"Frankenwagon" short and sweet.

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:55 am

Lol ok ok

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Wed Sep 30, 2015 2:23 pm

nts007 wrote:You're leaves!!! Right here <--------- when you swap em again

that's the only thing I will be bringing back across the boarder I suspect. I hopefully will leave king shocks down there and see if Aaron or don will ship them for me to potential buyer save them the hassle of international shipping and me explaining multiple sets of shocks in truck when coming back lol

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 2:53 pm

and so it begins fab tools are getting aquired. New plasma is coming next week.

Sent from Canada

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 2:54 pm

Update trucks cross member is bent alittle from a shock bottoming out 100% shock mount held up very very well however

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2011RPW · Post by **2011RPW** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:40 pm

are both of your mounts out back reinforced?

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:47 pm

Just the drivers side Matt! Passenger side is fairly robust.

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Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 10:23 pm

Aw shit breaking out the mig and plasma, shits about to go down!

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Wed Oct 07, 2015 11:25 am

Lol yesssss! Hopefully get the coil buckets re enforced this year and a new hd cross member with a new drivers mount made out of 3"x3" .250 wall. And 1/4" plate for the mount. Side view kinda like this?

it kicks the mount alittle further from the cross member for better shock clearance this in turn adds more twist to the cross member so I decided to go for a full perimeter shock mount made out of two plates then box it in and triangulate the cross member after wards too.

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azracer · Post by **azracer** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 12:08 am

I would cycle things without the leafs because it has always looked to me like your shock body was too long. Using a shock shaft snubber Has proven to be a bad choice on anything other than full race cage like seen in Score Baja racing mounts. On my ranger I cut them off and cycled the suspension and found less than 1/4" of shaft exposed at full compression. That would be fine unless you have shock shaft snubbers. So please #1 cycle that thing and #2 fabricate that mount to provide as much shock height as possible.

Carli shock mount kits give you about 1/2" higher mount on both the left and right side. I wonder why?????????? Don has had no issues with the shock mounts other than with his stage 6 and above. I wonder why???????? Ask Don and then look into the Carli shock brace kit.

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 12:40 am

I won't do the shock brace kit. Staying away from Carli stuff if I can. Not happy with the company. I will keep shock at the same position it is now as that's how the new shocks are designed to fit/ cycle. Carli shock mounts twist the factory cross member because the space the shock 1/2" further away from cross member adding more leverage to it which on a friends truck as an example twisted the cross member... My bumps should have been spaced down 3" front and rear to be very safe/ accurate. As Carlis 18" shocks are meant for 3" drops of factory bumps. The front was spaced 2.75" and the rear 2.5" and the rear is using 100% shock shaft still . I am waiting on new shocks from don so I'll be leaving them for now till new shocks are on then some axle bump testing can happen but I'll leave that up to the installer lol.

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azracer · Post by **azracer** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 12:48 am

2wagons1driveway wrote:I won't do the shock brace kit. Staying away from Carli stuff if I can. Not happy with the company. I will keep shock at the same position it is now as that's how the new shocks are designed to fit/ cycle. Carli shock mounts twist the factory cross member because the space the shock 1/2" further away from cross member adding more leverage to it which on a friends truck as an example twisted the cross member... My bumps should have been spaced down 3" front and rear to be very safe/ accurate. As Carlis 18" shocks are meant for 3" drops of factory bumps. The front was spaced 2.75" and the rear 2.5" and the rear is using 100% shock shaft still . I am waiting on new shocks from don so I'll be leaving them for now till new shocks are on then some axle bump testing can happen but I'll leave that up to the installer lol. Sent from Canada

Sounds like a good plan.... but please cycle it w/o leafs anyway once done. Makes perfect sense 3" no drop for bumps. 6" lift drops for bumps 3" that makes perfect sense.

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 1:02 am

azracer wrote:
2wagons1driveway wrote:I won't do the shock brace kit. Staying away from Carli stuff if I can. Not happy with the company. I will keep shock at the same position it is now as that's how the new shocks are designed to fit/ cycle. Carli shock mounts twist the factory cross member because the space the shock 1/2" further away from cross member adding more leverage to it which on a friends truck as an example twisted the cross member... My bumps should have been spaced down 3" front and rear to be very safe/ accurate. As Carlis 18" shocks are meant for 3" drops of factory bumps. The front was spaced 2.75" and the rear 2.5" and the rear is using 100% shock shaft still . I am waiting on new shocks from don so I'll be leaving them for now till new shocks are on then some axle bump testing can happen but I'll leave that up to the installer lol. Sent from Canada
Sounds like a good plan.... but please cycle it w/o leafs anyway once done. Makes perfect sense 3" no drop for bumps. 6" lift drops for bumps 3" that makes perfect sense.

ya I always had 1/2" of shock shaft untouched when my bumps were dropped 3" but going to boogies their meant for 2" drop on Thuren fab lifts cause his towers are inch higher. And his rear shocks are set up differently also. I THINK my new short bodies will only need 2" drops in rear also. Getting spacers from states takes awhile and I don't want to hastle the guys at boogie rated until
I have my new set up!

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Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 1:18 am

I understand you not wanting to do business with carli anymore lee, that whole situation was fucked. Besides the rear carli mounts are specific to the bypass shocks and springs built for their unchained kit and wouldn't be appropriate for your application.

AZ they are repositioned to allow 13" of travel on a 3" lift spring but mostly to avoid contact between the large bypass bodies and the frame/crossmember, it's less about strength and more about packaging. The crossmember should not bend if bumpstops are correct.

Lee your shock mount idea looks killer, very stout and with 3x3 you should be golden. I agree you should cycle the rear but in my opinion it also needs to be done with springs as well. I talked to deaver about it and they suggested using the main leaf and spacers to mimic the thickness of the full pack. With only the main leaf you can compress the rear suspension easily enough and can also set your bumpstops appropriately to avoid negative arching your springs.

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:07 am

Colibri wrote:I understand you not wanting to do business with carli anymore lee, that whole situation was fucked. Besides the rear carli mounts are specific to the bypass shocks and springs built for their unchained kit and wouldn't be appropriate for your application.

AZ they are repositioned to allow 13" of travel on a 3" lift spring but mostly to avoid contact between the large bypass bodies and the frame/crossmember, it's less about strength and more about packaging. The crossmember should not bend if bumpstops are correct.

Lee your shock mount idea looks killer, very stout and with 3x3 you should be golden. I agree you should cycle the rear but in my opinion it also needs to be done with springs as well. I talked to deaver about it and they suggested using the main leaf and spacers to mimic the thickness of the full pack. With only the main leaf you can compress the rear suspension easily enough and can also set your bumpstops appropriately to avoid negative arching your springs.

that's a great idea. And ya I was just thinking about borrowing a tractor for the day lol and have the trucks hitch compressed like Chris Willet did with his during building of his canti with those 4.0 shocks. Id imagine bump stop set up will be easy to do like I said I have just been lagging on spacing them proper as I kno new shocks are on the way. I am surprised how many bottom outs the factory cross member/ mount took!!! Makes me wonder how Carli suspension was taking out the drivers side mount frequently? I do think the bend was part of the spare tire mount also however.

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Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 3:26 pm

I'm really curious to see how you reinforce the coil buckets as well, were you thinking of tieing them together with an over engine brace?

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:08 pm

Colibri wrote:I'm really curious to see how you reinforce the coil buckets as well, were you thinking of tieing them together with an over engine brace?

I was thinking just some triangular braces around them arches onto them? Just to add some where for the tower pressures and the spring pressures on full compression. I'm guessing most of the pressure will go to the boogies. Well it should when everything is set up properly so realistically I just want to add beef to the frame wherever I can. I've been looking at Sean's truck and the ideas he has on it are pretty cool

. An engine over structure would be pretty cool though... Well see. Have to get these effin shocks in first whenever their done...

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Kenadian · Post by **Kenadian** » Sun Oct 11, 2015 4:32 pm

Unlike to try and keep up with him. But that doesn't always work

I like to break things !!!

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Sun Oct 11, 2015 4:46 pm

everytime I see that picture I piss a bit involuntarily

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:40 pm

New stuff! Plasma and a good grinder 5" makita.

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Sun Nov 15, 2015 1:43 am

Going with an 11.5" rear end soon and arb air locker... And 5.13 nitro gears

Just ordered a HAD front prop shaft aswell....

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Mon Nov 16, 2015 6:54 pm

Parts ordered.

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Will · Post by **Will** » Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:04 pm

You need a shipping address? Haha

2011RPW · Post by **2011RPW** » Mon Nov 16, 2015 10:50 pm

Living vicariously through your builds, lol

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:26 pm

Lol! It's gunna be an interesting experiment really hoping the gears help my power out. Just as a reference with my six speed at 75 mph I'm turning at 2000 rpm even right now. So I figure I should be good with 5.13's in there even on the highway.

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:26 pm

Just have to figure out rear truss to put on

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