Picked up the bumper from the powder coater (first time)

Disassembled the front end and removed all unnecessary parts

Here's what she looks like installed!




Yeah, not only do I have to tip it upright, but I also have to spin it to allow the cable to feed from the bottom. I'll also need to rotate the drum that contains the free spool lever, so it will face up when I mount the winch upright. On top of that I'll more than likely need to re-run the wires from the winch controller box since it'll be mounted so differently from factory. It's going to be a lot of work, but I think it will work perfectly once I get it all done. Thanks for the insight!verdesardog wrote:When you do relocate your winch to the bumper make sure it spools off the winch in the same direction or the brake will not work properly....in other words you will have to turn it around so when spooling off the bottom of the drum it is still going in the same direction as when spooling off the top in the PW mode.
You're most welcome. I feel bound to share as others have shared since I've been helped in so many ways by seeing how others complete their projects. I'm a huge fan of forums because it allows everyone to learn from others successes and failures. If you're anything like me, I can't afford ($$$) a lot of mistakes when it comes to projects, so it's nice to see what worked for others. Stay tuned. There's more to come!RAM4ROKS wrote:Bumper looks great!!! I also want to thank you for all the pics of how you routed wiring through the firewall, I have been racking my brain for a while as to how I want to do mine and you solved that for me!!! Great write up, thanks!!!!
Yeah, I measured 11.5" from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender flare in the rear and 9.5" in the front, before the leveling kit install. Afterwards they both measured 11.5". That's with or without the front bumper. With all the stuff I removed from the front to install the new bumper it ended up being about the same amount of weight in the front. The upside being that I now have a 1/4" thick steel bumper with more and brighter driving lights. It also improved my approach angle for steeper climbs and clearance.RckyMtnRam wrote:Thanks for the update and pictures. Looks great. Did it end up sitting dead level front to back before the front bumper install? That bumper looks stout).. Thank you very much again for sharing your build!
Thank you sir. Your assistance is much appreciated.jeep_boy02 wrote:I'll see what I can measure out for you tomorrow.
Yeah, that whole piece is one big decal. I get wholesale dealer prices because I was in the auto industry, so I get some better prices, but it's still going to cost me about $375. Retail is $499. I picked up the "Power Wagon" hood decals and "4x4 Off-Road" bed decals for around $85. I'm getting quotes to bed-liner my rocker section to match the look of an SLT, but more so looking for the added protection it provides.Stickman wrote:That flat black part on the hood is a decal? I'm pretty sure it's paint with a red sticker to blend the gloss into it. Or is the red sticker what you're talking about? I'm a little lost.
SheepdogOutdoorsman wrote:Yeah, that whole piece is one big decal. I get wholesale dealer prices because I was in the auto industry, so I get some better prices, but it's still going to cost me about $375. Retail is $499. I picked up the "Power Wagon" hood decals and "4x4 Off-Road" bed decals for around $85. I'm getting quotes to bed-liner my rocker section to match the look of an SLT, but more so looking for the added protection it provides.Stickman wrote:That flat black part on the hood is a decal? I'm pretty sure it's paint with a red sticker to blend the gloss into it. Or is the red sticker what you're talking about? I'm a little lost.
Mopar Part Number: P5155394joshet89 wrote:SheepdogOutdoorsman wrote:Yeah, that whole piece is one big decal. I get wholesale dealer prices because I was in the auto industry, so I get some better prices, but it's still going to cost me about $375. Retail is $499. I picked up the "Power Wagon" hood decals and "4x4 Off-Road" bed decals for around $85. I'm getting quotes to bed-liner my rocker section to match the look of an SLT, but more so looking for the added protection it provides.Stickman wrote:That flat black part on the hood is a decal? I'm pretty sure it's paint with a red sticker to blend the gloss into it. Or is the red sticker what you're talking about? I'm a little lost.
You happen to have a part number for the mopar leveling kit? I work at a Dodge dealership and get good pricing but the parts manager is always nicer when you come in with a part number. If you don't have any answers on the measurements, I will get them for you here in the next day or so as well
Thank you for the kind words. I try to be as thorough as possible because I appreciate the same.adeluca73 wrote:What a fantastic build thread....it's thorough and complete. I'm impressed. The flat black hood is a vinyl decal. The flat black pieces between the front/rear door windows is also vinyl decals. I'm thinking about removing the door decals so the entire door is red, but it looks like a little bit of a PIA based on how it wraps into the door frame.
A few questions: I'm getting ready to start the dreaded off-road light endeavor and have been trying to figure out the best way to route the wires inside the cab to add some separate switches. I opted for the premium 9-spkr 8.4AN stereo system instead of the factory up-fitter switches (figured I listen to the radio more than I'll be using the off-road lights), maybe a dumb move since add the off-road lights would be WAY easier if there's already a ready wire bundle for accessories factory mounted under the hood, but it's too late for that (the up-fitter electronic module option was an either/or proposition with the premium sound system, and I have no idea why or what one has to do with the other, but you couldn't order both of those options together.
1) So, when wiring up the lights (say I have to larger PIAAs), is it best to wire together the lights together hot1(light farther from battery) to hot2 (light closer to the battery), ground 1 to ground 2, then wire ground 2 to the frame somewhere close, and hot 2 to the battery, and some sort of relay inline with hot 2 that goes to a lighted cabin switch, so when it's "on", it closes the relay, opening flow to the lights?
2) So what was the final solution (what configuration, what manufacturer, what parts specifically) did you implement for the front rake leveling problem? This is my next mod, and I want to get it right the first time with no wasted parts and no loss of performance, and looks like you've cracked the code on this.
Thanks and keep up the awesome posts-- as an engineer, tip of the hat to you sir.
This is great! Thank you for your time and efforts. This gives me a great point of reference. They don't have to be perfectly placed like factory ... Just close to it. Thanks again! That looked like a pain!jeep_boy02 wrote:OK... lets try this again... these are not super precise but should be able to get you some info at least and ready for placement.
On the PW hood decal 2" from rear hood seam and was level with the finish of the "roll" from top to side of hood.
front was lower at an angle and 1-1/2" down from top side of hood and 9" to the front hood lip.
The "4x4" bed sides were a little tricky. Both sides of my bed have been tweaked but both had a similar tilt.
One did measure out a whole inch lower than the other but I don't notice it by eye at all???
(front and rear "4" measurements refer to top of the "4x4" respecting front/rear of vehicle on each respective side)
Passenger side = 5" from tail light seam, 7-3/8" front "4" and 7-1/2" rear "4"
Driver side = 3-3/4" from tail light seam, 8-1/4" front "4" and 8-3/8" rear "4"
odd thing that I noticed id they have a rearward tilt of 1/8" to them. I didn't think to measure "absolute center" till just now but I could if this is as clear as mud to you.