Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
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Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
I am thinking of replacing the exhaust manifold bolts/studs before they break. The shop manual says to remove exhaust manifold you need to lift the engine up.
I would like to remove the old bolts and put in new one without removing the manifold and gasket. Does anyone know if this can be done without lifting the engine up?
I would like to remove the old bolts and put in new one without removing the manifold and gasket. Does anyone know if this can be done without lifting the engine up?
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
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Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
My 2011 is probably identical to yours, they didn’t really change much on the engine. I easily did mine without lifting the engine. Some bolts you have to get from underneath but they’re all very accessible. I ordered some new hardware to swap them out at M8x1.25-45mm. That’s the stock length but they have about a 5mm unthreaded lead-in. I have ditched the heat shields so I can use class 10.9 fasteners
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
Hello DamageWagon,DamageWagon wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:14 pmMy 2011 is probably identical to yours, they didn’t really change much on the engine. I easily did mine without lifting the engine. Some bolts you have to get from underneath but they’re all very accessible. I ordered some new hardware to swap them out at M8x1.25-45mm. That’s the stock length but they have about a 5mm unthreaded lead-in. I have ditched the heat shields so I can use class 10.9 fasteners
Thanks for your input. Based on all the google searching I've done it seems that the 4th Gen trucks don't require lifting the engine like the 3rd gens do but I am hoping there's a way to not have to lift it.
Anyone with an 05-08 that can chime in?
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
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Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
You should be able to see if the going to work or not. Pull the fender liners and you should have a good view of everything.
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
Did you have to use longer bolts than M8x1.25-45mm where the studs were the bottom looks longer?DamageWagon wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:14 pmMy 2011 is probably identical to yours, they didn’t really change much on the engine. I easily did mine without lifting the engine. Some bolts you have to get from underneath but they’re all very accessible. I ordered some new hardware to swap them out at M8x1.25-45mm. That’s the stock length but they have about a 5mm unthreaded lead-in. I have ditched the heat shields so I can use class 10.9 fasteners
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
I took a look and the passenger side header is very close to the frame the only potential problem I see is not being able to pull the bolts all the way out before they make contact. I may have to just by the hardware and give it a try and return it if they won't come out. Worst case I could pull the cylinder head off but that adds a lot of extra work.DamageWagon wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2018 6:28 pmYou should be able to see if the going to work or not. Pull the fender liners and you should have a good view of everything.
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
I’ve done manifolds on my 3rd gen, you can do the bolts without lifting the engine. It’s a little tedious but not terrible. If you do new hardware / SRT bolts etc. then you won’t be able to retain the heat shields, but I don’t think they do much anyway.
Use high temp antisieze
You won’t be able to get a torque wrench on several fasteners
Take the front wheels off and pull the fender liners
Use high temp antisieze
You won’t be able to get a torque wrench on several fasteners
Take the front wheels off and pull the fender liners
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2009 5.7 auto quadcab
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Howe steering pump and gear with hydraulic ram assist
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
^^^What he said.^^^Colibri wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2018 7:11 pmI’ve done manifolds on my 3rd gen, you can do the bolts without lifting the engine. It’s a little tedious but not terrible. If you do new hardware / SRT bolts etc. then you won’t be able to retain the heat shields, but I don’t think they do much anyway.
Use high temp antisieze
You won’t be able to get a torque wrench on several fasteners
Take the front wheels off and pull the fender liners
Holler if you need a hand, I have lots of tight access specialty tools and I’m only a few miles away.
Personally, I would resist the urge to use special high-strength bolts due to difficulty in drilling and extracting if they break in the future. Back in the 90s Ford used stainless alloy exhaust manifold bolts and they were almost impossible to remove.
I thought they would’ve replace the bolts when they did your engine last year. At least the bolts should come out easier after that.
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
If your going that far you should just do headers prolly the same amount of pain in the ass lol. My tip is be very gentle taking the old bolts out I had one break off in the head
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
As stated above, do not need to lift the engine to do either side. I've done both exhaust manifold gaskets and they are not bad. The passenger side is a ton harder than the drivers as the engine is closer to the frame rail on that side but not too bad. I just did the exhaust manifold gasket on the drivers side of my PW 2 weeks ago and it was under 2 hrs from start of jacking the truck up to remove the tire, to torquing the wheel back on. Now the passenger side sucked as it had multiple broken bolts that had to be extracted. That was quite a few more hours to replace the gasket.
Personally I would replace the gaskets because you are already there anyway, so why not? It's not that much harder to remove the down pipe and pull the manifold to clean up the mating surfaces and put in a new gasket, than it is to replace the bolts.
Personally I would replace the gaskets because you are already there anyway, so why not? It's not that much harder to remove the down pipe and pull the manifold to clean up the mating surfaces and put in a new gasket, than it is to replace the bolts.
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2002 Dodge Ram 1500 ST 4x4 Quad Cab 4.7L Bright Silver, HO Cams, 12,000 lbs Winch mounted behind bumper, 4.56's, 2500 factory tow hooks, 35x12.50 Toyo MT's, Air-Lift Ride Control bags, homemade hidden ball gooseneck hitch.
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Re: Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold Removal Quesiton
before you start on it look at your passenger side motor mount. Mine was so bad that the bottom of the manifold was rubbing on the top of the frame from it sagging. I replaced the rubber insert and then ended up with about 1" clearence between bottom of manifold and the top of the frame. You can look thru the passenger side wheel well and see your clearence
It is MUCH easier to do the motor mount with the manifold out of the way.
And if you do have broken studs that are flush with the head, weld a washer on first and then a nut - found that tip online somewhere and it works better than just welding a nut on.
While your there, are your transmission cooler lines leaking yet too up by the radiator?
It is MUCH easier to do the motor mount with the manifold out of the way.
And if you do have broken studs that are flush with the head, weld a washer on first and then a nut - found that tip online somewhere and it works better than just welding a nut on.
While your there, are your transmission cooler lines leaking yet too up by the radiator?
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