Spark plug replacement
Spark plug replacement
Looking to save some $$$ and replace plugs myself. Any tips, special tools and what plug do you recommend ?
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
Re: Spark plug replacement
It is a pretty straight forward job so you will have no trouble doing it yourself.salps wrote:Looking to save some $$$ and replace plugs myself. Any tips, special tools and what plug do you recommend ?
Thanks Scott
A couple tips:
Find a comfortable place to sit Indian style in your engine compartment and get comfy
Plan about 2.5 hours the first time
No need to replace wires unless there is a break
Go with the champion stock spark plugs as they work the best in the Hemi
You will need a sparkplug socket, two 3" extensions and a universal joint for the rear plugs
Change them two at a time
Coat the threads with a thin coat of anti-sieze and use diletric grease in the boots
When your done have a beer and enjoy the fact you didn't pay someone $200 plus to change them.
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2005 Dodge Power Wagon QC Black - "Laramie"
Performance Mods:
Performance Mods:
- Comp 260 Camshaft, Upgraded Valve Springs, Forged Push Rods, JBA Shorties, Airaid Cold Air Intake, Gibson Dual Cat Exhast (Side Swept), National Speed Custom Tune
- Kenwood KVT-719 w/ Garmin Navigation and Kenwood Rear Camera, JL Stealth Sub
- Carli Upper "Bomb Proof" Ball Joints, NAPA Lower Ball Joints, Thuren Adj Track Bar, Thuren Adjusted Fox Damper, T-Style Steering Upgrade, New Power Steering Pump, 2012 Power Steering Motor Upgrade, Thuren King 2.5 Custom Rear Shocks -Stage 1, Thuren Off-set Control Arms, Thuren King 2.5 Custom Front Shocks -Stage 2, 35x12.50x17 Nitto Trail Grappler (previous tires Cooper STT), Carli Front Dif Gard,
- KC LightBar Behind Tow Hooks Mount, 2 KC Slim Driving Lights, 2 KC Offroading Lights, Weatherguard Black Steel Truck Box, Winch TPS bypass, Warn Wireless Winch Module
Re: Spark plug replacement
Great info thanks. Any parts I need to remove to get to the plugs?
Scott
Scott
Re: Spark plug replacement
salps wrote:Great info thanks. Any parts I need to remove to get to the plugs?
Scott
EDIT....
- VA_Wagon Man
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Re: Spark plug replacement
Just remember there's 16 plugs. 8 of them are under the coil packs, that's all you have to remove.
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'05 Silver Power Wagon: # 869: Custom Rear Hitch & Bed Clearance Mod, Custom Front and Rear Tubular Bumpers, Airflow 3rd Gen Snorkel, Diablo Sport Predator, 35x12.50 Nitto Mud Grappler Extreme Terrain, Flow Master 40, Mopar Rock Rails, Warn 15,000lb Winch,with Thermal Bypass, 4.56 Locking front and rear Diffs, Sway-bar disconnect, Uprgraded " T " steering linkage, Fully Skid plated with fore and aft bars, Carli Front Diff Protector, RockCrusher Rear Diff Pro, Bilstein 5100's with rear Custom Valving, Pit Slave Winch Strap, CajunPW PNP Locker By-Pass,
Follow Me, I'll Pull You Out...AFTER you pull me out......
Rausch Creek 2010 Fall Run
Rausch Creek 2011 Spring Run
Rausch Creek 2011 Fall Run
Rausch Creek 2012 Spring Run
Future Rausch Creek 2013 Spring Run June 22nd!
"There is no hunting, like the hunting of man, and those who have hunted armed men long enough, and liked it, never cared for anything else thereafter." --Earnest Hemmingway--
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Re: Spark plug replacement
What is the proper gap spec?
2005 Black Pow Wagon mods: DT Profab Steering Brace, Gibson superflow catback single exhaust system, Locker Bypass, Moog ball joints (see how long they last), New OEM track bar bushings, T-steering upgrade w/ Bilstein 5100 steering damper, Power everything, Heated leather seats, (keeps the better half happy), Rear window defrost, Bilstein 5100 shocks, 35x12.5x17 Toyo AT2 Extremes, Customized H2 alloy wheels, Original rock rails with family friendly steps welded on, Tri fold tonneau, Hi-lift extreme jack, Tool box along with all the essential PW gear. New winch cable, Winch TPS bypass, Cardan joint grease zerk discovery. New front grille assembly. Magnesium Chloride under coating.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.
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- Throttle 8
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Re: Spark plug replacement
45 thou
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Re: Spark plug replacement
Thanks. I thought so. Just didn't have my manual handy to check.Throttle 8 wrote:45 thou

2005 Black Pow Wagon mods: DT Profab Steering Brace, Gibson superflow catback single exhaust system, Locker Bypass, Moog ball joints (see how long they last), New OEM track bar bushings, T-steering upgrade w/ Bilstein 5100 steering damper, Power everything, Heated leather seats, (keeps the better half happy), Rear window defrost, Bilstein 5100 shocks, 35x12.5x17 Toyo AT2 Extremes, Customized H2 alloy wheels, Original rock rails with family friendly steps welded on, Tri fold tonneau, Hi-lift extreme jack, Tool box along with all the essential PW gear. New winch cable, Winch TPS bypass, Cardan joint grease zerk discovery. New front grille assembly. Magnesium Chloride under coating.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.

Re: Spark plug replacement
Is it true you have to replace these every 30k?....................
2012 RAM Power Wagon
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and I --
I took the one less travelled by,
and that has made all the difference
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and I --
I took the one less travelled by,
and that has made all the difference
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Re: Spark plug replacement
It is "recommended" that you change them. I had the factory plugs in untill the 55k miles, about the same time it started to feel rough at idle. The gap was about 65~70 thousands. I could've been a cheap shit and filed them down and reset the gap, but I replaced them instead.Juday wrote:Is it true you have to replace these every 30k?....................

Nothing's more dead than a horse in a glue bottle.
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
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I guess you could say I'm a bit off center.....

There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
John Adams - 1826
I guess you could say I'm a bit off center.....

Re: Spark plug replacement
They are cheap enough you should. I do mine every 30-40K. Last time I changed mine @ 35K they were only off a little in gap. Changing my wife's on her 300C @45K they were off quite a bit more. So 30-40K works for me.Juday wrote:Is it true you have to replace these every 30k?....................
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2005 Dodge Power Wagon QC Black - "Laramie"
Performance Mods:
Performance Mods:
- Comp 260 Camshaft, Upgraded Valve Springs, Forged Push Rods, JBA Shorties, Airaid Cold Air Intake, Gibson Dual Cat Exhast (Side Swept), National Speed Custom Tune
- Kenwood KVT-719 w/ Garmin Navigation and Kenwood Rear Camera, JL Stealth Sub
- Carli Upper "Bomb Proof" Ball Joints, NAPA Lower Ball Joints, Thuren Adj Track Bar, Thuren Adjusted Fox Damper, T-Style Steering Upgrade, New Power Steering Pump, 2012 Power Steering Motor Upgrade, Thuren King 2.5 Custom Rear Shocks -Stage 1, Thuren Off-set Control Arms, Thuren King 2.5 Custom Front Shocks -Stage 2, 35x12.50x17 Nitto Trail Grappler (previous tires Cooper STT), Carli Front Dif Gard,
- KC LightBar Behind Tow Hooks Mount, 2 KC Slim Driving Lights, 2 KC Offroading Lights, Weatherguard Black Steel Truck Box, Winch TPS bypass, Warn Wireless Winch Module
- Throttle 8
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Re: Spark plug replacement
I changed mine out at 45,000km (27,000 miles). The plugs looked good, but the gap had increased to 50/thousandths. Plugs are cheap, and easy to do (although time consuming.) Better safe than sorry is my motto. Also, I always tell my wife---"A clean car drives better!" just to piss her off! When she would ask how, I would tell her that if the owner took the time to clean a car well, he probably looked after routine maintenance as well; whereas if a guy didn't bother to clean anything, he probably doesn't bother with maintenance either.
2007PW, black, quad cab, G56 6spd, heated leather, sunroof, dual zone climate, Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ (315/70/17), Locker Bypass, TPS Bypass, Lund tonneau, Maple Offroad sliders, wheel wheel liners, K&N filter, bedliner, PIAA headlights, PIAA foglights, 24" LED lightbar behind grill, Carli Diff guard, Dodge Off Road steering brace, Carli High Clearance Control Arms, Carli Trac Bar, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Carli ball joints, updated "T" style linkage, Odyssy battery, recovery gear, Studded Goodyear Duratrack 315/70/17 for winter
MY OTHER VEHICLE IS A LOCOMOTIVE
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Re: Spark plug replacement
Use stock plugs.
Changed mine at 40,000+ miles and they still looked "good" (.050).
There is a vent or something that needs to come off first...just a few bolts hold it on.
I used a socket with rubber insert and has built on universal type swivel on top.Craftsman part.
Air ratchet would make things faster...lots of turning to get them in and out.
It is NOT as difficult as it looks...even the "back" plugs.
Changed mine at 40,000+ miles and they still looked "good" (.050).
There is a vent or something that needs to come off first...just a few bolts hold it on.
I used a socket with rubber insert and has built on universal type swivel on top.Craftsman part.
Air ratchet would make things faster...lots of turning to get them in and out.
It is NOT as difficult as it looks...even the "back" plugs.
Re: Spark plug replacement
there are a few things u can do to keep from having headaches while doing this job, always use a plug socket with a swivel or ujoint on the socket or built in.

they will keep you from getting misaligned and from breaking the top off your plug.
also for putting your plugs in, get yourself about 6" of 5/16" rubber fuel line and take 1" of one end and cut off the outer layer of rubber (the layer on the out side of the brading) and remove the brading you can see. now you have a plug in stall tool that will keep you from cross threading a plug. you put the stripped end of the fuel line over you plug and you can thread it in by hand, and if you happen to cross thread the plug it will just turn in the hose doing no damage to your head or new plug. NEVER USE A POWER TOOL TO START A PLUG you will eventually cross thread one, then your into more work than you wanted. you should be able to run the plug all the way in with the fuel hose tool and for the best results use a torque wrench to tighten plugs evenly, 7-15 ft-lbs (higher compression engines can be fussy).

they will keep you from getting misaligned and from breaking the top off your plug.
also for putting your plugs in, get yourself about 6" of 5/16" rubber fuel line and take 1" of one end and cut off the outer layer of rubber (the layer on the out side of the brading) and remove the brading you can see. now you have a plug in stall tool that will keep you from cross threading a plug. you put the stripped end of the fuel line over you plug and you can thread it in by hand, and if you happen to cross thread the plug it will just turn in the hose doing no damage to your head or new plug. NEVER USE A POWER TOOL TO START A PLUG you will eventually cross thread one, then your into more work than you wanted. you should be able to run the plug all the way in with the fuel hose tool and for the best results use a torque wrench to tighten plugs evenly, 7-15 ft-lbs (higher compression engines can be fussy).
Last edited by Pit Slave on Tue Jun 26, 2012 2:02 am, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: fixed image
Reason: fixed image
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Pure Performance control arms
Flexalite e-fan
Rock-rails (by me)
Diablo sport tuner
Bushwacker pocket style flares
Rock Monster beadlocks
BFG KM2's
Airflow snorkel
Bed rug
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Re: Spark plug replacement
Everybody still recommend NGK's LZFR5C-11 for a stock 2005 Power wagon? Gap? Etc....
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
Re: Spark plug replacement
Can't find LZFR5C-11 anywhere? Is LZTR4A-11 the replacement?
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
- coder
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Re: Spark plug replacement
Stock champion plugs are the best IMO...salps wrote:Can't find LZFR5C-11 anywhere? Is LZTR4A-11 the replacement?
Thanks Scott
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
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Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
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Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
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- Calvinm119
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Re: Spark plug replacement
Changed out the plugs today. Pretty easy, just time consuming. When I looked at each of them and the gap for all were .059 to .060. I also checked and saw no evidence of pre-detonation or oil. They were pretty rusty though. I don't think the previous owner ever did a tune up.
oh well, I'm glad I got them out. Cheers! 


2017 Ram Power Wagon Tradesman:
Mods so far: K&N CAI, Weathertech floor mats, resonator delete, RBP Powder Coated Tip, Dodge Off Road Steering Box Brace
Gone but never forgotten:
2015 Ram 2500 Blue Streak Pearl: Tradesman w/ 6.4L Hemi, Rambox, electronic transfer case, 3.73s, LSD, BLD, Chrome appearance package, tailgate extender.
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2006 Dodge Ram Power Wagon
Mods so far: K&N CAI, Weathertech floor mats, resonator delete, RBP Powder Coated Tip, Dodge Off Road Steering Box Brace
Gone but never forgotten:
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- GunniPWguy
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Re: Spark plug replacement
I tell my wife a clean truck improves aerodynamics (less drag) for better gas mileageThrottle 8 wrote:I changed mine out at 45,000km (27,000 miles). The plugs looked good, but the gap had increased to 50/thousandths. Plugs are cheap, and easy to do (although time consuming.) Better safe than sorry is my motto. Also, I always tell my wife---"A clean car drives better!" just to piss her off! When she would ask how, I would tell her that if the owner took the time to clean a car well, he probably looked after routine maintenance as well; whereas if a guy didn't bother to clean anything, he probably doesn't bother with maintenance either.



2005 Black Pow Wagon mods: DT Profab Steering Brace, Gibson superflow catback single exhaust system, Locker Bypass, Moog ball joints (see how long they last), New OEM track bar bushings, T-steering upgrade w/ Bilstein 5100 steering damper, Power everything, Heated leather seats, (keeps the better half happy), Rear window defrost, Bilstein 5100 shocks, 35x12.5x17 Toyo AT2 Extremes, Customized H2 alloy wheels, Original rock rails with family friendly steps welded on, Tri fold tonneau, Hi-lift extreme jack, Tool box along with all the essential PW gear. New winch cable, Winch TPS bypass, Cardan joint grease zerk discovery. New front grille assembly. Magnesium Chloride under coating.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.

- GunniPWguy
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Re: Spark plug replacement
Spent the better 1/2 of Saturday changing the spark plugs. Got myself into positions on that engine that I didn't know I could do! The back ones were the hardest. Thanks to you guys for the pointers and tips on what tools to use otherwise it would've made a pretty difficult task damn near impossible without the right combination of sockets and ratchet attachments. The tubing on the end of the plug to thread the new ones in trick from Rusty was the best.
Glad I did it. the old plugs were all at around 0.65 gap. They were due for a change. Not too bad considering they were probably the original plugs!

Glad I did it. the old plugs were all at around 0.65 gap. They were due for a change. Not too bad considering they were probably the original plugs!
2005 Black Pow Wagon mods: DT Profab Steering Brace, Gibson superflow catback single exhaust system, Locker Bypass, Moog ball joints (see how long they last), New OEM track bar bushings, T-steering upgrade w/ Bilstein 5100 steering damper, Power everything, Heated leather seats, (keeps the better half happy), Rear window defrost, Bilstein 5100 shocks, 35x12.5x17 Toyo AT2 Extremes, Customized H2 alloy wheels, Original rock rails with family friendly steps welded on, Tri fold tonneau, Hi-lift extreme jack, Tool box along with all the essential PW gear. New winch cable, Winch TPS bypass, Cardan joint grease zerk discovery. New front grille assembly. Magnesium Chloride under coating.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.

Re: Spark plug replacement
Yep...those sure look origional. What's the mileage on them?
Did you put stockers back in?
Did you put stockers back in?
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Re: Spark plug replacement
So a couple of things. 16 plugs? I had no idea. I just went and looked and holy crap 16 plugs!. Is that a hemi thing?
Second...I though it was a little strange that it could take a half a day but ....ya I can see why, that break master cylinder is just blocking everything.
I will keep this in mind when it comes time for the change. thanks
Second...I though it was a little strange that it could take a half a day but ....ya I can see why, that break master cylinder is just blocking everything.
I will keep this in mind when it comes time for the change. thanks
Ben
Us Army EOD
Us Army EOD
Re: Spark plug replacement
I found it to be MUCH easier than I expected. It took maybe 3 hours from time I opened hood until I closed it. Here's how.
Start with cold engine. (Mine sat overnight.)
I did have friend helping. (Two senior citizens.)
Use socket shown above. (Mine was Craftsman.)
Broke plugs loose with hand ratchet . (Removed with air ratchet.)
Start new plug in by hand with same socket , screw in with air ratchet, final torque by hand.
Rear plugs were somewhat more difficult but not as bad as it looked.
Note: If you have been lifting weights it will not be as easy. Skinny arms = easy day on this job.
Start with cold engine. (Mine sat overnight.)
I did have friend helping. (Two senior citizens.)
Use socket shown above. (Mine was Craftsman.)
Broke plugs loose with hand ratchet . (Removed with air ratchet.)
Start new plug in by hand with same socket , screw in with air ratchet, final torque by hand.
Rear plugs were somewhat more difficult but not as bad as it looked.
Note: If you have been lifting weights it will not be as easy. Skinny arms = easy day on this job.
- GunniPWguy
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Re: Spark plug replacement
113k on em if they are the originals. I am pretty sure they are. PO had all the reciepts from his maintenance records and plugs weren't part of em. OEM Champions went back in. The toughest part for me was getting into a comfortable position to get the strong arm on the rachet to break the old ones free. After that it was just time consuming checking gap and applying anti seize/dielectric grease, etc. to 16 of those bad boys. Oh and there was a bit offlattire wrote:Yep...those sure look origional. What's the mileage on them?
Did you put stockers back in?


2005 Black Pow Wagon mods: DT Profab Steering Brace, Gibson superflow catback single exhaust system, Locker Bypass, Moog ball joints (see how long they last), New OEM track bar bushings, T-steering upgrade w/ Bilstein 5100 steering damper, Power everything, Heated leather seats, (keeps the better half happy), Rear window defrost, Bilstein 5100 shocks, 35x12.5x17 Toyo AT2 Extremes, Customized H2 alloy wheels, Original rock rails with family friendly steps welded on, Tri fold tonneau, Hi-lift extreme jack, Tool box along with all the essential PW gear. New winch cable, Winch TPS bypass, Cardan joint grease zerk discovery. New front grille assembly. Magnesium Chloride under coating.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.
If you ever happen to see me running somewhere, you should start running too.

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Re: Spark plug replacement
Hey Gents,
Apologies for bringing this thread back from the dead. I am about to tackle some maintenance on my truck (2008 PW w/ almost at 100k miles) and I was doing a double check on spark plug gap. My manual says 0.040" but it looks like the general consensus is 0.045" - five thousandths isn't much, but I figured I'd check into the wisdom behind it, especially with a copper plug (I'm replacing with Champion copper plugs).
Is there a story to logic behind the larger gap?
Apologies for bringing this thread back from the dead. I am about to tackle some maintenance on my truck (2008 PW w/ almost at 100k miles) and I was doing a double check on spark plug gap. My manual says 0.040" but it looks like the general consensus is 0.045" - five thousandths isn't much, but I figured I'd check into the wisdom behind it, especially with a copper plug (I'm replacing with Champion copper plugs).
Is there a story to logic behind the larger gap?
2008 PW - stock with the exception of CAI, Superchips tune, LED tail lights, bed liner, tonneau cover, bed rug, swing case, and a black magic e-fan with override switch (for now). Now accepting donations for lift and tires!