2010 Improvements

[Will]

Good, long talk with Don... Kings are on order with Boogie Rated bump stops. but

[azracer]

Just remember the Boogie bumps can allow for you to use a bit softer valving for a more compliant ride and still soak up heavy chop I have stage 3 and the older DYSCO bumps in the front. I would not go any more than stage 4 with boogie bumps and 3 is about the least I would go. I rode in a stage 6 2006 diesel and it was so harsh on the little stuff it felt like the suspension didn't move at all on the dirt roads. In the rough however it rode very good for what we were hitting at speed. He had hydro bumps front and rear and a 3" lift.

Just remember they will be stiff (stiction) with the 250psi of nitrogen and brand new seals. Should loosen up in a few months of relatively heavy use. I run 125psi front and 100psi rear for normal use and when I go play hard they both get 200psi The stage 4 is a bit stiff for the rear though. I have stage 4 in the rear and with the bypass closed it is quite stiff at 200psi. Even so at stage 4 I can blow through them quite easily. Boogie bumps help with that though. Look at my build thread and compare what I show for my pace to yours and you should get an idea of how yours compares and an idea of the valving you might want. Like I state in the thread 12 minutes into that video is our normal pace. The second video shows what we do except for the really hard hits and the really high speeds in the wash. For me 50 to 60 without a cage is a bit fast for my comfort and I bet they hit 80 a couple times in that run through the wash at the end of the video.

IMHO If I could only afford 2.5" shocks an no boogie bumps I would really consider dropping to a 2.0 Fox and get the boogie bumps. The boogie bumps really do make all the difference in total ride and bottoming out control. I think they are indispensable. Talk to Don and take his recommendations seriously.


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[Will]

10-4, that's exactly where he pointed me, Stage 3 with the boogie bumps so it will ride better overall but have the capability of a 4 or 5 with the added bumps.

[azracer]

Find a talented welder and full circle weld the tubes to the pumpkin as a stop gap measure for when you order and have installed Dons new low profile truss kit. You need to do this welding of the tubes ASAP! Both front and rear axles! My preference is TIG welding.

[Will]

Do you need to remove the axles and bearings to do this or just drain the oil pay attention to where the ground is located?

Thanks

[Colibri]

Congratulations on the shocks! You won't be disappointed. When it comes to welding the tubes to the center sections, the rear is relatively easier, the front has seals inside right where you're welding and if you put too much heat into the axle you'll need to replace them which requires pulling the carrier. The most correct way to weld to cast requires you to pre and post heat the weld effected area and wrap it in a welding blanket to cool slowly. It should also be impeccably clean (which is difficult on porous cast) and done with rod that has high nickel content. Either tig or stick are preferable. You could just mig it on there and cross your fingers but cast becomes brittle in the weld zone done that way and if you take a hard hit the weld bead will simply snap off from the cast. My first trussed axle was with the Carli truss and was mig'd by a professional who owns an off-road fabrication shop (builds ultra4 buggies) and when my axle bent the tube seperated from the center section pulling the weld bead clean off the cast. Some weld is probably better than no weld for all but the worst oops moments though, but if not done correctly its just false security in my opinion. Long story short circle welding the tubes is a great idea but don't bother unless you can do it correctly

[Will]

Understood, I'm familiar with welding and know cast can be tricky, I'll call around and see if I can find someone relatively close that is more familiar with the cast.
Thanks

[azracer]

Congratulations on the shocks! You won't be disappointed. When it comes to welding the tubes to the center sections, the rear is relatively easier, the front has seals inside right where you're welding and if you put too much heat into the axle you'll need to replace them which requires pulling the carrier. The most correct way to weld to cast requires you to pre and post heat the weld effected area and wrap it in a welding blanket to cool slowly. It should also be impeccably clean (which is difficult on porous cast) and done with rod that has high nickel content. Either tig or stick are preferable. You could just mig it on there and cross your fingers but cast becomes brittle in the weld zone done that way and if you take a hard hit the weld bead will simply snap off from the cast. My first trussed axle was with the Carli truss and was mig'd by a professional who owns an off-road fabrication shop (builds ultra4 buggies) and when my axle bent the tube seperated from the center section pulling the weld bead clean off the cast. Some weld is probably better than no weld for all but the worst oops moments though, but if not done correctly its just false security in my opinion. Long story short circle welding the tubes is a great idea but don't bother unless you can do it correctly

X2 and a very good explanation!

[Colibri]

Cool, what did you end up ordering for shocks?

[azracer]

Something else to consider is the clicker adjuster as I call it. I have these on the front and like them quite a bit. Because I run lower nitrogen pressures these have a great deal of range adjustment and make a large difference on compression stiffness. I play around with nitrogen pressures quite a bit less because these adjusters work so well. I think this is the best feature of my front shock setup as it lets me dial in more compression resistance without any real work. The IBP would be an awesome option but not if I can't keep my short body 12" travel shock, even though the longer travel has given me quite a bit of grief in the custom setup department.

The clicker adjuster with lower nitrogen pressures let a stage 3 be dialed up to a stage 4.75 or even a bit higher when you need the extra compression control. With the lower nitrogen pressure I run it is more like a 2.5 to a 4.0 in reality but is still a huge improvement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29T9-xGy380



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[Will]

This is what's on the receipt, recommended by Don...

THUREN KING 2.5 REMOTE CUSTOM SHOCK PACKAGE-4TH GEN PW, STOCK COILS/LEAFS, +350 REAR WEIGHT, 2.5X10FT STAGE 3HSS, 2.5X12 SHORTY STAGE 2HSS, MEDR-FT/HR-RR, STAINLESS SHAFTS ALL SHOCKS, POWDERCOATED TOWER KIT WITH STAINLESS RESI MOUNTS
HIGH PERFORMANCE FRONT BOOGIE BUMPS - KP-COMPLETE BOLT ON FRONT KIT

[Will]

Stainless shafts, I'm close to the gulf and around salt water....

[azracer]

Nice you going to love them! That should put a nice dent in anyone's wallet though!

If yours droops as well as mine does... the locker, ABS and brake lines will be way to short with the 12" travel shocks. Check to be sure before you put it on a lift or get it air born like 2 Wagons does. A front truss is in your future for sure.

[Will]

Yep, I'm already feeling the addiction... I've actually had this truck off the ground before I know what I know now so it can only get better! Might take me a year to build but I'm heading in that direction.

[2wagons1driveway]

Cool, what did you end up ordering for shocks?

the whole reason we weld the tubes is to not allow the tube to "push" into the diff after it's trussed.

Picture the truss and picture the weak point as we all know now being the long tube it still wants to push up but instead it breaks the plug welds and pushes inwards a bit. FYI congrats on the new kings they will take awhile to build! But well worth it! Control is addicting




Sent from Canada

[Will]

Received the Boogies today but I'm going to try not to install them until I can do it all at once.

[2wagons1driveway]

Received the Boogies today but I'm going to try not to install them until I can do it all at once.

you want to wait for shocks or do you have front and rears to put on?


Sent from Canada

[azracer]

Just put them on!

You know that you really want to see what they can "really do" and you have shocks now that "really do" suck and will put them to the test with little or no effort or speed. Just don't push the limits enough to bend an axle is all.

Not only will you get to see what the bumps do at far lower and less harsh conditions but you will really see the difference between bottoming control and axle control that good shocks can give you. You will get a feel for the difference between the performance and control that good shocks provide and the protection that boogie bumps provide. I really wish I had done that because I have always run Hydro bumps and would have liked to feel them by themselves!

[Will]

Haha, I will before the the Kings get here.

[Will]

I planned to changed my bumper our yesterday but I dont have any air tools and there's a couple of bolts that a right angle impact would be nice to have. I placed an order for one of these and going to try it out. Ingersoll Rand W5350 1/2" 20v impact right angle wrench http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am ... 5350/w5350

[2wagons1driveway]

The chord less impacts have come along way in last three years it's pretty amazing. I'm still an air tool
Guy just because their quieter (if you buy quiet series) and usually had a lot
More jam. However getting a good compressor to feed them is $$$$$ so chord less is a good way to go!


Sent from Canada

[Will]

Not to mention the portability of it

[Stickman]

A good set of universal joint impact sockets are very nice also. We got some Pittsburgh ones from harbor freight and they are awesome.

[Will]

A good set of universal joint impact sockets are very nice also. We got some Pittsburgh ones from harbor freight and they are awesome.

I have metric and standard deep wells. Didn't think about the swivel joints. Thanks, I'm sure I'll pick some up. My metric set is the same as yours, Pitts, from Harbor Freight and I haven't had any trouble out of them.

[Will]

It's officially mine, all mine, I have the title! Now I can elsewhere....