New Carli 2.5 suspension

[Riskwriter101]

I had a local shop install a Carli 2.5" system with King shocks, upper and low control arms, full rear springs, hemi coils and Carli extreme ball joints. The truck seems much more manageable on and off road. The issue I have is the steering has some play and I seem to be correcting constantly at highway speeds. Two items that might be to blame. The shop installed the (D) driver and (P) passenger coil springs on the opposite sides. Also, they did a fast alignment, maybe it needs an actual alignment on one of those fancy machines? Anyone have experience with front end issues?

[RAM4ROKS]

I would switch the springs (IIRC driver's is longer to compensate for the weight of the fuel tank and the driver being the one constant person in the cab), the truck might sit a bit low on the driver's side if you don't.

Are you running the stock steering stabilizer?

Did you drive the truck with the stock tires, or did you upgrade tires immediately with lift? What pressure are you running in the tires? With larger tires, quite often less pressure is needed. (example- I run 45psi front with 37s vs 60psi front with stock tires)

Just a thought: An actual alignment would be a GOOD idea, wander could likely be a caster issue. Can only check that with a real alignment.

On a totally separate note, just out of curiosity- what rear springs did you go with? Standard, Heavy duty, or Long Travel? I went with standards and I had to change out my exhaust past the muffler because my stock tailpipe conflicted with my springs when flexed, also I had to cut away a portion of my gas tank skidplate because my rear driveshaft hit it when I flexed the truck out. (you may want to check for clearances before you wheel it too much)

I really like the blacked out rear bumper on your truck! (also, the color of your truck is nice but, I could be biased!) Need more pics!!!

[coder]

The new upper and low control arms are 1/2 longer the caster will be way off and can cause this type of issue.

[Riskwriter101]

I would switch the springs (IIRC driver's is longer to compensate for the weight of the fuel tank and the driver being the one constant person in the cab), the truck might sit a bit low on the driver's side if you don't.

Are you running the stock steering stabilizer?

Did you drive the truck with the stock tires, or did you upgrade tires immediately with lift? What pressure are you running in the tires? With larger tires, quite often less pressure is needed. (example- I run 45psi front with 37s vs 60psi front with stock tires)

Just a thought: An actual alignment would be a GOOD idea, wander could likely be a caster issue. Can only check that with a real alignment.

On a totally separate note, just out of curiosity- what rear springs did you go with? Standard, Heavy duty, or Long Travel? I went with standards and I had to change out my exhaust past the muffler because my stock tailpipe conflicted with my springs when flexed, also I had to cut away a portion of my gas tank skidplate because my rear driveshaft hit it when I flexed the truck out. (you may want to check for clearances before you wheel it too much)

I really like the blacked out rear bumper on your truck! (also, the color of your truck is nice but, I could be biased!) Need more pics!!!

That's what I thought about the coils. The shop said it doesn't matter but I clearly see the "D" on the passenger side coil. HMM also, they emailed me today and said that the Tie Rods need to be replaced now that they always go out in these trucks even with only 10,000 miles. I know that BFG Mudders were a poor choice of tire, but I've been told that these tires have too little side wall or something and that can cause issues with the suspension too. No steering stabilizer, should I get one? I have the heavy duty rear springs. They feel a little softer then stock, but with the rear Kings I really like the feel.
Thanks for the compliments. Post some pictures of your truck..

[Riskwriter101]

The new upper and low control arms are 1/2 longer the caster will be way off and can cause this type of issue.

The shop I used said that they did an alignment. Would you need all the expensive equipment for a 4x4? I think they used a tape measure.

[Will]

The toe alignment can cause this as well. If they set them too parallel, any slight difference in the road will cause them to react and you'll have to compensate. If they are toed "out" any indifference would make them want to turn, it's best to have them toed "in" for straight line stability.

[Mr.Smith]

You paid them & the kit came with crystal clear instructions, they owe you a chance at making it right...however fucking up something so simple would keep me from going back! If you need help, ask. Someone on here close to you would be more than willing to assist, I'll bet...just a few cold beers seems to suffice.

[RAM4ROKS]

The new upper and low control arms are 1/2 longer the caster will be way off and can cause this type of issue.

The shop I used said that they did an alignment. Would you need all the expensive equipment for a 4x4? I think they used a tape measure.

The expensive equipment is needed for caster (set with the cam bolts in the control arms), I suppose it is possible to do it without (by using an angle gauge on the tops of the inner Cs), but I have never seen anybody attempt doing it that way on a fully assembled vehicle (only on custom axle builds) so, it would be better to do it on an alignment machine! IIRC- too much negative caster gives wander and potentially shakes (think like the front wheels on a shopping cart) and too much positive caster makes it hard to steer (just wants to go straight), I'd recommend a real alignment!

[MSCH2112]

stock coil springs have different ratings for driver and passenger side. make them change it out to be safe and get a real alignment. you could call carli to verify. new tie rod ends at 10,000 miles? hmmmm....they should have told you this BEFORE they put the lift on so you could get it fixed under warranty. dealer may screw with you and say no.

mike

[azracer]

Go get all your old parts and tell them you want the springs corrected.

Once done never go back. EVER!

Pay to have the alignment done and have all their work checked at a reputable shop. They have screwed you on the TRE... big time. It also worries me that they may have not aligned the TRE and this misalignment is what will break them because they will bind and bend when turned. The latest recall is specifically to correct this problem.

[Will]

I have the same color and love your black bumpers and grill. You don't want to swap for some dinged up chrome ones do ya?

[Riskwriter101]

stock coil springs have different ratings for driver and passenger side. make them change it out to be safe and get a real alignment. you could call carli to verify. new tie rod ends at 10,000 miles? hmmmm....they should have told you this BEFORE they put the lift on so you could get it fixed under warranty. dealer may screw with you and say no.

mike

I agree, they should have told me that before I voided my entire suspension warranty. Anyways, they switched the coil springs and changed out the tie rod ends. It does feel much better (steering tighter) I'm wondering if the Carli high mount steering stabilizer will fit Power Wagons. That would take out any other "slop" Carli' website shows that part works up to 2013, but another retail website selling that stabilizer says it won't work on PowerWagons? If not maybe because of the swaybar disconnect? Is anyone running that Carli part?

Mike

[Riskwriter101]

I have the same color and love your black bumpers and grill. You don't want to swap for some dinged up chrome ones do ya?

Ya, hmmm. I'll get back to you on that one.. Hahahaha