Power Wagon Registry

I have a NOCO GB-70, a second one. The first one I kept in the truck year round, recharged every six months, About a few months after it went out of warranty it would not charge. Spent about $50 on the 56W power adaptor and did nothing. NOCO will replace boosters out of warranty for about 50% off t...

I have a NOCO GB-70, a second one. The first one I kept in the truck year round, recharged every six months, About a few months after it went out of warranty it would not charge. Spent about $50 on the 56W power adaptor and did nothing. NOCO will replace boosters out of warranty for about 50% off th...

Hard to say if there are real performance gains. Relatively inexpensive, so all you have to lose is the investment of money to buy it and time to install it.

EMF. CJC Off Road appears to be in stock. Pay attention to install instructions. EMF has some You Tube videos on installation too, especially the tightening of the forcing cone, or whatever it's called, is pretty important. The OE ball joints were fine, but I replaced them anyway. It's an all day jo...

Now I have to clean that plug/switch lead. But for now the rope is spooled up and tucked away. Well I forgot to mention to keep tension on the cable or might end up with bird nest, like on a fishing reel. Sounds like it didn't. If it's not the remote or receptacle, then likely culprit in the soleno...

Jumper cable from a 12v battery, attach jumper between Fi and A or F2 and A on motor case. Attach neg cable from battery to motor case and touch positive to either F1 or F2 that isn't jumped to terminal A. I can't recall which F terminal is fwd or rev.

EMF are rebuildable too. Would be the last ball joints installed. OEM are pretty good too if price point is a consideration. Assume this is a DIY chore. The last time I had ball joints replaced on a 2500 'Burb was $900 parts and labor, 15 years ago. I bet it's significantly more today.

1 faulty seal ok, but 4 in a row? Assuming it was installed correctly, has the shaft been examined to see if it is out of round? Is the leak between the shaft and seal or the seal and the case? It doesn't take much to crack these aluminum TCs.

The OEM unit is pretty good in its own right. If you go with a Thuren kit you can add on a King stabilizer. Are you having issues that would require a dual stabilizer? I can't comment on RC today, but I ran their shocks and stabilizer on a Ramcharger back the early 80s and they may have been the cat...

Colibri wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 28, 2020 1:16 pm

Driveshaftspecialist.com

I got their HD aluminum rear shaft and it makes the factory part look like a cheap knockoff toy.

I''ve been looking at these. What size did you go with and does it clear the rearward most crossmember?

If towing heavy need to run a WDH unless you're bagged. Are you still running the OE track bars? Tire pressures?

OffroadTreks wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:51 pm

I don't think under $500 and "BEST" are going to work out together.

The JBA Stainless is $549.00 at best and those are shorties. I wouldn't bother with shorties. American Racing Long Tubes is all I'd look at.

ARH seconded.

Is everything on the track bar still torqued to specs? If the jan nut came loose on frame end, then it very well be the track bar. Unfortunately, the bar has to come out to check the jam nut, or at least does on my wagon.

I would be surprised if the assembly line is using waste/burnt fluid. Since it's flushed, I'd watch PS pump and see what happens. The pump fails if the fluid leaks out, pump or bearings fail, or wrong type of fluid.

ACL123 wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 29, 2020 8:50 pm

Are these OE for our trucks? Any feedback on them would be appreciated.

Unknown.

or go with the TRX?

Ram Website has a marketing blitz film for the TRX; pretty cool. I'm betting at least $90-100K. Ford's F-150 Shelby Cobra 770HP Supercharged starts at 110K plus!

Link in the owner's site in the recall section near bottom of page or https://www.chrysler.com/webselfservice/fcanorth/VinInputForm.jsp . Warranty typically doesn't cover pads and rotors, so they could be trying to play that game. If the caliper seized and trashed the pads and rotor they should be i...

Depends on trim level, color, and which options you have; sun roof, power rear sliding window, and home link. I would suggest looking on EBay. Most listings have the OEM part number. Or check with dealer parts, give them the VIN, and they should be able find the correct console. The LEDs suck, the e...

RustyPW wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 8:53 am

Bill2014 wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 7:51 am

The digital copy takes up much less space - and is searchable by keyword

Yeah, but can you put sticky notes on the pages.

You can, to a degree, with Adobe Reader DC comment function.

Digital version available on Ram owners' Web site. But yeah, that owners' guide should have came with the truck. The manual has to be bought, they were about $50 four years ago.

No fuse or relay, then could be the Total Integrated Power Module (TIPM). If it is, it is not not a cheap fix. You should be able to find the pin out on the Web and find the wire to the headlight and diagnose. The TIPM is not clear to me because under the PCM (or IPM) is where all the harnesses conn...

I use a 2.5 in. Gen-Y. 6 in. drop/3 in. raise or flip for opposite. 3k tongue/21K tow. Cheap is subjective. The Gen-Ys aren't cheap in my book, but it's the last hitch I'll ever buy.

The digital age has all but made printed material obsolete.

Permatex or 3M kit. I've never had one detach unless I knocked it off. Preparation of surfaces are key.