5 will allow 5.13 gears, new dual alternator option is AWESOME, new engine is awesome. T-case...not-so-much.

[adeluca73]

1st problem I noticed in your response: "my father in-law had a GM HD 2500 for hauling.."

Towing anything with a GM...that will become a problem for anyone...

[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

1st problem I noticed in your response: "my father in-law had a GM HD 2500 for hauling.."

Towing anything with a GM...that will become a problem for anyone...

X2


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