Front suspension Poll/?'s

[ScottWagon1]

Ok. Given the prices of everything I'm back to Carli springs and a new track bar. This will also be less install time than all the other parts. Might order it tomorrow, pay day will be deciding factor.

[ScottWagon1]

Just ordered the Carli springs and track bar. Now to find time. Might be a couple weeks. Deer season starts Sunday.


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[ScottWagon1]

Just ordered the Carli springs and track bar. Now to find time. Might be a couple weeks. Deer season starts Sunday.


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[Mr.Smith]

Good Idea, you'll love this setup...although this "disease" is incurable, time consuming & expensive.

[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

Being that I can't afford a full suspension swap at the moment, to get what I want out of my truck I've decided to install the 2" leveling kit from Mopar. Trust me when I say, I've had all the same concerns as everyone else on this forum concerning spacers. I by no means feel this is the proper way to lift the front of my truck.

With that being said, I've done a lot of research on this subject and I was even fortunate enough to speak with one of the engineers in Mopar's Performance Division. He told me the 2013+ PW's come with a 1.4" lift in the front and a 1" lift in the rear from a standard 2500. He states a 2" leveling spacer has been thoroughly tested in the PW's and there have been no issues. The kit comes with the 2" spacers and longer bump stops. There are no other parts that need to be replaced as the suspension will only be raised 2" past factory.

While I fully intend to end up with a Carli kit, I feel this will do the trick while I wait to gain the funding necessary to get the kit ordered. In speaking with a Carli Suspension engineer he advised me that a Carli kit on my 2013 PW would raise the front by 1" (from factory) and lower the rear 1" (from factory). It levels the truck and you end up with a 2.5"-3" lift overall. He states you can fit 37's with no issues. With the 2" spacer kit, I'd still max out with 35's on stock rims.

... rant over

[RckyMtnRam]

Interesting. do you have a part # for the mopar/powerwagon leveling kit? Thanks.

[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

Interesting. do you have a part # for the mopar/powerwagon leveling kit? Thanks.

I'm at work right now, but I'll get it to you after I get home tonight. I'm installing it this weekend, so keep an eye on my build thread early next week for the install photos.

[RckyMtnRam]

Thanks. I am interested to see how it goes. I believe I found it right in the MOPAR parts catalog. Page 247. P5155394. It's half of basically a mopar 2 inch lift kit.. It says "ride quality is unaffected". All configurations applicable. I wonder if the rear kit p5155452, is compatible with our model though. That comes with brackets and ubolts "to prevent over compression". Though we already have what amounts to a block in the rear. Interesting also that it does not indicate even a shock change is needed. Good luck with the install this weekend.

[ScottWagon1]

All parts arrived. Installing tomorrow. Will I need an alingment? How do I know how far to adjust the track bar?

[azracer]

All parts arrived. Installing tomorrow. Will I need an alingment? How do I know how far to adjust the track bar?

Note: This advice is for Rams with the "T" or 08.5 and up style steering only...
Your Tow-in adjustment will not change at all but the caster may change slightly. I set my eccentric cam with my Thuren lower arms at twelve clock exactly and my alignment was dead on when I checked it. Caster is an adjustment that has more to do with stability at speed, straight line tracking and steering return to center after a turn. Caster is generally not associated with tire wear unless it gets to extreme angles.

Camber is not adjustable on our trucks so it should not be an issue unless parts are badly worn or you have a bent axle, steering knuckle.

That said the steering wheel will be off of center slightly if you lifted the truck and will need adjustment at some point to make it centered again. This is important to do eventually so as to return the pitman arm and gear box to their original straight line on center geometry. If you are handy you can do this yourself as this centers the wheel and no other steering specifications are changed in this process. Either way you can do an alignment when you get time or find a coupon and not feel rushed to go out and immediately get it done.

Track bar length on center is 39 and 1/8" but I prefer 39 and 1/16" and not need to clearance the coil bucket. This clearance can be achieved through normal wear or with a grinder but can be avoided with 1/16" and not a single person will notice your axle is not centered by being a 1/16" to the drivers side LOL. Geometry wise the 1/16" is miniscule.

Quick down and dirty of alignment angles can be found here.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... p?techid=4

[ScottWagon1]

All parts arrived. Installing tomorrow. Will I need an alingment? How do I know how far to adjust the track bar?

Note: This advice is for Rams with the "T" or 08.5 and up style steering only...
Your Tow-in adjustment will not change at all but the caster may change slightly. I set my eccentric cam with my Thuren lower arms at twelve clock exactly and my alignment was dead on when I checked it. Caster is an adjustment that has more to do with stability at speed, straight line tracking and steering return to center after a turn. Caster is generally not associated with tire wear unless it gets to extreme angles.

Camber is not adjustable on our trucks so it should not be an issue unless parts are badly worn or you have a bent axle, steering knuckle.

That said the steering wheel will be off of center slightly if you lifted the truck and will need adjustment at some point to make it centered again. This is important to do eventually so as to return the pitman arm and gear box to their original straight line on center geometry. If you are handy you can do this yourself as this centers the wheel and no other steering specifications are changed in this process. Either way you can do an alignment when you get time or find a coupon and not feel rushed to go out and immediately get it done.

Track bar length on center is 39 and 1/8" but I prefer 39 and 1/16" and not need to clearance the coil bucket. This clearance can be achieved through normal wear or with a grinder but can be avoided with 1/16" and not a single person will notice your axle is not centered by being a 1/16" to the drivers side LOL. Geometry wise the 1/16" is miniscule.

Quick down and dirty of alignment angles can be found here.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... p?techid=4

Thanks a bunch!

[myoung84]

You can center the steering wheel yourself by adjusting the sleeve on the drag link. The only thing you really need to go to an alignment shop for is the toe adjustment. What I do is pull into the driveway with the truck driving straight and then adjust the sleeve on the drag link until the steering wheel is straight. You're never going to get if perfect because of the design but you can get it close. There's a little safety bar that you temporarily remove for the adjustments so you have to make sure the sleeve gets back in the proper spot to reinstall. Also, make sure both rod ends are sitting flat and not turned to one side.

I've got my track bar at 39-1/4" and have slight interference with the coil bucket but I'm going to let it self clearance. My axle was just too far out of center for my liking at 39-1/8".

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[ScottWagon1]

Done! I'm spent. Did it all in a driveway no special tools. Hell I didn't even use the new bolts for the control arms to replace the one you supposedly have to cut out. I did use 2 motorcycle straps, 1 for the spring and 1 for the shock. Looks great and dead level. Ride quality seems to have improved as well.

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[ScottWagon1]

Oh ya and most importantly have have full left and right turn back with 1/2" to spare!


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[azracer]

Congrats!

[Degss]

Carl
Did you keep the stock shocks,how does it ride and could you post some better picks. Thanks

[ScottWagon1]

Carl
Did you keep the stock shocks,how does it ride and could you post some better picks. Thanks

Kept the stock shocks. It rides much better now though I haven't driven it but a couple block. I did notice it though. Will get better pics up tomorrow when there is a little better light. These Thuren arms are wicked cool!

[2011RPW]

Looks great!

[Degss]

Carl, what were your before measurements.

[ScottWagon1]

Ok think the track at is off. Hhhhmmmm.

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[verdesardog]

Bilstien 5100 shocks would make a nice difference!

[azracer]

I do not like PP as they tried to sell a SEMA demo PW truck to one of our members. That truck in reality was total POS with the best of the best they had to offer for a PW +6" kit on 37" MT tires.

The thing was unable to be driven at speed with all the issues in the steering geometry and was not even as good as a factory PW with no mods when off road. I think this says tons about their products and I will not waste my time with any of their products if this is their best attempt at a show performance demo truck. Just my opinion but it is worth mentioning. Pure performance my ass!

In those pictures it looks as though your sway bar seems to have moved quite a bit. I don't know why though.

[TwinStick]

I noticed that too. The end links- One side seems to be much more vertical than the other, or are they always that different ? IDK ?

[ScottWagon1]

The away bar did shift. I can tell by we're mud is and where it's clean? I'm at a loss here. Not sure what to think.


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[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

Interesting. do you have a part # for the mopar/powerwagon leveling kit? Thanks.

So, I ended up pushing back the suspension work to this coming weekend. I ended up rewiring my winch controller instead. I totally forgot to get the part number for you. It looks as if you may have found it, but I'll verify anyway. Keep an eye on my build thread. I should have the Winch Controller Port Relocation posted soon.