Rear Output Shaft Seal/Dust Cover

[trk4sale]

I noticed that the dust cover is cracked and figured I ought to replace it before the seal fails. Seems like a relatively easy job, but I wanted to check and see if any one has done it and if there are any tips or tricks I should know.

Slip Yoke.jpg (32.71 KiB) Viewed 1832 times

[Colibri]

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3376&start=200

Cover it in my build thread.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Miller-9037-DODG ... 2293591763

This is a great deal on the miller/mopar seal driver for this specific seal

[Retired BLM Rig]

Mark the driveshaft before you remove it from the diff. I'm convinced that it's balanced as an assembly at the factory. (I might be wrong, but it couldn't hurt)

[trk4sale]

"This is a great deal on the miller/mopar seal driver for this specific seal"
The $20.00 shipping is a bit hard to take. I probably will make something to use.
Amazon has a decent price on a SKF seal
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... KJY8&psc=1

[Colibri]

Yes, I meant to post the one that was 36$ and free shipping. Either way it’s not completely necessary but will make your life infinitely easier. And stock new price is over 80$ if I remember correctly. I’ve never found any regular seal drivers that will work on this one, hence the existence of a special tool in the first place. It’s easy to damage without the proper driver, so good luck and be careful sir

[DamageWagon]

I don’t think I used a seal driver. Seal was pretty easy to remove and install. No need to mark the driveshaft to the transfer case, unbolt from the axle and slide it out of the t case and you’ll have access to the seal. Remember to put the drain hole in the seal pointed down.

Do all of this with the truck pointed nose-down to keep fluid from draining out

[RustyPW]

I've used 3/4" drive sockets to install seals like this. Find the socket big enough to fit over the seal, and tap into place.

[trk4sale]

I saw on You Tube somebody used an ABS pipe cap to drive the seal in. Don't have any 3/4 " drive sockets, but I can always do what I did when changing out my steering box- went to Harbor Cheapo Tools, bought the big socket set, used the one socket I needed, then returned the set.
I have also used a piece of galvanized chain link fence post to drive in seals and help remove ball joints.

[trk4sale]

I replaced the seal/dust shield yesterday, not too hard other than climbing under the truck a bunch. Before I put the new seal in I spent some time looking for something to use as a plug in case the rear drive shaft fails and has to be removed. Ultimately I found that a butane can I refill lighters with is the perfect size (2.285"dia) I figure when it's empty I will cut off the end and keep it in the truck for emergency use.

I did buy the official seal driver on Ebay so it was pretty easy inserting the new seal.

If anybody else is thinking of replacing the seal I'll be happy to loan out the driver, easy enough to send it wherever, just cover the postage charges.
Not sure why my pictures end up sideways