Dodge Off Road brand reliability

[djgaston]

I'm not 100% sure, I know there have been issues getting our arms to work with Amp steps but I don't think anybody has asked about using them with White Knuckle sliders. I'll try to look some pics up and see. It's hard to make all of this stuff fit together sometimes, but if there is a way to do it we'll be glad to adjust our long arms as long as it doesn't affect the geometry or quality.

I would think it would be easier to cut the front mount on the sliders and re-do those to make it work, rather than change your frame mount. Looking at the pictures on your site, it looks like they mount to the frame in the same spot. So I am thinking something will have to be done no doubt.

Yeah that actually uses the same bolt hole as our indexing key, so that's a no-go. But if their mount moved forward up into the body mount, or back about 8", it would work no problem.

[coder]

Dang guys, I just got on here to look up a bypass diagram and saw this thread because MikeKey tagged me. I typed out a really lengthy reply addressing everything and went to post it, the forum locked up and I lost the whole text. So I'll do a much shorter version.

Coder, I don't know what the deal was with us not replying to your emails but I can tell what the problem with the diff cover is from looking at the pic. We didn't make it. That one is from back when we ordered them from another company (you probably know who) and then all I did was drill the hole for the drain plug, weld it in, weld the DOR tag on it, and powder coat it. We stopped using those companies (there are two of them and they are in Arizona) because of poor weld quality and poor machining, but now we make the diff covers here and have not had a single issue with any of them since we started doing them ourselves. I just didn't have the equipment back then. Back in those days, I was powder coating with a Harbor Freight gun and a free oven I got from an appliance store in town, but I did it for free and there was no warranty on the powdercoat. The leak is from a bad weld that we didn't do, but it's still a DOR product as far as you are concerned and I'll make it right. I can either fix it, recoat it (we have a real powder coating setup now haha), and ship it back to you for free, or I can give you store credit if you don't want it back. And, even though this is outside of what we would normally do, I'll refund you $250 from my personal Paypal account if you just don't want anything to do with the other options. I'm not going to have someone that unhappy after all this time. Give us a call or send an email, or PM me your contact info and I'll get you taken care of. I'm sorry for the issue with your diff cover and I wish I had seen the email(s) before because I would have taken care of it then.

Hello Danny,

I appreciate that you are willing make it right my preference would be to get the $250 paypal credit you indicated above. I've IM you my email address and will respond to this thread with the outcome so the others can see that you stand behind your products.

[nts007]

Judging by the few pictures I have seen, it looks like the front mounts for the White Knuckle sliders are utilizing the same realestate as the long arm 4-link frame mounts. Has this already been confirmed?

I'm not 100% sure, I know there have been issues getting our arms to work with Amp steps but I don't think anybody has asked about using them with White Knuckle sliders. I'll try to look some pics up and see. It's hard to make all of this stuff fit together sometimes, but if there is a way to do it we'll be glad to adjust our long arms as long as it doesn't affect the geometry or quality.

The front brace that runs to the frame from the sliders will be smack in the road of the long arms. I did my long arms first. And had to stop my slider build until I find a way to clear that and have the strength on the slider. So yes they interfere

[RustyPW]

I'm not 100% sure, I know there have been issues getting our arms to work with Amp steps but I don't think anybody has asked about using them with White Knuckle sliders. I'll try to look some pics up and see. It's hard to make all of this stuff fit together sometimes, but if there is a way to do it we'll be glad to adjust our long arms as long as it doesn't affect the geometry or quality.

I would think it would be easier to cut the front mount on the sliders and re-do those to make it work, rather than change your frame mount. Looking at the pictures on your site, it looks like they mount to the frame in the same spot. So I am thinking something will have to be done no doubt.

I have a 3G with the Mopar RockRails. Yeah the front mount is in the way of any long arm kit that I seen. From what I seen with the 4G'g with the White Knuckle's. It's the same thing. That's the reason I've never done a long arm on my PW.

[coder]

Dang guys, I just got on here to look up a bypass diagram and saw this thread because MikeKey tagged me. I typed out a really lengthy reply addressing everything and went to post it, the forum locked up and I lost the whole text. So I'll do a much shorter version.

Coder, I don't know what the deal was with us not replying to your emails but I can tell what the problem with the diff cover is from looking at the pic. We didn't make it. That one is from back when we ordered them from another company (you probably know who) and then all I did was drill the hole for the drain plug, weld it in, weld the DOR tag on it, and powder coat it. We stopped using those companies (there are two of them and they are in Arizona) because of poor weld quality and poor machining, but now we make the diff covers here and have not had a single issue with any of them since we started doing them ourselves. I just didn't have the equipment back then. Back in those days, I was powder coating with a Harbor Freight gun and a free oven I got from an appliance store in town, but I did it for free and there was no warranty on the powdercoat. The leak is from a bad weld that we didn't do, but it's still a DOR product as far as you are concerned and I'll make it right. I can either fix it, recoat it (we have a real powder coating setup now haha), and ship it back to you for free, or I can give you store credit if you don't want it back. And, even though this is outside of what we would normally do, I'll refund you $250 from my personal Paypal account if you just don't want anything to do with the other options. I'm not going to have someone that unhappy after all this time. Give us a call or send an email, or PM me your contact info and I'll get you taken care of. I'm sorry for the issue with your diff cover and I wish I had seen the email(s) before because I would have taken care of it then.

Hello Danny,

I appreciate that you are willing make it right my preference would be to get the $250 paypal credit you indicated above. I've IM you my email address and will respond to this thread with the outcome so the others can see that you stand behind your products.

I wanted to let everyone know that I did get a full refund from Danny for my defective diff cover. At least from my perspective he does stand behind his products and did make it right.

[OffroadTreks]

[DocPaulo]

Got his brace last year and they were well made and stout...

[OffroadTreks]

I was really surprised how well the brace tightens up steering feel. Very worthwhile.

[djgaston]

I was really surprised how well the brace tightens up steering feel. Very worthwhile.

I am still mad about yours going out with D shaped holes. We had a full staff meeting over that yesterday and two of my guys came up with a way to prevent that in the future. In my opinion, and the way I always did things when I made everything, you just check everything over really well everytime you touch it. I have a keen eye for things that aren't right - I've always been that way. So how something like that gets past at least four people, I have no idea, other than everyone's give-a-damn being busted. Which is not common for the guys I have here. I did fire a kid a few weeks ago who could have been part of the problem, but he wouldn't have been the only one. Anyway, we're setting up a room specifically for test-fitting products before they get powdercoated. We've done that at the welding stage and then again in packaging but it hasn't been systematic, and with as much stuff as we have going through there it's easy to see how something could get missed. Now there is a whole new process where each part has all the bolt holes checked with the hardware that goes in that hole, all the threaded stuff gets checked to make sure the threads aren't bad, etc. It will be more work and I wish it wasn't necessary but there just isn't any excuse for the holes being D shaped, I have a 50 ton ironworker here that we punch holes out with and it takes about 20 seconds to do the entire brace after the parts come off the CNC table. It's not like it's hard to make them perfect if the CNC table had a hiccup. Anyway, that's what we're doing to correct the issue and make sure it doesn't happen again. If any of our products have an issue, we'll take care of it for the life of the product. coder's diff cover was from 2013 and that's been resolved now in 2018. The fastest way to handle anything is to call us and talk to John, Chris, Nick, Spencer, Ryan, or myself.

[djgaston]

Got his brace last year and they were well made and stout...

Thank you!

[djgaston]

I wanted to let everyone know that I did get a full refund from Danny for my defective diff cover. At least from my perspective he does stand behind his products and did make it right.

Thank you sir!

[djgaston]

On the sliders and long arm conversation above, keep in mind that our 3rd/4th gen long arms are not the same as our 5th gen (or what some call 4.5 gen) long arms. The 3G/4G long arms bolt up further back, use a larger bracket, and I don't believe they will work with the White Knuckle sliders. However we did just revamp our upper long arms and there is a chance they would work, you guys might be able to tell from the pics. These arms clear the body mount and should clear the slider mount at some lift height, I just don't know how much would be needed for it to work.

3G 4G arms

Now on the 5th gen arms (4.5 gen) the long arms are totally different and the bracket mounts where the White Knuckle mounts, same bolt hole. If that mount could be moved back 8", there would be zero issues as that would put the slider mount behind the long arm bracket. *note this picture is of the older bend profile, the latest bend profile has the upper and lower arms bent slightly different with cleaner clevis mount gussets - this is on my diesel and is the first set we made a long time ago. Bracket placement is the same.

5G arms

[Reloaderguy]

I was really surprised how well the brace tightens up steering feel. Very worthwhile.

I am still mad about yours going out with D shaped holes. We had a full staff meeting over that yesterday and two of my guys came up with a way to prevent that in the future. In my opinion, and the way I always did things when I made everything, you just check everything over really well everytime you touch it. I have a keen eye for things that aren't right - I've always been that way. So how something like that gets past at least four people, I have no idea, other than everyone's give-a-damn being busted. Which is not common for the guys I have here. I did fire a kid a few weeks ago who could have been part of the problem, but he wouldn't have been the only one. Anyway, we're setting up a room specifically for test-fitting products before they get powdercoated. We've done that at the welding stage and then again in packaging but it hasn't been systematic, and with as much stuff as we have going through there it's easy to see how something could get missed. Now there is a whole new process where each part has all the bolt holes checked with the hardware that goes in that hole, all the threaded stuff gets checked to make sure the threads aren't bad, etc. It will be more work and I wish it wasn't necessary but there just isn't any excuse for the holes being D shaped, I have a 50 ton ironworker here that we punch holes out with and it takes about 20 seconds to do the entire brace after the parts come off the CNC table. It's not like it's hard to make them perfect if the CNC table had a hiccup. Anyway, that's what we're doing to correct the issue and make sure it doesn't happen again. If any of our products have an issue, we'll take care of it for the life of the product. coder's diff cover was from 2013 and that's been resolved now in 2018. The fastest way to handle anything is to call us and talk to John, Chris, Nick, Spencer, Ryan, or myself.

Human error is almost uncontrollable. A proof jig with dimensioned locating pins is the answer. You take the finished work and set it into the jig, if the piece sets on, the holes and fitment are correct. You shouldn't need to hand fit every bolt.

[FordyceCreekTrail]

Having a vendor come in and work though issues on a forum? Its NEVER happened before that I have witnessed. The credibility from this thread for the vendor is significant to me in considering future purchases.

[RustyPW]

Having a vendor come in and work though issues on a forum? Its NEVER happened before that I have witnessed. The credibility from this thread for the vendor is significant to me in considering future purchases.

The 370Z forum. Most of the vendors there will bend over backwards to help. Of course they have about 150,000 members too.

[djgaston]

Having a vendor come in and work though issues on a forum? Its NEVER happened before that I have witnessed. The credibility from this thread for the vendor is significant to me in considering future purchases.

The 370Z forum. Most of the vendors there will bend over backwards to help. Of course they have about 150,000 members too.

I'm glad to help anytime. It doesn't have anything to do with how many members there are or anything like that; I've been on here for a few years and been on Dodge forums since like 2002 or 2003. I don't have as much free time as I used to for forums, but I'm always available if anybody has a question or needs help with something.