This information will be useless for those of you with shiny new trucks and lifetime warranties, but maybe it will be helpful for another DIY'er out there.
My steering box pitman shaft seal has been seeping for a couple years, but lately it had increased to a drip, so it was time to fix it.
The factory service manual procedure involves pulling the pitman shaft out of the box, but I wanted to try doing it the old school way.
Disassembly: I started by removing the pitman arm from the steering box. Use a 1-5/16" socket to loosen the nut, then leave the nut on the end of the shaft to catch the arm when it pops loose with the puller.
The next item to remove is the dust seal. It's not the main oil seal, just a thin single lip dust seal. I used my Lisle seal puller to pop it out. I had to grind a red cleatus hair off the tip of the puller to get it to slip between the shaft and the seal and then it popped it right out.
The next item is a snap ring that doesn't quite come out. Oh it would come out fine if the pitman shaft wasn't in the way, but that was what I wanted to avoid. I compressed the snap ring with pliers and then used a hook tool on the opposite side to get it out at an angle. Once it was out I removed a black cleatus hair of material from the inside of the ears and now it fits perfect between the housing and the shaft.
Above the snap ring is a washer that usually falls out on its own, then the main oil seal. Here's the old school secret for getting the seal out without getting oil all over yourself in the process. Position a oil drain bucket right under the steering box, as close as you can get it, to avoid splash, then start the engine and turn the steering wheel all the way to left and hold it. The pressure in the steering box will blow the seal out of the housing into the bucket. Shut off the engine and let the fluid drain out while you grab your new parts to put in.
Reassembly: Clean up the housing bore, put a little grease on the inside lip of the new seal and then slip it up onto the shaft. Put the steel washer over the seal and use a long thin punch and hammer to gently and evenly tap the seal up into the housing, hitting on the steel washer not the seal. Install the snap ring, dust seal and pitman arm. Torque the nut to 185 ft. lbs. and refill the P/S fluid reservoir. Start the engine for 5 seconds and shut it off. Add more fluid, do this a couple times until all the air is out of the system. Jack up the front end, start the engine and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock to bleed out any last pockets of air. Let the jack down, check the fluid level and DONE!
Actually before I refilled my system I removed the reservoir from my pump to clean it out. There's a fine mesh nylon screen filter inside the reservoir that can get clogged up with sediment over time. Mine was pretty bad, but now it's nice and clean with fresh fluid and no more leak!
Well that's it for this episode, tune in next time when I'll be fixing the next thing that breaks on the old Retired BLM Rig.
How To Replace A Leaking Pitman/Sector Shaft Seal
- Retired BLM Rig
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How To Replace A Leaking Pitman/Sector Shaft Seal
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
- Reloaderguy
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Re: How To Replace A Leaking Pitman/Sector Shaft Seal
Excellent, thanks for posting. Just for clarification, this is the smaller pre '09 steering box, correct?
- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: How To Replace A Leaking Pitman/Sector Shaft Seal
Yes, but this procedure works on most all recirculating ball type steering boxes, I've used it on Ford's and Chevy's in the past as well.Reloaderguy wrote: ↑Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:44 amJust for clarification, this is the smaller pre '09 steering box, correct?
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
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Re: How To Replace A Leaking Pitman/Sector Shaft Seal
Sweet writeup man, I love knowing the easy way. I always appreciate that you put the time into even simple write ups
Re: How To Replace A Leaking Pitman/Sector Shaft Seal
thankyou...excellent work
Re: How To Replace A Leaking Pitman/Sector Shaft Seal
Solid gold sir! As always thanks for your contributions!
Central Texas and Houston area
2009 5.7 auto quadcab
Carli 3” coils deaver leafs 3” kings with 4 tube bypass rear and fr/rr hydro bumps
Howe steering pump and gear with hydraulic ram assist
Custom tube bumpers and white knuckle sliders
Creative fab trussed axle. rem polished and cryoed 5.13 gears with arb lockers fr/rr
Sharadon stage 2 545rfe with 3000 stall edge converter
Lots of other stuff lol
2009 5.7 auto quadcab
Carli 3” coils deaver leafs 3” kings with 4 tube bypass rear and fr/rr hydro bumps
Howe steering pump and gear with hydraulic ram assist
Custom tube bumpers and white knuckle sliders
Creative fab trussed axle. rem polished and cryoed 5.13 gears with arb lockers fr/rr
Sharadon stage 2 545rfe with 3000 stall edge converter
Lots of other stuff lol